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一些你可能喜歡讀的書 理論 CA Marchaj 的帆船理論與實踐 1964年 CA Marchaj 的航行空氣流體動力學 1979年 CA Marchaj 的風帆表演 1996年 弗蘭克·貝思韋特（Frank Bethwaite）的高性能帆船 2010（第二版） 實踐 Paul Elvstrom的專家小艇賽車 1963年 斯圖爾特沃克的風與戰略 1973年 Christopher Caswell 和 David Ullman 的冠軍小艇帆船賽 1978年 布魯斯·班克斯 / 迪克·肯尼的《看帆》 1979年 勝利 - Stuart Walker 的競爭心理學 1980年 Stuart Walker 1981 年的高級賽車戰術 Eric Twiname 的航海、比賽和勝利 1982年 這是 Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 的船調速度 1984年 揚帆取勝系列 - 勞裡·史密斯 (Lawrie Smith) 的小艇舵 1983年 - David Houghton 的 Wind Strategy 1984年 - 由 Lawrie Smith 調整您的小艇 1985年 - 羅德尼帕蒂森/蒂姆戴維森的船速 1986年 Jim Saltonstall 的 RYA 比賽訓練手冊 1983年 感謝 Brian Outram（澳大利亞）的閱讀清單 讓我知道你最喜歡的書，以便我可以將它們添加到列表中

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Enjoy.

一些你可能喜歡讀的書 理論 CA Marchaj 的帆船理論與實踐 1964年 CA Marchaj 的航行空氣流體動力學 1979年 CA Marchaj 的風帆表演 1996年 弗蘭克·貝思韋特（Frank Bethwaite）的高性能帆船 2010（第二版） 實踐 Paul Elvstrom的專家小艇賽車 1963年 斯圖爾特沃克的風與戰略 1973年 Christopher Caswell 和 David Ullman 的冠軍小艇帆船賽 1978年 布魯斯·班克斯 / 迪克·肯尼的《看帆》 1979年 勝利 - Stuart Walker 的競爭心理學 1980年 Stuart Walker 1981 年的高級賽車戰術 Eric Twiname 的航海、比賽和勝利 1982年 這是 Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 的船調速度 1984年 揚帆取勝系列 - 勞裡·史密斯 (Lawrie Smith) 的小艇舵 1983年 - David Houghton 的 Wind Strategy 1984年 - 由 Lawrie Smith 調整您的小艇 1985年 - 羅德尼帕蒂森/蒂姆戴維森的船速 1986年 Jim Saltonstall 的 RYA 比賽訓練手冊 1983年 感謝 Brian Outram（澳大利亞）的閱讀清單 讓我知道你最喜歡的書，以便我可以將它們添加到列表中

船隻維修 你需要知道的 用絕緣泡沫保護你的鰭球和舵 把你的帆裝在船具箱裡 檢查線條是否磨損或磨損 如果您的船體是密封的，請安裝一個呼吸浴缸 內外航行後擦乾你的船 離開甲板補丁通風 如果有鹽水進入，請沖洗船的內部 用溫和的肥皂水清潔船體 細節 當您存放、運輸和比賽您的船時，要保持您的船光亮如新，需要小心和注意。這裡有一些想法可以幫助您保護您的投資。 使用可以從任何五金店廉價購買的管道絕緣泡沫來保護您的鰭球和舵。將其放在尾翼和方向舵的前緣和後緣以及燈泡周圍。這樣你就可以避免不小心弄碎精緻的邊緣。 如果您在長途旅行中總是將帆放在船帆箱中，並且在比賽結束後用毛巾擦拭帆以去除水和痕跡，並確保它們在存放在箱子中超過一天之前乾燥。記住要鬆開所有張緊裝置。 如果您沒有鑽機箱，請考慮使用鑽機包。 我用 Correx 製作了一個非常輕且堅固的鑽機箱，並以 25 英鎊的價格使用了木條和魔術貼。 有關詳細信息，請參見此處。 檢查所有管路並更換任何有磨損跡象的管路。還要查看每個無線電線連接器，確保它們清潔並塗上凡士林或類似物以防止進水。不確定要使用哪些行，請檢查此處 。 如果您的船是密封的，請安裝呼吸管 在其中一個補丁中，可以防止空氣膨脹和收縮，從而在您航行時吸水。如果您有穿過甲板的床單，這將不是問題。 比賽結束後一定要去除一兩個甲板補丁，讓船體通風，避免任何冷凝或水殘留。 如果您在鹽水上航行，請沖洗船的內部 用半杯水去除任何對您的電器有害的鹽分。我曾經在海上比賽中將電動升降器浸泡在船底。當我們完成比賽時，所有的電接頭都不見了。 當涉及到電子產品時，討厭的東西是海水。嘗試將電線和連接器粘在甲板底部以保持乾燥。 最後，如果您在髒水上航行，請用溫和的肥皂水清洗船體。 相關網站的鏈接 布拉德·吉布森 (Brad Gibson) 的頂級秘訣 帆船護理 JG 帆 Sailsetc 維護和設置注意事項 Sailsetc 在鹽水中無線電控制航行 Darren Paulic 在 Facebook RC Sailing Group 上發布了此消息

最後一拍 你需要知道的 為最後一個迎風腿做好計劃 松蓋 留在後面的船和終點之間 快速而自由地航行 細節 船很可能是分散的，沒有太多的收穫或損失，但是作為機會主義者，請始終注意改變遊戲規則的風向轉變，這可能會使您獲得一些位置。它不會經常發生，但是一旦發生，如果您錯過它，您會踢自己。 為最後一拍制定計劃。 在後面的船隻上保持鬆散的掩護，並保持在它們和路線的有利一側之間。 如果後面的船開裂，請鬆開朝向有利一側的船。 如果可能的話，專注於將您的船定位到課程的中心，這樣您就可以利用任何一種方式的突然轉變。 當你遍歷最後一個節拍時，確定終點線的哪一端更近，並瞄準終點。 緊張會導致擠壓和速度損失。 記得呼吸並保持放鬆。 快速而自由地航行，你將保持自己的位置，誰知道呢，也許會在那些注意力不集中、視線從船上移開的人身上獲得幾個位置。

Working up the Alioth. Boat 1 This journey with the Alioth is not about 3d printing but about working up a boat to make it competitive. My objective with the Alioth project was to work the boat up in stages and see how speed developed. There was no speed edge to start with in fact the opposite was true to start with as there were some deficiencies in the set up, but confidence is building as I optimise the boat and I see it get faster. First a caveat on the story below. If I was to do the same again, I would have bought the fins from Juan and fitted them as standard. This would give me a balanced boat. I saw the new fins fitted on a new Alioth at the end of 2024 and I have to say I was totally impressed. Save yourself a lot of trouble and go with Juan for the full boat and foil package. You won't regret it. The kit on the boat Alioth hull in Polymer PLA assembled by Paul Barton. The hull is so strong you can give it a good punch with a fist. Alioth standard fins (these were early generation fins) Winch is RMG fast 290 H1 with 45mm spiral drum Spars are PG 11mm Roller bearing gooseneck on A rig Coreless 20g Digital Metal Gear Dual Bearing Mini Rudder Servo - DFMGD1 BG Sails The Journey Now the boat is close to full race mode. It has been an interesting journey to race a vanilla standard boat, no finishing on the hull just a clear coat or 2 and no sanding. All the rigs were set with the boom band at 150mm from the step which made for a rather ugly look with the booms high and pointing up in the air slightly. The look wasn't improved on the A rig with a prebend in the mast that was more like a kink than a smooth bend and made the boat very hard to set up and sail. It did not have an edge as you can imagine. After the Hampton Court charity day, I trashed the A rig and converted it to a B rig. Then I carefully prebent a new A mast and set it up with 62mm spreaders. The result was an impressive looking BG mainsail which could be set twisty and deep for a chop or flat for a breeze on flat water. There were no hard spots causing any creases in the luff as the mast bend matched the luff curve. The challenge with prebending devices is that you can get an immediate bend at the 600mm point. The bend needs to be progressive and other than bending by hand I know of no device that can achieve this. If anyone knows a way, please advise me how it is done. The A rig mast bend matches the luff curve with no hard spots. This is the limit of bend before the sail breaks down. This Mainsail was first use in 2020 and used for practice over the last year. Pretty impressive duration and still looks superb. All three rigs had 15mm taken off the bottom of the mast to bring the boom band to the deck. It is still 70mm or so from the measuring point on the deck. I needed to shortened the gooseneck housing to lift the kicker adjuster off the deck so I could get my fingers in to adjust. Here you can just see the rake of the fin and mast and how the boom band sits just above the deck. FIngers crossed it will be perfectly balanced The jib attachment point was lowered so the jib boom is as close to the deck as possible. There has been quite a bit of discussion about end plate effects which I do not buy into because as soon the boat heels or gets into chop, the wind is blocked and disturbed by the hull turbulence. However with the jib boom low and the main boom low and parallel to the deck, the centre of effort of the sails is as low as possible. The look is good and a good looking boat is often fast. Time will tell. You cannot achieve a main boom parallel to the deck on the standard Alioth settings. The mast is too upright and if you try raking the