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我最近在 Zing 航海網站Link Here 上發現了一篇文章，當時我正在研究未來的小艇航海網站 我特別喜歡關注 3 個問題，你應該在賽道上不斷問自己。 你在賽道上的什麼地方，你應該去哪裡？ 這個問題是關於你與你的戰術計劃的關係 成像它只是在開始之後，您處於合理的位置。 問問自己，您是否正在前往課程的有利一側，如果不是，您將如何到達那裡。 如果你在錯誤的方向被擋住了，你如何逃生到右邊。 接近迎風標記時，確保您在方位線上大頭，不要因過度而浪費距離。 在奔跑中，當您繞過吊具標記時要果斷，這樣您才能駛入晴風而不是艦隊後面的死角。 你與艦隊的關係在哪裡？ 這個問題有很多答案，所以這裡有一些場景需要考慮。 如果您要上岸，是否值得留在船隊的右側，這樣您在右舷進入時就可以控制。 在海岸線上，您可能會被永無止境的右舷船隻困住。 當您接近迎風標記時，您是否會進近，以便在區域外的右舷處轉彎，保持先行權。 在最近的一次會議上，我們有一個偏差第一拍，所以你幾乎可以從起跑線的左端開始打下第一個標記。 我沒有從最喜歡的左舷端開始，而是從線的中間開始，這讓我可以自由地先轉向，然後快速駛過航線的中間。 這讓我在艦隊前面，然後我可以自由地隨意使用右舷船的優勢。 那時我只需要關注標記的位置線。 船隊港口末端的船隻不得不等待其他船隻靠攏，許多船隻超標了。 這條線是如此的有偏見，我不必擔心在我身後的船隻前面。 你與風的關係在哪裡？ 在起跑線之外，您的戰術計劃將決定您去哪裡利用任何風彎或當地海岸效應、樹木、灌木等。 事實上，在開始之前，您應該立即查看第 1 次重要抽吸的路線，並評估它是否會提升或支持您。 您需要採取行動來解決這一問題，但請記住上述問題的答案。 如果您將您的思維過程限制在上述範圍內，那麼您將比其他在賽道上飛馳的人具有顯著的優勢。

構建插頭 過程最好 解釋者 布拉德·吉布森在他的視頻中 建造船體插頭 但 我將在下面介紹一些細微差別： 單擊任何圖片以展開圖像。 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

