Initial thoughts on rigs
Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler)
For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat.
Masts
There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend.
Booms
I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms.
Fittings
I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye.
Sails
As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots.
What's the best package overall
Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year?
SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond.
Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry.
How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below.
The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind.
If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can.
Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction
I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry.
Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works
關於鑽機的初步想法
一段時間以來，我一直在考慮購買哪種鑽機。以下是我目前對新船鑽機的想法和決定。
桅杆
據我所知，有 3 個管子和一個開槽設計可供選擇。 Sailsetc groovy 管、Housemartin 管和Pierre Gonnet 管。我目前擁有 Housemartin 翼樑和帆，對它們的性能非常滿意。我去年買了一個 A、B 和 C 鑽機套件，它們都具有競爭力，但是我讀到 PG 桅杆更輕，具有相似的靈活性，並且擁有帆船，知道高處的重量可以在斬波中發揮重要作用，所以我將嘗試一些並比較重量和剛度，看看它們的表現如何。在與 Potter Solutions 交談後，我們決定 15 毫米或更小是 A 鑽機的最佳預彎曲。再多一點，當您用後撐桿取出預彎曲件時，您可以通過壓縮桅杆來輕鬆扭曲梁，並在吊具和獵犬之間引入不受控制的彎曲，並在天氣晴朗時引入過多的張力。我必須承認，我總是在獵犬下方遭受一點點餓死，並想知道這是否是由預彎曲引起的。
繁榮
我選擇了 Sailsetc 的輕型懸臂臂（Easton 箭頭軸 - 2515. 25/64 英寸直徑，千分之 15 英寸壁厚），以前使用過一個，並將使用主臂的桅杆切下部分，並重新使用我當前的鵝頸管和配件.這裡的想法再次是尋找需要最輕配重的船首最輕的部分。
配件
我在 A 鑽機上使用滾子軸承鵝頸管，在 B 和 C 上使用標準鵝頸管。我使用氣動箔式吊具，但它們掛在電線上，因此很容易調節。護罩穿過桅杆前部的一個孔，裡面有一個蝴蝶結塞子。我在所有翼樑上都使用了風帆等坎寧安環，因為我的豪斯馬丁風帆既有拉夫張力又有坎寧安眼。
帆
正如我上面提到的，我用的是豪斯馬丁帆，今年剛買了一套新的 A 套。在競爭方面，我看到 BG 和 Sailboat RC（現任世界冠軍）和他們的模製帆似乎是錦標賽的首選帆，但這可能只是使用它們的水手。謝天謝地，我看到 Emsworth 的成員都有兩個帆，所以將能夠對這三個帆進行很好的比較。當然還有其他幾家帆船製造商，但這些是目前從可用數據中引起我注意的三個世界冠軍品牌，但我是這個遊戲的新手，可能錯過了很多。
什麼是最好的整體包裝
目前的觀察表明 SailboatRC 套餐，因為他們贏得了最後兩個世界賽並主導了其他賽事，但自 2011 年以來，使用 BG 裝備的 Britpop 在數量和成功方面佔據主導地位。誰將在明年的克羅地亞世界賽中佔據主導地位？
SailboatRC 是首創的模製風帆，現在擁有久經考驗的設計，誰知道他們還有什麼。我期待著看到其他風帆設計師和建造者如何回應。
懸臂幾何。這一切都在幾何中。
你們中有多少人遇到過在平靜條件下懸臂從一側或另一側彈出，從而無法航行的問題。自從我推出我的第一艘船以來，我就遇到了這個問題。我只是在上週與 Dave Potter 的討論中找到了解決方案。這一切都在幾何中。見下圖。
右邊的圖有兩個圖。 左邊是我去年用的配置。我的水蛭繩被吊具纏住了幾次我認為最好使用繩索將它系在前臂的頭部，但沒有意識到這會影響幾何形狀並導致吊臂以一種或另一種方式踢出風很小或沒有風。
如果您想看到這一點，請將前帆放好，鬆開當前的瀝水線，然後將鬆散的瀝水線系在懸臂的末端。確保繩索足夠長以到達桅杆上的入口點。將luff和浸出線置於一定的張力下。首先將水蛭線的頂部移動到桅杆右側（即船尾）一英寸左右，如圖所示，您應該看到懸臂拉入船的中心線。現在向相反方向移動水蛭線，在桅杆前方，您應該看到小臂盡可能遠離中心線。