mast you just create weather helm. To achieve the mast rake the fin has to be raked back approximately 2 degrees. Using a standard Alioth fin I shaved 2 degrees off the aft edge of the fin where it enters the fin box and added a front edge fillet using Isopon car filler making for a nice secure fit. The 2 degrees was measured with a protractor acquired in my university days. Remember to adjust the bulb angle, 2 degrees up from back to front should do it. Of course if you rake the fin 2 degrees, you move the bulb back 8mm relative to the hull which will effect the position of the correctors. When I first launched with this configuration, I removed the correctors to see how the boat would sit and was delighted to see it sat on its marks, so I added the 70gm of correctors back on the aft side of the fin box, considerably forward of their original position. The final job was to finish the hull. I had two choices. Either sand the 2 pack clear coat on the hull which was recommended by my builder, 3D printed RC Yachts, who is a licensed builder or go the whole hog and take off the clear coat and thin the hull to reduce weight and paint again. I chose the former as it was a lot quicker. The hull finish is superb with just a hint of evidence of the the two hull joins. I filled any groves with Isopon car filler. To sand the hull I started with specialist finishing paper. It has a lubricant coating which prevents clogging and saves a lot of time over wet and dry sanding. The main advantage is you can easily see the high and low spots. I used 320 grade specialist finishing paper and then polished with 1500 grade wet and dry and T cut car polish. The other minor job was to add an additional fairlead for the jib sheet. The boat only came with two fairleads so I reposition one for the B rig and added the 3rd for the C rig. Each jib boom now goes out 85 degrees on the run. I had to drill a new set of holes forward on the jib boom for the A rig. The boat is now in a position for me to check the balance which I am hoping to do tomorrow if I can find an ice free lake. What is left to do Consider the right fin, rudder and bulb shape. My early generations Alioth blades have a reverse camber at the aft end of the chord. I believe the new clades are good. The bulb has the max chord 25% from the front. There are a few choices for the rudder, e.g. John Gill (UK) who makes a nice product as well as a rig tension meter, Robot,Yachts (UK), Dave Creed (UK), Craig Smith (Australia). Need to do some two boat testing before making any decisions on this front. Once I have checked the balance and got the boat footing nicely and we get near some meaningful regattas , I will bend on some new sails as the final stage of optimisation. Of course all this work is combined with as much practise as I can fit in. It is the nut on the end of the tiller that gets the boat round the race course and all the speed in the world won't make up for bad starts and poor tactics. The sheeting set up - Feeding the main and jib sheet through the small guide hole in the upper left of the radio pot holds any loose sheets away from the winch and drum. Here you can see the 3 sheet lead positions. The numbers on the deck were hand drawn and cut. If I was to build another Alioth what would I do In constructing the hull, remove as much redundant plastic as possible and sand the hull well to reduce weight as much as possible before painting. The printed hull is approx 1mm thick. There are two options for sheeting systems. On deck sheeting where the sheets enter the deck behind the foredeck bulkhead. This will keep the boat dry. The other method is under deck sheeting with the deck entry points on the centreline of the boat. They let a tiny amount of water in although nothing significant even in wild weather. The boat does need rinsing inside after salt water sailing. Personally I like the latter set up. Other than that I would do the same as above.

無線電控制 英國 遙控遊艇，邁克·韋斯頓 北威爾士組件店 英國智能絞盤 千位 伺服車間 MX 組件 我們 從這裡開始美國模型遊艇協會 新西蘭 新西蘭無線電遊艇協會