照片由尼卡戴維斯提供 https://nikadavis.com 建造、設置、調整和比賽國際一米 (IOM) 遊艇 Latest Site News 06/01/2025 NEW SEARCH BUTTON ADDED IN TOP RIGHT CORNER OF EACH PAGE. IF YOU WANT TO FIND THE BLOG ON HIGH MODE LOW MODE OR MIXING for example, JUST TYPE THE WORD AND YOU WILL GET TO THE RELEVANT PAGES. If you enjoy this site and would like to support it for the future, click on the coffee pot and buy me a coffee. The money goes toward the Wix subscription fees and enables me to avoid hassling you with annoying adverts. This is a not for profit web site and once the sub is covered I will remove the request for support. My thanks to the 66 supporters so far. You have made a difference 介紹 去年我建造並駕駛了一艘 IOM 模型遊艇。 研究所有信息是一次曲折的旅程，作為過去的小艇世界冠軍、奧運活動家、遊艇船長和戰術家，我想深入研究 IOM 資源，以幫助我完成我的旅程。 IOM 信息散佈在整個網絡上，因此對我而言，對我所學的內容進行編目、添加我自己的賽車知識和經驗並展示我的“替代”玻璃環氧樹脂構建是有意義的。 通過將知識放入本網站並與新人和現有所有者共享，我希望它將提供寶貴的資源和捷徑，以建立在他們現有知識的基礎上。 如果我錯過了任何有價值的網站，請轉發鏈接，我會添加它。 . 有4個部分。 1 船舶製造商、帆船製造商、配件供應商等的網站目錄。 查看菜單 “有用的網站” 2 關於我在航海生涯中學到的一切的詳細信息，以及從網絡上以最快的方式繞過賽馬場的最佳技巧。 查看菜單 “賽車國際移民組織”。 我一直在添加這個主題。 3 我自己的船建造的圖片視圖。 見菜單“構建一個IOM” 4 上面菜單中的“今日思考”是我關於調整和賽車 IOM 方面的博客，並分享了我在全國范圍內開展 Britpop 活動的進展。 如果您喜歡本站或想查看其他信息，請留言 並註冊成為會員 誰是這個網站的 初學者、賽車手和業餘造船者 無線電航海新手 無論您想進入哪個班級，如果您決定沿著這條路線走，都會有關於供應商、戰術和比賽以及選擇船隻和建造注意事項的寶貴信息 IOM 水手俱樂部 通過應用一些策略、修剪筆記和更多地了解規則，您可以提高您和您的船的性能，並在您的俱樂部比賽中獲得您想要的結果。 有競爭力的賽車手 Racing an IOM 菜單中的所有信息都將是相關的，尤其是冠軍賽視頻中的觀察，以了解開始和到達艦隊第 1 個迎風段前部的細微差別。 關於作者 人們對網站的評價 “感謝 Nigel 提供出色的網站” “很高興找到您的網站 - 我是 IOM 所有權的新轉換者，所以我真的很高興能夠訪問這麼好的資源” “哇，這是一個多麼好的來源。在 YouTube 上發現後才對 IOM 感興趣。謝謝” “一個易於導航（非常重要）的資源。只有評論才會通過點擊小照片訪問更大的照片，以便查看詳細信息。” 任務完成 “作為曾經專業構建和管理大型網站的人，你做得很好。” “哦，我可以看到我在 2019 年巴西世界杯上犯了一些錯誤...... 不錯的工作 ！” “奈傑爾，傑出的努力。這些信息將幫助我們許多人。感謝您提供的所有信息 很好的資源，很實用。謝謝你付出這麼多努力！” “好工作！ 作者的最後一句話 我非常感謝您查看這個 IOMBuildSetupTuneRace 站點。 我的目標是在網站上整合和分享有關 IOM 內容的信息，並將其與我自己 35 年來的小艇賽車經驗相結合。 它是由於我無法獲得有關無線電航行的良好信息，尤其是 IOM 船隻而感到沮喪。 我曾經為一家收集日期並將其在線呈現給客戶的公司工作（當然需要支付大筆費用），因此這對我來說是合乎邏輯的步驟。 從賽車和船隻建造的角度來看，該網站現在已經完成，我希望它能夠幫助新來者和現有所有者。 下一階段是專注於比賽和觀察桅杆帆組合，以真正了解最佳設置是什麼。這是一個不斷學習的過程。 如果您還想涵蓋其他任何內容，我很樂意研究和發表。 請告訴我 . 我要請求的一項幫助是提供反饋。 他們說沒有消息就是好消息，但我想听聽你的想法。 該網站有超過 2800 名用戶，並且已經研究了超過 28 天，所以我認為這些信息是相關的。 讓我知道你的想法。 將您擁有的任何造船項目的鏈接發送給我，我會將這些鏈接添加到網站中。 我已經詳細介紹了一個環氧樹脂建築，但想參考更多的木質項目。 請盡可能廣泛地共享該站點，以便盡可能多的人受益。 這不是商業冒險，但看到用戶數量的增長確實讓我感到興奮，這是我建立這個網站的回報。 保持安全，並有一個美妙的航海年。 奈傑爾

接下來 該網站現已完全更新。 未來的任何增加都將圍繞國民隊的賽車經驗和英國的排名賽事。 我們今年的賽事很少，期待著八月、九月和十月的忙碌結束，屆時我們將有 70 項參賽作品和 2 項排名賽事的國民參賽。 三月更新 該網站現在已經完成了我的第一個和第二個構建的描述和詳細圖片。 下一個內容將圍繞船的性能和對鑽機設置的評論。 留意圖片和賽車視頻 關於鑽機和帆的新部分。 添加了造船圖像，特別是圍繞鰭箱、前甲板和艙壁的安裝以及新造船的詳細圖片 所有屏幕都經過格式化以確保一致性和 IPAD 查看 二月更新 “有用的 IOM 網站目錄”思維導圖現在嵌入在菜單“有用的網站 ”下 “Racing an IOM”思維導圖現在嵌入在“ Racing an IOM ”菜單下，應該更容易訪問和閱讀 構建嵌入在菜單“構建 IOM ”中的 IOM 思維導圖 現在，如果您單擊圖片，您可以獲得擴展視圖 添加到圖像以鏈接到文本的參考編號。 已刪除錯別字 添加了一些供應商，並更新了“有用網站”的格式以提高可讀性 2021 年 1 月更新： 1 添加了顯示如何在主頁上導航和下載文件的視頻 2 在“Racing an IOM”思維導圖中添加戰術視頻，例如開始、迎風標記等 3 在“Racing an IOM”思維導圖中添加無線電控制部分和演示視頻 4 通過日標籤的思想每日擴展主題 5 在賽車上添加規則遊戲 IOM 思維導圖 6 分離出一個目錄，裡麵包含了 IOM 的所有東西。 這包含與 IOM 等級相關的所有協會的鏈接、社交媒體網站列表、供應商列表（造船商、鑽機和帆、配件、無線電套件和其他供應商（例如風速計、雪松條、玻璃等） 7 添加了 2009 年多年期協定手冊的鏈接。 8 個新供應商添加到“構建 IOM”思維導圖中

The DF65 Project This is the smallest boat I have ever sailed and one that took the longest to rig even thought the part and instructions are of the best quality. Of course like the DF95 ,it is a one design but like the 95 there are so many nuances that can be applied. I built the 65 in the same way I built the 95 so just look at the 95 page for the tips. Many of the tuning tips on Ken Reads 95 tuning tips can be applied to the 65. Enough has been sail about the boat in terms of build, tuning and racing, I will just highlight the key Youtube videos. DF65 DF95 Dragon Force Tuning Tips - An Australia based site with many uploads from the Australian champion. John Tushingham's DF 65 Talk at MYA AGM 2023 The sound quality is not great but it is good to hear John's tips based on observation rather than science. Dragon Sailing North America An abundance of tips from across North America

Tuning tips from one of the worlds greatest sailors, Ken Read at the Newport Model Boat Club Dragonflite 95 Spring Clinic 2024 `(Good to see he has studied the tuning tips from our 2023 Global Champion, Craig Richard s) VIDEO Synopsis For a simple one design boat, who would have thought there was so much to think about. Measure the rake multiple times a week. Rig and setup the boat at home away from any wind to make sure balance is right A rig average rake 1135. Set the backstay before measuring the rake Use a rig stick Set the mast right back at deck level. Keep the backstay the same and tighten the jib luff bowsie slightly as wind builds. Moves rake from 1135 to 1132. Only 3mm. In light weather ease backstay 2-3mm Mainsheet bridle - glue in place so ring is level with boom eye. Makes sure it is centred Jib sheet eye on boom is well forward of deck sheet eye. Main boom out just under 90. Jib boom at 90 degrees. On a windy day sheet in slightly Main halyard. Use a single line so it can swivel and set just below silver band so the sail can pivot Use cord instead of the metal sail ties Making changes. Do down wind and behind yourself. Static loads are so much higher on shore than on the water. Learn where the max bend is on the backstay and mark as a reference. When on the water if you have heavy weather or lee helm you have not got the original set up right. If you change the rake you have to change the topping lift. 2marks on topping lift, 2 marks on headstay and 1 mark on the backstay. With these marks setup is quick and easy. Jib tack. Get as close to the deck as possible Jib cunningham - never used because the sails are board flat. Deck measurements 3 marks on the deck for sheet locations. The marks run down the boom. Make a mark with the boom and then draw 3 1 inch lines on starboard side with a ruler in line with mark to jib tack. Set up consistently to those marks. Use for course tune to get rid of weather or lee helm and a repeat reference if boat is fast. Foot measurement. Use fingers. 1 to 1.5 fingers. Measure and check with your fingers Check vang sailing downwind on the water. Taping a hatch. Start at the back and work forward so you create a water ramp. It is possible to roll gybe the boat. Jib weight pushed right in to avoid getting hooked up in a crash. Tacking in a breeze, you have to let the sheets out. High mode fast mode - Ken just uses the throttle

終點 “兇猛的專注和狂熱的執行是你完成強勢所需要的。” — 加里·賴恩·布萊爾 你需要知道的 遠離麻煩 標記房間適用於完成 為下一場比賽做準備 細節 這聽起來可能很明顯，但請記住您在哪一圈完成並清楚它在哪裡。 在冠軍賽中，終點可能沒有迎風標誌，所以您不想前往迎風標誌只是為了看到其他船隻完成而您必須返回。 結束時的黃金法則是遠離麻煩。 如果有人群，請在右舷越線以避免任何可能的最後一分鐘違規。請記住，該區域適用於終點標記，因此如果您在該區域內的另一艘有通行權的船隻前面轉彎，您將沒有任何權利。 還要注意其他人的注意力可能會下降，因為他們認為比賽快結束了，所以要特別注意你周圍的船隻以及可能影響你的船隻的任何不可預測的操作 根據新規則，您只需將船頭放在線上方，但最好完全越過終點線，駛離終點線，如果您要停下船，請確保它遠離比賽。 您可能已經完成，但其他船隻仍在比賽。 如果還有另一場比賽，請立即開始準備，如果需要，將您的船駛入調整設置或更換鑽機。

獲得計劃 在查看了所有不同的設計之後，我得出結論，鑑於我完全缺乏知識，任何接近英式流行音樂的東西都必須是最佳選擇。 所以我買了替代設計 BG 網站 ，這給了我 一切 我需要建造包括正確裝備的船 設置 測量。 你在計劃中得到了什麼 設計筆記 甲板佈局 帶設備位置的甲板平面圖 從船尾基准開始的所有測量的側高 船體框架 前甲板框架 船體開口模板 桅杆索具佈置 懸臂佈置 主臂佈置 BG 網站上的另一部分是 Alternative 的佣金設置 一旦我有了所有的計劃，我就有信心我擁有建造這艘船所需的所有信息。

社交媒體 Facebook 國際一米級無線電帆船 - IOMICA 國際一米帆船 頁 無線電帆船店 MYA 無線電競賽和自由航行 林肯帆船俱樂部 IOM 木造澳大利亞 Flickr 國際移民組織圖片和視頻 Instagram #iomsailing g （您可能需要登錄您的帳戶） 互聯網 RC 小組 IOM 論壇

Protect your investment Boat Box, Rig Box and stand What you need to know Boat box made of 1/8th plywood to my own design and painted with epoxy and polyurethane left over from the boat build. Rig box is made from Correx reinforced with strip wood bonded with purpose made double sided tape Boat stand made from 20x20mm strip wood. The Details (Image 1,2 and 3) Boat Box The design is such you can lay the fin rudder and bulb in the bottom of the box on felt. The movable frames are cut out using the frame shape on the design plan. A layer of felt is added to protect the boat. Channels are cut out of the bottom of the frames for the fin bulb and rudder. The frames hold these securely in place. Once the frames are in the boat is added. The lid is designed to just touch the frames so nothing can move inside the box whichever way up it is held. 圖 4 Local Transport (image 4) To transport the boat locally when fully rigged to the club, I wrap a couple of loops of insulation foam around the hull to stop the hull resting on the boot of the car. In addition I edge the fin and rudder and bulb with the same foam. Boat support frame (Image 4) A very simple construction made out of 20x20mm strip wood and hinged with a couple of bolts. Remember to cut any excess bolt off as this can damage the fin. The boat can be sat at an angle to for rig set up. 保護您的投資 船箱、鑽機箱和支架 你需要知道的 船箱由我自己設計的 1/8 膠合板製成，並塗有船建造時遺留的環氧樹脂和聚氨酯。 鑽機盒由 Correx 製成，並用特製的雙面膠帶粘合條狀木料 船架由 20x20 毫米長條木製成。 細節（圖 1,2 和 3） 船箱 設計是這樣你可以把鰭舵和燈泡放在盒子底部的毛氈上。 使用設計平面上的框架形狀切割可移動框架。 添加了一層毛氈以保護船。 從框架底部切出用於鰭球和方向舵的通道。 框架將這些牢固地固定到位。 一旦框架在船上被添加。 蓋子設計為僅接觸框架，因此無論以何種方式向上放置，盒子內都不會移動。 本地交通（圖 4） 為了在完全裝配到俱樂部後將船運送到當地，我在船體周圍包裹了幾圈絕緣泡沫，以防止船體擱在汽車後備箱上。 此外，我用相同的泡沫對鰭、舵和燈泡進行了邊緣處理。 船用支撐架（圖 4） 一個非常簡單的結構，由 20x20mm 的條形木頭製成，並用幾個螺栓鉸接。 切記切斷任何多餘的螺栓，因為這會損壞散熱片。 船可以傾斜放置以進行鑽機設置。 帆箱（圖 5 和圖 6） 這需要一些完善，但它是製作堅固、防風雨的鑽機箱的一種非常便宜的方法。 我從這裡 買了 3 張 8 英尺 x 4 英尺 x 2 毫米的 Correx 和雙面膠帶，將條形木條粘在這裡 Correx 它非常容易切割和折疊，而且非常堅固 當在邊緣用條形木加固並固定在每個桅杆下時。 我使用用雙面膠帶粘住的筆架夾子將桅杆固定到位。 請注意，Correx 很難粘上任何東西。 上面的雙面膠帶和魔術貼粘得非常好。 總共花費 30 英鎊，如果這一張損壞了，我還有 2 張 Correx。

世界各地一些國際移民組織所有者的位置 I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.

了解您的無線電控制 作為一名玩家，你只想專注於控制可控 - Carli Lloyd 你需要知道的 如何使用發射器菜單 (Flysky i6) 如何在船上佈置電路和元件 操作和設置功能菜單 故障安全模式。 失去對船的信號。 船繞圈航行，床單放鬆。 細節 Flysky i6 設置視頻（14 分鐘） 這是一篇很長的文章，因為它解釋了無線電控制的工作原理。如果您完全了解您的無線電控制，請忽略這篇文章。否則繼續閱讀。 其他發射機品牌使用與本頁類似的術語。 這有多複雜。去年我購買無線電系統時，我有一個發射器 (Flysky i6)，帶有 4 個開關、2 個旋鈕、2 個可在它們之間移動 4 種方式的控件、4 個微調按鈕和一個帶有最初難以理解的導航菜單。很明顯，它是為駕駛飛機或直升機而設計的，但是當它本來可以如此簡單時，卻花了很長時間才弄清楚如何設置 2 通道操作。 將鑽頭（接收器、開關、絞盤、伺服器）放在船上稍微簡單一點，儘管我確實必須學習如何使用烙鐵，這樣我才能用更大的 XT30U 連接器替換接收器式連接器，這些連接器在惡劣的環境中更加堅固. 所以按照RG Winch 指南 ，我的佈局如下。 1600 mA LIPO 電池連接到安裝在前甲板後艙壁上的開關上。開關連接到 RG 絞盤，然後連接到 6 通道接收器的第 3 通道。接收器上的通道 1 為舵機保留。接收器的電源通過通道 3 運行，因此接收器電池插槽是空的。 一旦全部連接好，基本操作就很容易了。我左右移動右手撥動以移動自動居中的方向舵，左手撥動上下移動以控制板料。後者（工作表）切換保持在您放置的位置。到目前為止一切順利，但你如何進行微調。 打開您的發射器和船用電池並進入菜單。但我怎麼聽到你問。 屏幕回亮。片刻後指示燈熄滅。您需要按 ON 使屏幕亮起，然後按住 ON 直到您看到 SYSTEM 和 SETUP。 當您在 Flysky i6 上打開 MENU 時，您有兩個選項，FUNCTION 或 SETUP。我們對 SETUP 感興趣，您可以通過按一次 UP 或 DOWN 鍵進入。有兩頁功能。我只會介紹與航行相關的內容。它們是終點、顯示、子修剪、雙倍率/指數。 END POINTS 允許您設置方向舵運動和極限位置的限制（風和跑步困難） 將方向舵保持在 100%。使用 ON 按鈕而不是 UP 和 DOWN 按鈕調整通道 3（Sheeting）。 UP 和 DOWN 按鈕允許您調整百分比數字以微調片材。將您的船裝好船帆，並在吊桿剛接觸護罩的情況下將帆布調整為順風，然後在吊桿偏離中心線幾毫米的情況下將帆布捲入順風中。一旦快樂保存您的設置，按住取消按鈕保存它們。這將帶您返回上一個菜單。一旦完成，每當您用力纏繞床單時，它總會將吊桿（主臂和副臂）纏繞到同一個位置。 如果您遇到問題，例如像我一樣方向舵沒有返回中心的問題，則 DISPLAY 很有用。三個月來，我的舵有自己的想法。有時它會居中，有時它會向左居中幾度，然後向右居中，但總是以隨機的方式。它使船無法航行，我認為船上有問題。 3 個舵機之後（好吧，我認為它們是問題所在）並且在對 You Tube 進行了一些研究之後，我從發射器上取下背面，發現一根電線未對準並壓在方向舵萬向節上。這導致了問題，快速重新調整永遠解決了這個問題。線索在“顯示”菜單中，您可以清楚地看到方向舵被電線固定在一側或另一側。終於，我有了一條可以直線行駛的船。 微調 副配平讓您可以微調方向舵或床單。它與舵桿下方和操縱桿左側的微調按鈕執行相同的功能。在每次比賽之前，我都將船沿直線航行，並鬆開帆以查看船的軌跡是否筆直。如果沒有，我會微調方向舵直到它出現，然後在比賽期間離開它。使用 ON 按鈕上下移動菜單。請記住，通道 1 是方向舵按鈕，而通道 3 用於工作表控制。 雙倍率/經驗 總之，這允許您改變方向舵的運動範圍，並使轉向范圍中心的轉向不那麼敏感，這有助於避免在緊張情況下轉向過度。您會在左側看到一個帶有 Ch1、rate 和 EXP 的面板，右側有四個帶有一條線的框。使用 ON 按鈕上下移動菜單。使用速率設置限制方向舵運動的範圍。它默認為 100，因此將範圍縮小到適合您的範圍。 EXP 調節轉向的靈敏度。單擊向下按鈕讀取 -100 並查看這對您的方向舵的影響。您應該會發現舵桿的微小移動對舵的影響很小，但是當您將舵桿移向范圍的極限時，舵會轉動得更快。調整 EXP 值以適合您控制船隻的風格。 最後，您可以設置兩次。左上角的開關允許您進行航線設置或直線航行的微調設置。您可以通過拉下左上方的開關來完成此操作，您將看到設置發生變化。嘗試將方向舵 RATE 調整為 30，看看會發生什麼。請記住按住 CANCEL 按鈕幾秒鐘保存設置。 故障保護 如果您的發射器電池電量耗盡或失去信號，您可以將船設置為在放鬆床單的情況下繞圈航行。 在系統菜單上，向下滾動至 RX SETUP 菜單，單擊確定，然後向下滾動至 FAILSAFE 並單擊確定。在通道 1 上，您可以設置方向舵位置。使用頻道 1 屏幕左側的箭頭單擊“確定”。 在 FAILSAFE 模式下，將方向舵操縱桿移動到您想要的位置。 按住 CANCEL 直到聽到嗶聲。 按向下按鈕以同樣的方式進入通道 3 和單帆。 按住取消 直到您聽到嗶聲並重複以保存設置並返回菜單。 您可以通過關閉發射機在水上進行測試，看看會發生什麼。 當您完成所有這些操作後，您就可以開始航行了，您只需在每次下水時稍作微調即可。