與 Dave Potter 交談時，他告訴我，他和 Deve Creed 解決了這個問題，將吊臂拉桿和吊桿線系在自攻螺釘上，從而確保吊桿線和吊桿拉力線在完全相同的點與桅杆相交，從而允許吊臂動臂可在任何方向自由旋轉
我想了一會兒，想出了另一種使用金屬絲和蝴蝶結的解決方案。鋼絲繩和吊臂拉夫眼連接到桅杆內的蝴蝶結上。它們退出桅杆，可以將懸臂拉桿鉤在用鋼絲製成的孔眼上。兩者都在設置正確幾何形狀的同一點進入桅杆。
手指交叉這意味著在平靜的情況下，小臂可以輕鬆地從一側擺動到另一側。如果有效，我會在本週末通知您
更多關於鑽機的想法
設置的關鍵是讓桅杆彎曲與主俯仰曲線相匹配。如果您閱讀 Brad Gibson 撰寫的關於調音的文章並查看對紐約中央公園 MYC的最新採訪，那麼您將了解他的設置是多麼精確。
1 沒有大量使用 Cunningham
2 他的風帆非常光滑
3 主腳在所有條件下都設置在相同的深度
4 後拉索將僅在條件範圍內調整 2 至 4 毫米。
5 他按照自己的測量開始設置。
這裡的關鍵信息是有一個固定的設置。 BG 已經在這個遊戲中玩了很長時間，並且知道一個快速的精確設置。我們可以通過遵循他網站上的設置說明或從您航行的任何船的設計師那裡來縮短經驗學習。 Kantun 有一套類似的設置編號和設計師提供的說明，隨船一起交付。其他設計師也做過類似的事情。
請記住，如果當您的船側放時，您會遇到必須通過過多的 Cunningham 去除的主彎道上的硬點，那麼您將需要調整可用的變量以擺脫這些硬點。他們是：
桅杆是直立的
吊具角度（並檢查它們是否對稱，即您的桅杆沒有旋轉）
桅杆
護罩張力
軟化或硬化預彎
如果您仍然遇到問題，請檢查桅杆是否筆直地到達預彎點，您的預彎是漸進的，而不是突然彎曲。
當然，如果你的帆很舊，它們可能已經拉長了，很難達到完美的效果。
我將在下面向您展示我的設置。我將有一個來自 Potter Solutions 的帶有 Housemartin 帆的 PG 鑽機。設置是從你知道的地方。
在這一點上，您可能會覺得我是 BG 粉絲。這是因為他在他的網站上匯總了所有相關的設置信息，這是我在網上旅行中看到的最好的，但與 Kantun 相似。他還擁有最接近 BritPOP 的設計（替代），可用於我所擁有的家庭建造。
對於那些對桅杆重量差異感興趣的人，Housemartin 和 PG 翼梁之間存在 20 克差異。我聽說 Sailsetc sparcome 介於兩者之間。重量分別為 99 和 79 克。我還沒有對剛度進行過測量，但我相信有人做過。他們倆的感覺都很好。 A 鑽機上的預彎為 600 毫米以上 15 毫米，B 鑽機上為 40 毫米，C 鑽機上有一個。
A 和 B 鑽機都帶有清晰的標記，顯示了預彎開始的確切點。在使用船計劃中的尺寸進行標記後，我將桅杆放在一張長桌上。使用sailsetc（見圖）或類似的東西來確保孔在正確的位置。首先，我安裝了一個粉紅色的塊並對齊桅杆，使預彎與桌子完全垂直。然後，我可以鑽前孔並將所有東西對齊，知道每個孔將前後對齊或垂直對齊（在吊具的情況下）。
鵝頸管用強力膠粘在上面，然後在鵝頸管底部鑽孔並用方形的甲板補片材料固定。
吊臂只需要以與上述相同的方式鑽孔。
使用粉紅色鑽塊將預彎與吊臂、護罩、吊具和鵝頸管的孔對齊。
當天的想法 - 完成鑽機
剩下的就是將桅杆切割成合適的長度，安裝到船上，添加後撐桿和懸臂，然後完成護罩的末端。
為了將桅杆切割成合適的長度，我使用了一根插入桅杆孔的假管，並標記了下甲板和上甲板的水平以及我想要鵝頸管和下限帶的位置。它必須高於下甲板水平面不少於 60 毫米，但在替代方案上，它約為 74 毫米。然後我只是從實際桅杆的下限用假桅杆測量到底部並切割。
超級粘合桅杆頭部和腳跟配件（一旦桅杆被切割成合適的長度），所以它們不會移動。然後我將桅杆放在船上，連接起重臂和後撐桿，並按照計劃將桅杆直接安裝到耙子上。之後，我將配件連接到護罩的末端並將索具螺釘固定到船上。鑽機被輕輕拉緊，因此可以安裝主要設備並調整鑽機。
最後一項工作是找到一種方法來阻止桅杆意外旋轉。建議是使用鵝頸管。不幸的是，我使用的鵝頸管不能將桅杆完全鎖定到位，因此我必須找到另一種解決方案。 我切了一英寸的桅杆部分然後 將其切成兩半，然後用兩條粗紮線帶將其粘在桅杆底部，以阻止膠帶部分壓縮。 通過這種方式，我將桅杆鎖定在中央，並在桅杆台階上將其稍微向前推，從而使船獲得更好的平衡。
下面有幾張完成的B鑽機的圖片
請注意，我不再將電纜紮帶用作懸臂樞軸，因為它們一直在斷裂，因此我將其換成了 Sailsetc 吊臂夾，並用板鉤將繩索連接到吊臂上。 我現在處於可以升高和降低小臂的位置。
Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level
Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends.
Masthead detail
Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded
A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective.
Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool.
Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom
First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely
Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs
Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom
