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IOM Build Race tune is the best site on the web for all things IOM and radio yacht racing. How to build, setup and race your boat Building, tuning, racing IOM and radio Model Yachts Welcome to Barrow's unique information site for radio sailing. If you are looking to get into radio sailing, improve your performance or learn about building and setting up these tricky boats, then this is the site for you. Boat building, setting up the boats, maximising sailing performance and much much more. Either click on a heading or search for something generically using the search box. Using a mobile, the menu is accessed by clicking on the three horizontal lines at the top of the screen. Please note that this is a members only site so sign up when asked to get access to the best radio sailing content on the web. Click on any of the restricted tabs to get to the sign up page. It only asks for a name and email address. The privacy policy can be accessed at the bottom of the page. The About, Useful websites and more tabs are available to view as a taster. I hope you enjoy site. Please send me a message if you want anything added or researched. What will you find: About - Explains why I created the site, who its for and a bit about me Blog - As I come across ideas or sail in events, I put articles and reports in here Useful websites - This is a list of all the sites I identified in my journey to build and race boats The classes - Include building, setting up and racing IOM's, DF65, DF95 and Marbleheads Racing tips - There is a lot packed into here for new and a new section for advanced skippers More - My race schedule, results, reference books, advice for new entrants and acknowledgements Look on this site as a text book for all things radio sailing.

若要測試此功能，請造訪即時網站。 所有文章 我的文章 The Forum Browse the forum below & start posting questions, tips, and anything else that you'd like to share with the community. 排序方式： 最近活動 追蹤所有類別 建立新文章 Comments 瀏覽次數 最近活動 Item option menu Jib pivot guido02474 2 0 15h I made an improvement to my alternative so that I can adjust the rake better rc zeilen 1 1 15h Forum - Frameless

