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Working up a Britpop As most of you know I gave in and bought a Britpop mid 2021 to take out the one variable to boat speed that was unknown to me. It was not that my Alternative was slow, it was just all the fast designs today have a significant chine and volume at the back end and that sowed an element of doubt in my mind over my boats overall performance. Funnily enough I thought that any tiny lack of performance was in light weather rather than heavy. In a breeze on flat water, I felt the Alternative had a slight edge The road to glory is not as simple as buying a Britpop or similar modern design and does not lead to race winning performance. Here is my story so far. The initial set up The third hand hull (2014 Robot build) was sound with a few scratches on the hull and bulb that I was able to polish out however it had a couple of chunks taken out of the trailing edge of the fin. It had an excellent RMG winch and fittings so nothing had to be done to the hull fin and bulb. There was no RC so I bought a Futaba I6 transmitter and receiver which I found to be excellent and replaced the rudder servo with a futaba 3010. The reason for using a Futaba instead of the Flysky was the Futaba had a ratchet on the winch. I coated all the connections in Corrosion X to stop any corrosion in salt water. However I found that was not enough as when the radio pot leaked with salt water and I left it for a couple of days, the connectors showed signs of corrosion and had to be replaced. A cut down kilner jar rubber seal inserted in the lid fixed the leak or so I thought and replaced connectors got the electrics back up and running reliably. The hull is cleaned with T cut and left at that. There are a couple of chips in the trailing edge of the fin but I have not noticed any problem with that but are now repaired. I had worked up good rigs on my Alternative and all I had to do was transfer them to the Britpop. The rigs are BG sails set on PG spars with 11 and 7 mm pre bend on the A and B rig. The settings are almost identical between the boat designs. You can see the rig set up here. although I have made a few changes to the jib attachment at the head because the loop knot I used to attach the topping lift slipped on the B and C rig with disastrous results so I attach the topping lift and jib luff direct to the hook on the mast (See the story here ) . On the A rig, my loop knot is a bowline with a locking half hitch coated in super glue to make sure there is no slippage. there are more pictures of the current rig below. The sheets are 35kg line as is the line to the winch. The sheets need replacing regularly but I find anything heavier does not ease effectively in very light weather. I have tested the 35kg line in 25-30 knots of breeze with the C rig and top end of the A rig so they are strong enough. I use the standard setup settings on the BG website as my starting point and always carry a rig stick to make sure the rake is correct and therefore the boat is balanced and run a tape over the foot and leach measurements. A wise man in Birkenhead said to me, the secret in setting up the boat is to have a list of goto settings and keep everything as simple as possible. There are changes made to my original rig setups which I have previously documented but the latest are from events occurring at the 2 Islands ranking event where I broke a shroud and had no spare. I now have spare A and B Jibs on booms, and completing spare A and B masts with mains, along with spare shrouds and backstays. The last thing was to put the boat in the measuring tank to look at two things. One was the fore and aft balance of the boat which I am happy to say is good. The bow was out of the water for just under an inch from the back of the bow bumper so no need to do anything. The other thing was to see if I could drop the bulb/fin as I know we had approximately a 5 mm gap to the measuring bar when last measured. Sure enough, it could drop 4.5mm which does not sound a lot but sailing hard up wind, moving 2.5kg, 4.5mm further out is quite a bit of righting moment. Of course, now I need a securing bolt with an extra 5mm on it. To drop the fin, I put together spacers on top of the fin (three section of cable tie stuck together with super glue and packed out the trailing edge with Isopon so the fin was nice and snug in the case. The last thing was to replace my futaba 3010 servo with a BLS471sv. It was not a cheap replacement but the rudder is tighter with no movement and centres perfectly every time. WIth the 3010, if you move the rudder, there was about 5mm movement on the trailing edge. With the 471 there is no movement at all. Once the Britpop was set up and sailing it was time to apply some magic which I hate to say only seems to come through experience, racing and practice, or as my old 470 sparing partner and super coach said, you just need many hours on the water. The observations below are my learnings from the racing so far. Where is the magic A simple rig setup Articles on setting up the rig on an IOM may talk about how the mast control is split into 3 sections. The bottom third is controlled by the mast ram, the middle third is controlled by the spreaders and the rig tension and the top third is controlled by backstay tension. That is the easy bit. The hard bit is to determine what your initial racing setup should be based on your understanding of the mast bend/mainsail relationship. The experts are able to set their boats up almost by feel. They have done it so many times before and know what works and what doesn't work and have good reliable base settings. The ultimate test of a correct set up is to tack your boat on the limit of a rig and have the boat accelerate away with little or no helm interaction. To learn about the impact of different adjustments, I like to experiment by laying the boat with the mast horizontal. Bear in mind I use BG sails which has luff curve built in so giving great flexibility in the way you shape the sail and these are fitted to a PG mast (10mm prebend) on a Britpop. My goal is to understand how the mast bend works given different settings from one extreme to another. Once I have been through this exercise, I identify one mid range setting, mark everything up to this setting and this will be my start