建立 IOM 介紹及費用 2020 年，我在沒有任何經驗的情況下構建了我的第一個 IOM。 在看過 Brad Gibson 製作的插件視頻後，我仔細考慮了構建材料並選擇了玻璃環氧樹脂。 我只是邊走邊買材料，以防萬一我的任務失敗了。 我無法想像結局 結果 成為一個堅強的人 競爭的 在當地比賽中划船。 這是建造的故事。 構建的摘要和成本 為我的構建添加一些顏色。 我過去是小艇水手和遊艇手，過去曾使用過一點玻璃，但與製作模型遊艇沒什麼區別，所以我是第一次建造。 我最大的挑戰 - 有很多可用的信息，但它在互聯網上廣泛傳播。 你可以在這個網站上看到我的來源和每個引用的網站的鏈接。 它始於去年春天的一個 covid 項目，我受到 Brad Gibson 關於構建男性插頭的視頻的啟發，並意識到我可以分階段構建，而無需為整個項目投入資金，以防萬一我在過程中的任何階段被擊敗。 我本可以沿著木質路線走，這會更便宜，但我覺得我可以用環氧樹脂獲得更輕的結果，而且我沒有木材工具，也沒有環氧樹脂。 所以我開始使用 5 分鐘環氧樹脂、幾管 UHU POR、一些紅牌、Brad Gibson 的計劃 22 英鎊、一盒 600x600x100mm 藍色泡沫塑料 76 英鎊、一些輕木砂光板和一些砂紙。 第一階段是用泡沫建造一個公平的船體，令我驚訝的是我做到了。 一旦我到了那個點，我就可以訂購玻璃墊和環氧樹脂，很快我就有了一個男性模具。 在模具上製作船體相對容易，但要注意船頭和船尾的角落，因為您可以獲得空氣間隙。 一個問題是決定上籃。 船隻製造商提供了一些線索，但我不確定是否相信他們。 我知道您需要每平方米總計 10 到 12 盎司的上籃。 在我下一次上籃時，我將嘗試使用 3 層 124g s 玻璃，這比我的第一條船輕一點 一旦船體從模具中拉出，重要的是要有一個夾具來放置船體並用於精確測量總長度，使龍骨和方向舵居中並垂直於中心線。 然後是添加內部零件並構建鑽機的情況。 唯一的重大失敗。 我忘了加固桅杆下的船體，差點把桅杆推過船底，這在水上看起來不太好。 除此之外，一切都是笨拙的多莉。 重新裝備。 我從 Housemartin 帆購買了一套用於鑽機、帆和配件的套件。 沒有關於這些位的說明，但是有關於如何在 Salesetc 上組裝鑽機的很好的文檔，我能夠從那裡解決所有問題。 帆很便宜，而且很容易安裝。 您最初可能只需要購買 A 和 B 鑽機。 我從 Dave Creed 那裡買了鰭舵、燈泡和鰭箱，我認為他是該行業中最好的。 由於這艘船是第一次在水面上，我已經做了很多合適的改進，我想我現在有了一個最終配置好的船。 黃金法則越簡單越好。 這艘船很有競爭力，但我相信它在強風中永遠不會像頂級生產船一樣快。 我的目標是看看當排名活動開始時我能走多遠。 這艘船是 Frensham 池塘的常客，在訪問 Emsworth 時，我在由一些非常有經驗的水手駕駛的生產船組成的船隊中，在 15 場比賽中的 10 場比賽中獲得了第 4 名。 關於成本和時間。 我在船體（包括工具）上花了大約 400 英鎊，在配件上花了大約 900 英鎊（鑽機套件 A、B、C 300 英鎊，rmg 絞盤加開關 235 英鎊，無線電套件 108 英鎊，鰭燈泡和方向舵 110 英鎊）。 我以不到 50 英鎊的價格製作了自己的船箱和鑽機箱。 將此與購買全套套件（包括 A - C 鑽機、鑽機箱、船架、船箱）進行比較，價格為 3-4000 英鎊，具體取決於您購買的地點。 如果這些信息激勵您建造一艘船，您將不會失望，我總是很樂意提供任何建議。 你可以有耐心，最重要的是非常仔細的計劃，並記住那裡有很多人願意提供幫助。

活動前 確定 你的 航海目標 了解你的 賽車規則和戰術 謹慎管理您的投資 船隻維修 向右快速航行 船隻調整和設置 了解您的無線電控制 有效的 船練習 確保使用一致的設置 檢查清單 知道如何 天氣 會幫助你 有用 參考

DF 95 Tuning numbers If you search on the web for DF 95 tuning you can get similar images to the one below. I use it as a guide (ignoring the mast gate positions) to establish some starting points and then adjust as I feel fit. As I get comfortable with my setting I will mark up the cords so I can achieve similar setting on each outing. But the best way to set up is to copy Craig or find the fastest boat on the day and set up similar to that. How do I set the boat up Having raced twice now at a TT and the first day of the Nationals at Poole with top 2 results, I can conclude my light weather set up is OK. The following pages show how Craig sets his boat up and there are many useful tips there. However whilst I have copied quite a bit from his work the are some things I do a little different. I use the table above for foot depth and boom angle. So I start with the mast 2 notches forward from the back. I do this because my luff curve on the main is not shaved like Craigs so I need a bit more mast bend. This sets the mast rake so there is no need to measure bow bumper to the crane. With the jib luff slackish, I adjust the backstay to put in about 5 mm of bend so the mainsail sits nicely agains the mast. Then I apply enough forestay tension to keep the top of the jib is stable in the strongest gust of the day. This will stop the top of the jib wobbling which we all know is dead slow. Then I check my boom angles and foot depth from the chart and make sure the rudder is straight. The last thing I do is holding the boat, sheet everything in to make sure the setup looks OK and then gradually head the boat up into wind to check the jib tell tale and the tell tail I have at the top of the main react in unison. Then I know the boat should be balanced. I put the boat on the water to see how it sails upwind. If I have lee helm, I apply a tiny bit of kicker until the balance is relatively neutral and the reverse if there is weather helm. That is pretty much all there is to the set up. It is very easy to over complicate. Far better to go with your setup and focus on the sailing. These are one design boats and there is much to be gained by sailing smart. How do I sail the DF In summary, I think lower and faster upwind is my mantra usually with the sheets eased a notch or two to get better VMG. I do have a high mode for getting off the start line and sailing in the stronger gusts but rarely use it. Starting In a one design boat I have become more aggressive on the start line. In the past I have hung back but find you lose too much distance if the line is biased like it was at Poole. So on a very port biased line I want to be the pin end boat but this does require a level of skill and timing. If the line is squarer and there is no advantage to go left I want to be one of the starboard end boats so I have positional control on the fleet and always look to find a gap on the start so I can tack when I like. On the first beat I will try and stay to the right of the fleet so I do not get forced left by starboard boats and have to take pot luck coming into the mark on port. Of course if there is a favourable left side shift or more pressure I will head that way. On the reach or run in lighter conditions I find the boat does like heading up in the lulls and bearing away in the puffs as this maintains a better overall speed. I have used the technique in dinghies, yachts and model yachts. It all comes down to manipulating apparent wind. There is a lot more on tactical sailing round the course in the section "Racing and IOM". This winter I will rearrange the site so it covers IOM, DF and Marblehead and have racing as a separate section. Overall message is keep everything simple and focus on sailing fast when your boat is on the water.

Home The front page explaining why this site and who is it for About the Author Useful web sites Ass hierarchy Social media Boat builders Rigs and Sails Fittings Radio control Other suppliers Australasian sites Boat building Tuning your IOM Rule changes IOM Building an IOM Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative build Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result Working up a Britpop Developing the Alioth Boat 1 Developing the Alioth Boat 2 The final Alioth settings Choosing the right rig Measuring your settings Sailing and IOM fast IOM designs Boat box, Rig Box and stand Marblehead The project The starting point Developing the boat and rig DF95 My story DF95 tuning numbers Craigs setup guide 1 Craigs setup guide 2 Usefule videos Ken Read tuning tips Racing tips Before an evetn Whats your goal Racing rules and tactics Boat maintenance Boat tuning and setup Know your radio controls Boat practice Check lists and measurement Weather References On the day Set yourself up Set your boat up Sailing before the start Getting round the course Start 1st windward leg Windward mark rounding Run Leeward mark 2nd windward leg Finish After sailing Golden rules Positioning Racing thought processes Managing competitive anxiety Putting it all together Videos from around the world Results and schedule Reference books New to radio sailing Acknowledgement

運行 你需要知道的 繞過迎風標記，讓自己有機會到達您選擇的一側。 盡可能直地航行，並儘可能靠近恆向線。 細節 希望你在開始這條腿之前選擇了跑步的哪一側，並相應地定位了船。 盡可能直地航行，並儘可能靠近恆向線。 這是您的練習將派上用場的地方，即船沿直線行駛，您 通過使用絞盤以最小的方向變化進行 jibe，您可以在最小的方向變化的情況下快速有效地轉動鵝翅。 注意後面的船隻覆蓋你的。 最好盡量避開後面的其他船隻，因為它們總是會試圖抓住你的風。 最好先在晴朗的空氣中做出明確的舉動，而不是在您努力避開後面的船隻時被迫進入。 通過遠離其他船隻，您還可以避免變幅比賽，並可以堅持您的計劃。 向前看併計劃下風標誌/大門 四捨五入。 登機口的哪一側取決於哪個標記更近以及下一個迎風腿的哪一側。相應地定位船。 始終注意迎風吹煙，並準備改變計劃以適應它們。 這可能意味著一個嘲諷和一個方向的重大改變，以達到抽吸的目的。 定位在背風標記處的內側船，因為如果您的方法正確，您可以獲得顯著的收益。 最後，跑步中最重要的事情是保持冷靜，在開始第一節拍和標記方法的興奮之後，緩慢地深呼吸以冷靜下來。