Building a travel boat for boat and rigs, boat storage box, rig box and stand Protect your investment International travel box, boat box, rig box and stand What you need to know Boat box made of 1/8th plywood to my own design and painted with epoxy and polyurethane left over from the boat build. Rig box is made from Correx reinforced with strip wood bonded with purpose made double sided tape Boat stand made from 20x20mm strip wood. Boat box for international travel designed by Peter Stollery The Details Boat Box The design is such you can lay the fin rudder and bulb in the bottom of the box on felt. The movable frames are cut out using the frame shape on the design plan. A layer of felt is added to protect the boat. Channels are cut out of the bottom of the frames for the fin bulb and rudder. The frames hold these securely in place. Once the frames are in the boat is added. The lid is designed to just touch the frames so nothing can move inside the box whichever way up it is held. 圖 4 Local Transport To transport the boat locally when fully rigged to the club, I wrap a couple of loops of insulation foam around the hull to stop the hull resting on the boot of the car. In addition I edge the fin and rudder and bulb with the same foam. Boat support frame A very simple construction made out of 20x20mm strip wood and hinged with a couple of bolts. Remember to cut any excess bolt off as this can damage the fin. The boat can be sat at an angle to for rig set up. 保護您的投資 船箱、鑽機箱和支架 你需要知道的 船箱由我自己設計的 1/8 膠合板製成，並塗有船建造時遺留的環氧樹脂和聚氨酯。 鑽機盒由 Correx 製成，並用特製的雙面膠帶粘合條狀木料 船架由 20x20 毫米長條木製成。 細節（圖 1,2 和 3） 船箱 設計是這樣你可以把鰭舵和燈泡放在盒子底部的毛氈上。 使用設計平面上的框架形狀切割可移動框架。 添加了一層毛氈以保護船。 從框架底部切出用於鰭球和方向舵的通道。 框架將這些牢固地固定到位。 一旦框架在船上被添加。 蓋子設計為僅接觸框架，因此無論以何種方式向上放置，盒子內都不會移動。 本地交通（圖 4） 為了在完全裝配到俱樂部後將船運送到當地，我在船體周圍包裹了幾圈絕緣泡沫，以防止船體擱在汽車後備箱上。 此外，我用相同的泡沫對鰭、舵和燈泡進行了邊緣處理。 船用支撐架（圖 4） 一個非常簡單的結構，由 20x20mm 的條形木頭製成，並用幾個螺栓鉸接。 切記切斷任何多餘的螺栓，因為這會損壞散熱片。 船可以傾斜放置以進行鑽機設置。 帆箱（圖 5 和圖 6） 這需要一些完善，但它是製作堅固、防風雨的鑽機箱的一種非常便宜的方法。 我從這裡 買了 3 張 8 英尺 x 4 英尺 x 2 毫米的 Correx 和雙面膠帶，將條形木條粘在這裡 Correx 它非常容易切割和折疊，而且非常堅固 當在邊緣用條形木加固並固定在每個桅杆下時。 我使用用雙面膠帶粘住的筆架夾子將桅杆固定到位。 請注意，Correx 很難粘上任何東西。 上面的雙面膠帶和魔術貼粘得非常好。 總共花費 30 英鎊，如果這一張損壞了，我還有 2 張 Correx。 Peter Stollery's international travel box Peter very kindly sent me the details of his magic box for transporting my IOM and rigs on a plane to Australia. The box is easy to assemble with care and cheap to build. I have made one myself but painted it white inside and out. With a 3d printed boat, I wanted to reflect heat if the box ever got left out in the sun airside. Basically it is a standard rig box shape on plan but with a much deeper section at the top of the rig to enclose the boat. A strong bulkhead is fitted in the middle to which the bulb and fin is bolted (the rig bag slides under the bulkhead). I carefully slide the bulb into a tight fitting piece of plumbing pipe for which there are standard brackets to hold it in place (short pieces of pipe insulation are rammed into the ends and then jammed against the sides of the box to make sure the bulb can't move). For the Italy trip I also carried 2 Tx which were secured with string and then sandwiched with soft foam when the lid was fitted. Also added for Italy was a small tool kit (ice cream tub) and all the essential spares dotted about and wrapped in bubble wrap. All up weight was 15kg. Everything else went in hand luggage. I built the box to go to Canada in 2003 and it has survived trips to Spain, Australia and Italy without any damage [also San Fransisco 2015, Brazil 2019, Croatia 2022 and Spain 2023 with Shaun Priestley]. The only down side is that the lid is secured by 20 screws so it is a bit of a hassle if security want to look inside!! If you do decide to build, make sure everything is carefully packed and secured (especially the bulb) as the consequences of 'loose' packing with this type of box are obviously much more dramatic! Here is a diagram with the overall dimensions of the magic box followed by a set of pictures showing how everything fits inside The grey pipe is 38mm internal diameter and is 380mm long. The slit is 218mm long and about 5mm wide. The bulb has a sock which is a bit of old duster I think. The bulb goes into the tube with the aft end of the bulb first. This means the trailing edge of the fin comes to a stop at the end of the slit. This is because the tube is secured in the box with the forward (blunt!) end of the bulb pointing at the ground (ie the away from the carrying handle). This means that gravity will be trying to push the bulb and fin out of the slit in the tube and it will be the blunt end pushing on the side of the box (rather than the really sharp end trying to poke its way out of the box!). That said, the bulb should be so tightly jammed in the tube that it can't move! Back to sliding the bulb in to the tube, there is a piece of thin but tough white plastic folded in half and taped to the back edge of the fin. Not only does this protect the back edge but it protects the sides if the fin from being scratched by the edges of the slit when you slide the bulb in. It is a very tight fit with the duster and the bulb actually opens up the slit a bit to accommodate the bulb. There is some duck tape around the slit end of the pipe to pull this in tight. At the pointy end I jam in some thin walled pipe insulation and then jam in some chunkier short sections of pipe insulation. The box should effectively be pushing these in (ie they should be sticking out of the tube until the tube is put in the box. When clamped to the bulkhead which you'll see in a later email, there is another sponge packer which keeps everything really. tight. The bulk head and the bulb packing is the most important bit as clearly we don't want it coming loose! The plastic pipe is slightly shorter than the internal width of the box but the chunky bits of pipe insulation at each end are long enough so that they can't be forced completely inside the tube. This means they stick out and have to be squashed in against the box at each end i.e. the box ends up trying to force the pipe insulation in which helps keep everything tight. The Bulkhead The bulkhead is 6mm ply with 20 x 20mm stiffner along the top and down the sides. The bulkhead is fitted at 90 degrees to the side with the handle attached. The cut out is shaped with the highest bit 54mm above the base of the box. Basically, you cut out the minimal amount to get the rig bag in so that as much strength is retained. When I slide the rig bag in I have to flex the masts a small amount to get them in. The pipe clips are permanently screwed to the bulkhead through their top hole and then removeable nuts and bolts secure it through the bottom hole. The box is made with 3mm ply with 20 x 20mm framing. The ply is glued and pinned at 100mm centres to the framing. The lid is entirely 3mm ply with the exception of one piece of 20mm framing which runs from the widest end of the box to the bulkhead. The mast laid on the box in the image attached shows the line of where this bit of reinforcing sits when the lid is on. This simply stiffens the lid over the top of where the fin lies. There are 3mm ply 80mm diameter reinforcing patches either side of the bulkhead which take the handle attachments. Here is a picture of the lid with its reinforcing bar. The rig bag slides in under some zig zagging rope which helps to keep it secure. Note that the masts are along the side which doesn't have the handle (ie the bottom of the box when being carried). The bulb tube is bolted into the clips making sure the pipe insulation is tight against the sides of the box. The boat goes deck down (normally with the rudder off of course!). I have two straps which go around the hull which are attached to the handle side of the box. As with the bulb and rigs, the straps are so that the boat can't slip or move down when the box is being carried. I haven't put any bubble wrap or foam packers in around the boat but normally the front section is full of padding. The tool box, spares, txs etc.... Are all secured to the bottom of the box (bottom when its being carried). To be honest I can't remember exactly hiw this is done but so long as the stuff can't come loose it should be fine. All up weight with everything in was around 15kg I think. Note 1. All the dims on the drawing are external overall dims and include the lid thickness. 2. As previous email there is only one bar fixed to the lid. 3. The bulkhead is 6mm ply and framing and is very strong. The framing down the sides of the bulkhead is screwed in from the outside rather than pinned. 4. The 410mm dim is the overall dimension to the face of the ply measured along the line of the bulkhead. 5. There is no bulkhead around the txs. They are just tied in with plenty of foam packing around them.