point for racing. If there is more or less wind, I will make mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe shroud tension. The first thing to do is set the mast up with relatively slack shrouds for light weather. The leeward shroud must not go soft when on the wind and then apply enough backstay so the mast is as straight as possible even through the deck. You should have a couple mm of rake on your spreaders. This is the starting point for light weather. Now if you apply more backstay you begin to de-power the rig, the mast will bend evenly but more in in the central third. If you keep the shroud tension the same and apply more backstay, the main will end up flat at the middle/ bottom third and be too full at the top and may even break down in the middle, if you overdue the backstay tension. Our goal is to keep the power low down and blade out or flatten the top. As the wind builds above an imaginary 5 knots or so, gradually stiffen the mast low down by applying a little more rig tension and add a tiny bit of reverse bend at the deck with the mast chock. Remember the rig tension will affect the middle third of the mast. As you stiffen the bottom and middle third of the mast, you encourage more bend at the top which will help blade out the sail effectively depowering the rig. The rig tension is gradually increased through the wind range, 0-5, 5-10,10-15. At the top end of the A rig you need max rig tension to get as much bend as possible in the top third of the mast so you blade out the top of the sail. You should end up with slight reverse bend at the deck level, an even bend through the mast with slightly more induced at the top. If it all works out when sailing upwind, your main should fill evenly top to bottom and invert at the top as the rig becomes overpowered. The goal of this exercise is to develop an understanding of how the rig works not to develop a myriad of settings for different wind ranges. Once you have tried this indoors and understood how everything fits together, find a mid point setting (5 to 10 knots) and test it out on the water. If you are happy with what you see, mark everything up so you can repeat the setup when you next rig your boat. The usual rules apply for rig set up, set the kicker for downwind, use the backstay for upwind leach tension, make the jib slot parallel to the main as well as using the BG measurement for distance from leach line to jib leach and main and jib foot depth. From this setup you will only need to apply mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe a slight increase of decrease on shroud tension. When I set up, I have marked positions for the shroud bottle screws (locking nuts), sheet hooks, sail foot depths, mast rake and leach twist distances from the topping lift, sheeting angle for the main and jib. With these as a starting point, I know I have a reliable setup and if I need to adjust anything by more then a few mm, something is wrong in my initial setup. Some pictures of the extreme setting to see their impact on the mainsail 1 The shrouds are as slack as they can be with a straight mast. Perfect starting point for light weather The effect of too much backstay with little rig tensions. The sail has inverted at the numbers and the top of the mast is still relatively straight at the top third. The same setting as above only I have Increased the shroud tension to the max. Note how the middle has straightened out. I could straighten the middle of the mast more if I want with a little more mast chock. Setting adjustments are subtle for any given condition and needs only mm's of change but one must read the settings guide thoroughly, otherwise basic mistakes can be made. In light weather I noticed at one of the ranking events, that Chris Harris who won the day, using more depth in the jib foot in light weather and I estimated it to be 25-30mm. The BG standard measurement is circa 22mm. It was the same on his mainsail, so I tried the same and went from 22 to 30 and saw an increase in speed with the boat pointing at the same height or higher to windward. Of course you still need to sail fast and free to maximise speed around the course. On making further enquiries about the main and jib foot depth, I had assumed that the BG measurements were from the centre of the boom to the foot of the sail. I emailed Brad Gibson and he replied saying that the measurement is from the edge of the booms which make 5mm difference. Took me 6 months to work that one out. The second setting adjustment was on the mainsail in a breeze. I have always struggled to keep the top third of the main from backwinding at the top end of the A rig, even with the jib leech well open. I found by flattening the foot by 5mm, increasing the shroud tension to move the bend up the mast with 1-3 mm of extra back stay, the top of the sail is flattened and works more effectively and does not backwind so much in the gusts. It seemed similar to when we used to blade out the top of the mainsail on fractional rig yachts. When you measure the luff curve on the mainsail luff of a BG sail, there is a max of 10mm in a smooth curve from the mast head to 600mm down. This is the ideal curve one needs to achieve on the mast so the top of the sail flattens evenly and remains stable. I slightly flatten the jib on flat water at the top end of the A rig but only by 5mm or so. The third adjustment is with the shrouds. Starting lose in light weather they should be progressively tightened as the wind builds. The critical thing to look for is that the mast stays in column on either tack when set up for windward work and the leeward shroud should not go slack when the boat is under pressure otherwise the windward spreader will push the middle of the mast to leeward. The shrouds should not be so tight that the middle of the mast cannot flex fore and aft to de-power the rig in a gust. Check that the shrouds are of equal length when pulled down the front of the mast so you know when equally tensioned the mast will be upright and when you rig the boat, lay it on the ground or stand so you can see down the mast to make sure there is no sideways bend caused by uneven shrouds tension and double check the backstay crane is central. When the boat is set up correctly it rarely needs changing. I have sailed for a whole day with variable conditions without changing a thing. If you find yourself tinkering after each race your boat is not optimised. If the wind does build during the day you will need to tighten the jib luff slightly which has the effect of tightening the jib leech. A loose jib leech will cause the boat to luff up in a breeze and that is slow. If you have a transmitter with a ratchet sheet, you have a huge advantage with the precision you can set the sheeting angle of the sails. The video below show the effect of easing the sheets 1 2 or 3 clicks. Double click on the screen for full screen view. Once your boat is set up, the rest is down to your sailing skill which I cover on another page. See my latest setup checklist at the bottom of the page but I regularly re read the BG setup tips to make sure I have not made any silly mistakes. Finally a couple of pictures. The first is the method of keeping the jib boom as low as possible. I use a sheet hook with a series of holes spaced 2.5mm apart so I can get the jib as close to the deck as possible. The only downside with the use of the clamp on the boom is that the line wears after several weekends and has to be replaced however this is only a 5 minute job. I have changed to tying the tack line onto the boom which eliminates there clamp, sheet hook and ring The next picture shows how I have lowered the mast by 7 to 10mm to get the lower band below the deck level by 5mm. It involved modifying the kicker fitting, shortening the length of it by 10mm which I explained in a thought for the day. I also learnt how salt crystallises inside your mast if you do not flush them out on a regular basis. Note that if you lower the mast too much the gooseneck will not be able to but up against the mast ram and stop any mast rotation. I use a standard Cunningham arrangement feeding to the two cable ties and the bowsie is to tighten the jackstay (luff wire of the mainsail). This one shows my final jib head arrangement for the A rig which allows the jib to freely rotate in very light weather. The design is the one suggested by sails etc however I have gone back to attaching the leech line and jib luff to the hook on the mast Here is the sailsetc boom end fitting that eliminated the wear on the elasticated topping lift. The elastic runs inside the boom. Here you can see the velcro in the radio pot which allows me to position everything at the top of the pot so I have no issues if salt water accidentally gets in. A note for open water compared to inland sailing In open water there is a good chance you will be sailing in waves. The boat is constantly accelerating and de-accelerating. The sails will nearly always require more depth and twist than on flat water to power through the waves. Again we are only talking a mm or two of change in your setting but it will make a huge difference. One last thing. I picked up a rig tension meter in mid 2022 and found this to be invaluable. Bearing in mind the impact of rig tension on the middle third of the mast, you must have a base starting point. If you want one, email JohnGill1003@gmail.com . He is based in the UK. It is a quality product and each one is individually tested. 活動前 確定 你的 航海目標 了解你的 賽車規則和戰術 謹慎管理您的投資 船隻維修 向右快速航行 船隻調整和設置 了解您的無線電控制 有效的 船練習 確保使用一致的設置 檢查清單 知道如何 天氣 會幫助你 有用 參考

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

迎風標記舍入 你需要知道的 避開人群 不要擊中目標 了解你的規則 到達右舷區域 細節 在迎風標記處，獲得名額的機會很小，但失利的機會很大。在極端情況下，您可以在第二個進入港口時到達第一個標記，但在右舷船隻進入標記的隊列中找不到間隙。你必須一個接一個地從右舷的所有小船後面經過，你可以最後一個。 因此，準備迎風標記的黃金法則是在距標記至少 6 條船長的位置靠右舷進近，因此毫無疑問您已經在區域外定位。 如果有吊具標記，請給自己一點迎風的空間，以避免受到任何干擾的空氣，並確保您可以以最佳速度航行到吊具標記。如果您在巴西觀看世界上的一些迎風標記，您可以看到許多得失的例子。本文底部有幾個鏈接，所有冠軍視頻都在這裡 在您的方法中，盡量避免成群結隊的船隻。他們總是會放慢你的速度，限制你的運動，甚至迫使你遠離標記。在最壞的情況下，您可能會捲入事故中並且必須進行處罰轉彎 不用說，要避免擊中標記或其吊具導致罰彎。給自己多一點空間。 在標記處了解您的規則 這是一個關鍵規則 標記區為 4 個船長 R18 任何進入標記區的船幾乎沒有權利 如果您在該區域內轉彎，而後面的右舷船不得不傾斜以避開您，您將受到處罰。您沒有標記房間的權利。 如果兩艘船同時在區域內轉彎，另一艘左舷的船必須保持暢通，並在完成轉彎後建立新的重疊 如果您因為被侵權而擊中標記，則您將被免除責任，無需轉彎 視頻示例 當它出錯時 在吊具標記處的操作

航行後 “照顧好你的船，它就會照顧好你” 你需要知道的 始終保護您的船免受陽光直射 賽后總是擦乾船和帆 如果您曾在鹽水中航行，請用半杯水沖洗船體內部 取下貼片以允許通風 用毛巾擦乾帆以防止水印 檢查線條是否有可能鬆動的磨損和結的跡象 用凡士林或等效物清潔和保護電器 用絕緣泡沫保護翅片 釋放所有帆張緊裝置、起球器、cunningham、jackstay 等 將帆和鑽機存放在盒子中以進行保護 細節 在我開始之前，有一件事情要提。 在陽光明媚的日子裡，當您的船離開水面時，請將其放在陰涼處或用毛巾蓋住。 如果不這樣做，可能會導致舵或鰭翹曲，並且在極端高溫下會導致船體中的環氧樹脂重新固化。 所以你已經完成了一天的比賽，你認為一切都結束了。 不完全的。 你在你的船和帆上投入了大量的時間和金錢，需要得到尊重。 那你該怎麼辦。 始終用毛巾徹底擦乾船並排幹進入船內的水。 拆下端甲板補丁，讓空氣流過船體並乾燥內部。在一周內存放船隻時，您不希望出現任何冷凝。 如果您在鹽水中航行並且船漏水，請將半杯淡水放入船體並沖洗掉所有鹽分。 用毛巾小心擦乾帆以防止水印。 放鬆所有張緊線，這樣您的帆就不會變形。 一旦它們完全乾燥，將它們放回您的鑽機箱中進行存儲。 掃描您船上的繩索是否有磨損，並檢查繩結是否牢固。 如果結是強力膠，它們永遠不會鬆開。 檢查收音機是否受潮並晾乾，然後斷開電池的連接，然後取下充電。 攜帶備用電池是個好政策。 將船從水中取出後，立即在尾翼、燈泡和舵的前緣和後緣放置泡沫管絕緣材料，以確保它們在運輸過程中不會損壞。 在當地航行並運輸裝備齊全的船隻時，請確保船體位於乾淨柔軟的物體上，或者如果在沒有裝備的情況下運輸，請在船首和船尾周圍放置一圈管道絕緣材料。 這將使船懸浮在半空中，從而防止船體側面磨損。

當天（點擊藍色 文字） 設置自己 與設置船隻一樣重要 使用可重複的過程 設置船 在開始之前 明智地利用時間航行 起點 是比賽的 80%，讓它成為一場好比賽 按照您的第 1 個迎風航段的 計劃，準備乘船到達您想要的路線一側 儘早計劃向風標記繞行 ，右舷到達並避免成群結隊的船隻 設置為到達運行的所需一側 背風標記 - 在船內，接近標記並靠近標記 最後一拍 - 鬆散的掩護以保持位置 終點 標記具有與迎風標記相同的規則。 避免在該區域中釘 航行後 檢查清單，清潔和乾燥船，鬆開帆等。 黃金法則 遠離麻煩 將所有內容放在一起 - 帶有戰術畫外音的世界冠軍賽視頻

澳大利亞網站 在鹽水中無線電控制航行 Darren Paulic 在 Facebook RC Sailing Group 上發布了此消息 無線電帆船店 澳大利亞無線電供應商 Red Ant 無線電遊艇 SailRC 無線電控制裝置 360帆 貓帆 FRD 弗蘭克羅素設計 JG帆 B計劃 幽靈之帆 幻影無線電遊艇 新西蘭網站 維克斯 RC 帆船 無線電遊艇用品 UltraLite的無線電Yachtin g ^ 新西蘭無線電遊艇協會

The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

關聯層次結構（鏈接到藍色站點） 世界帆船運動負責 在國際上推廣這項運動； 管理奧運會和殘奧會的帆船運動； 制定帆船比賽規則和所有帆船比賽的規則； 法官、裁判員和其他行政人員的培訓； 世界體育運動的發展；和 在與這項運動有關的所有事務中代表水手。 https://www.sailing.org 瑞亞 皇家遊艇協會是小艇、遊艇和機動巡航、各種形式的帆船、RIB 和運動船、風帆衝浪和個人船隻的國家機構，也是內陸水道巡航的主要代表。 https://www.rya.org.uk/Pages/Home.aspx 國際無線電帆船協會 (IRSA) IRSA 是全球無線電帆船組織，是 World Sailing 的附屬成員。 IRSA 致力於通過推廣和發展一致的課程規則、測量方法、無線電帆船比賽規則以及在舉辦重大賽事方面的建議來提高當前和新興的世界無線電帆船課程。 https://www.radiosailing.org 模型遊艇協會 模型遊艇協會 (MYA) 成立於 1911 年，前身為模型遊艇競賽協會，並於 1923 年更名為現在的名稱。我們很幸運也很自豪能得到菲利普親王殿下的讚助。 MYA 是一個俱樂部協會，其成員可以加入 MYA 以享受會員提供的所有好處。 MYA 是英國國家無線電和自由航行管理局，隸屬於皇家遊艇協會 和國際無線電航行協會 (IRSA) ，並得到它們的認可，提供與世界帆船運動的 直接聯繫，並使我們能夠對世界帆船運動產生影響。管理我們運動的規則 https://mya-uk.org.uk IOM 國際船級社 (IOMICA) IOMICA 有三個主要責任領域：班級規則、國際事件和班級測量員。它在ISAF無線電航行司的管轄範圍內行使這些職責： http://www.iomclass.org/ GBR全國班級協會 GBR 的國家級協會 (NCA) 是 IOMICA 世界理事會中 GBR IOM 所有者的代言人。 GBR 的 NCA 負責確保 GBR 所有者能夠將他們的觀點提交給國際一米船級協會 (IOMICA)，並負責在世界舞台上對船級規則和管理的提案進行提議和投票。 任何已註冊 IOM 的 MYA 成員將自動成為 NCA 的成員，不再需要進一步註冊。 www.iomgbr.co.uk 國家級船長是馬爾科姆阿普爾頓 其他班級協會及其鏈接 阿根廷（鏈接無效） 澳大利亞 酒吧（鏈接無效） 比利時 巴西 加拿大 辣椒 克羅地亞 丹麥 西班牙 芬蘭 （鏈接失效） 法國 英國廣播公司 德國 愛爾蘭 （鏈接失效） 以色列訴 意大利 馬耳他 荷蘭 挪威 新西蘭 葡萄牙 南非 瑞士 瑞典 火雞 美國

黃金法則 “獲勝並不總是意味著成為第一。 獲勝意味著你做得比以往任何時候都好。” — 邦妮·布萊爾 你需要知道的 目標不是贏，而是執行你的計劃 你不必贏得一場比賽就能贏得系列賽 開始是比賽的80% 航行你自己的種族，避免成群結隊的船隻 遠離麻煩 每次違規立即處罰 玩得開心，享受賽車 我喜歡本頁頂部的引用。 只有一個人可以成為贏家，所以有一個目標，“做的比以往任何時候都好”。 從該網站獲取賽車的關鍵要點是什麼。 我們談論的不是專注於勝利，而是執行您的計劃。 我在年輕時發現瞭如何贏得勝利，不是專注於成為勝利者的喜悅，而是關注贏得勝利所需的所有細節。 我以正確的心態和注意力參加了一場比賽，突然間，我有生以來第一次發現自己站在了艦隊的最前面。 我做了什麼？在震驚的情況下，我想著不要失去自己的位置，不再去想細節。 你能猜到發生了什麼嗎？ 我又掉進了艦隊。 然而，一旦我建立了專注於細節的心態，我在艦隊前面的位置就確立了，我再也沒有回頭。 在系列賽中，您不必贏得每場比賽。 一致性和堅持您的計劃將為您帶來一系列最佳結果。 在一天開始之前，你永遠不知道會發生什麼，但你可以控制你能控制的， 即準備，檢查表，研究水，活動前練習等。 把細節弄對，你就會得到結果。 我怎麼強調都不為過，在航行的第一分鐘之後比賽就幾乎結束了。 是的，會有輪班和地點變化，但等級制度已經建立。 因此，如果您要練習並專注於任何事情，請專注於開始。 你不會失望的。 如果你看比賽，你會發現總是有成群的船互相干擾，鬥狗，變身等。 如果你加入一個團體，最壞的情況是你冒著發生事故和罰球的風險，最好的情況是他們會在你努力逃離人群時放慢你的速度。 你想避免這一切。 遠離麻煩，保持清醒。 這樣做，你會發現當其他水手專注於小戰鬥而忘記整體計劃時，你會找到位置。 如果您確實犯規，則必須立即轉彎，而不是在下一回合中途轉彎。 我沒有涉及的東西，可能是這個網站上最重要的項目是玩得開心。航行時，您應該在美妙的環境中享受戶外的樂趣，享受友好的玩笑和快速航行的船。 比以往任何時候都做得更好，這將是多麼愉快。

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照片由尼卡戴維斯提供 https://nikadavis.com 建造、設置、調整和比賽國際一米 (IOM) 遊艇 Latest Site News 06/01/2025 NEW SEARCH BUTTON ADDED IN TOP RIGHT CORNER OF EACH PAGE. IF YOU WANT TO FIND THE BLOG ON HIGH MODE LOW MODE OR MIXING for example, JUST TYPE THE WORD AND YOU WILL GET TO THE RELEVANT PAGES. If you enjoy this site and would like to support it for the future, click on the coffee pot and buy me a coffee. The money goes toward the Wix subscription fees and enables me to avoid hassling you with annoying adverts. This is a not for profit web site and once the sub is covered I will remove the request for support. My thanks to the 66 supporters so far. You have made a difference 介紹 去年我建造並駕駛了一艘 IOM 模型遊艇。 研究所有信息是一次曲折的旅程，作為過去的小艇世界冠軍、奧運活動家、遊艇船長和戰術家，我想深入研究 IOM 資源，以幫助我完成我的旅程。 IOM 信息散佈在整個網絡上，因此對我而言，對我所學的內容進行編目、添加我自己的賽車知識和經驗並展示我的“替代”玻璃環氧樹脂構建是有意義的。 通過將知識放入本網站並與新人和現有所有者共享，我希望它將提供寶貴的資源和捷徑，以建立在他們現有知識的基礎上。 如果我錯過了任何有價值的網站，請轉發鏈接，我會添加它。 . 有4個部分。 1 船舶製造商、帆船製造商、配件供應商等的網站目錄。 查看菜單 “有用的網站” 2 關於我在航海生涯中學到的一切的詳細信息，以及從網絡上以最快的方式繞過賽馬場的最佳技巧。 查看菜單 “賽車國際移民組織”。 我一直在添加這個主題。 3 我自己的船建造的圖片視圖。 見菜單“構建一個IOM” 4 上面菜單中的“今日思考”是我關於調整和賽車 IOM 方面的博客，並分享了我在全國范圍內開展 Britpop 活動的進展。 如果您喜歡本站或想查看其他信息，請留言 並註冊成為會員 誰是這個網站的 初學者、賽車手和業餘造船者 無線電航海新手 無論您想進入哪個班級，如果您決定沿著這條路線走，都會有關於供應商、戰術和比賽以及選擇船隻和建造注意事項的寶貴信息 IOM 水手俱樂部 通過應用一些策略、修剪筆記和更多地了解規則，您可以提高您和您的船的性能，並在您的俱樂部比賽中獲得您想要的結果。 有競爭力的賽車手 Racing an IOM 菜單中的所有信息都將是相關的，尤其是冠軍賽視頻中的觀察，以了解開始和到達艦隊第 1 個迎風段前部的細微差別。 關於作者 人們對網站的評價 “感謝 Nigel 提供出色的網站” “很高興找到您的網站 - 我是 IOM 所有權的新轉換者，所以我真的很高興能夠訪問這麼好的資源” “哇，這是一個多麼好的來源。在 YouTube 上發現後才對 IOM 感興趣。謝謝” “一個易於導航（非常重要）的資源。只有評論才會通過點擊小照片訪問更大的照片，以便查看詳細信息。” 任務完成 “作為曾經專業構建和管理大型網站的人，你做得很好。” “哦，我可以看到我在 2019 年巴西世界杯上犯了一些錯誤...... 不錯的工作 ！” “奈傑爾，傑出的努力。這些信息將幫助我們許多人。感謝您提供的所有信息 很好的資源，很實用。謝謝你付出這麼多努力！” “好工作！ 作者的最後一句話 我非常感謝您查看這個 IOMBuildSetupTuneRace 站點。 我的目標是在網站上整合和分享有關 IOM 內容的信息，並將其與我自己 35 年來的小艇賽車經驗相結合。 它是由於我無法獲得有關無線電航行的良好信息，尤其是 IOM 船隻而感到沮喪。 我曾經為一家收集日期並將其在線呈現給客戶的公司工作（當然需要支付大筆費用），因此這對我來說是合乎邏輯的步驟。 從賽車和船隻建造的角度來看，該網站現在已經完成，我希望它能夠幫助新來者和現有所有者。 下一階段是專注於比賽和觀察桅杆帆組合，以真正了解最佳設置是什麼。這是一個不斷學習的過程。 如果您還想涵蓋其他任何內容，我很樂意研究和發表。 請告訴我 . 我要請求的一項幫助是提供反饋。 他們說沒有消息就是好消息，但我想听聽你的想法。 該網站有超過 2800 名用戶，並且已經研究了超過 28 天，所以我認為這些信息是相關的。 讓我知道你的想法。 將您擁有的任何造船項目的鏈接發送給我，我會將這些鏈接添加到網站中。 我已經詳細介紹了一個環氧樹脂建築，但想參考更多的木質項目。 請盡可能廣泛地共享該站點，以便盡可能多的人受益。 這不是商業冒險，但看到用戶數量的增長確實讓我感到興奮，這是我建立這個網站的回報。 保持安全，並有一個美妙的航海年。 奈傑爾