Learn about building, optimising, tuning and all aspect of racing radio sailing yachts 聯繫我們 感謝提交！ 提交

What to do before during and after racing plus tactics to get round the race course.

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The IOM Project BUILDING AND RACING ONE METRES 2 Alternatives 2 Britpops 2 Alioths 2 Proteus (One broke and current)

一些你可能喜歡讀的書 理論 CA Marchaj 的帆船理論與實踐 1964年 CA Marchaj 的航行空氣流體動力學 1979年 CA Marchaj 的風帆表演 1996年 弗蘭克·貝思韋特（Frank Bethwaite）的高性能帆船 2010（第二版） 實踐 Paul Elvstrom的專家小艇賽車 1963年 斯圖爾特沃克的風與戰略 1973年 Christopher Caswell 和 David Ullman 的冠軍小艇帆船賽 1978年 布魯斯·班克斯 / 迪克·肯尼的《看帆》 1979年 勝利 - Stuart Walker 的競爭心理學 1980年 Stuart Walker 1981 年的高級賽車戰術 Eric Twiname 的航海、比賽和勝利 1982年 這是 Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 的船調速度 1984年 揚帆取勝系列 - 勞裡·史密斯 (Lawrie Smith) 的小艇舵 1983年 - David Houghton 的 Wind Strategy 1984年 - 由 Lawrie Smith 調整您的小艇 1985年 - 羅德尼帕蒂森/蒂姆戴維森的船速 1986年 Jim Saltonstall 的 RYA 比賽訓練手冊 1983年 感謝 Brian Outram（澳大利亞）的閱讀清單 讓我知道你最喜歡的書，以便我可以將它們添加到列表中

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Enjoy.

DF95 Videos from the Web Do a search on google with the text "DF95 tuning and build videos" Here are a couple of examples Brad Reads Tips on Setting up and Tuning a DragonFlite95 RC Sailboat Newport Model Sailing Club - DF95 Clinic with Ken Read Fleetwood livestream at the Global championships 2023

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve