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The new optimised Alternative boat build When I play golf, if I drive off the tee and lose my ball because of an errant swing, why is it that my second attempt is nearly always perfect making me wonder why didn't I swing like that on my first shot! It's kind of like that when you build a second boat. The first attempt is full of small errors, air bubbles, lifted glass at the bow and stern, too much epoxy used, etc. The second boat has errors but it is much better and lighter. I started the second boat yesterday afternoon and unwrapped it this morning and what a beauty she looks. If you are interested, here is what I did with a few pictures. I started by repairing the old hull plug, patching up some damage when I cut the previous boat off the plug with a dremel. After a rub down and 5 coats of release wax it was good as new and ready for the layup. I cut out 3 sheets of 124gm S glass from a paper pattern I made earlier. I acquired 3 sheets of brown paper which were from a delivery of an old flower arrangement (my wife's!). With care, I cut the glass cloth straight onto the brown paper from the paper pattern I made earlier. The cloth was cut with no mess. In addition to the cutting, I drew a centre line with a felt pen and perpendicular lines (to the centreline) for the bow, stern and edge of the foredeck. This is done to allow easy alignment (when laying down the cloth onto the plug) with a centreline drawn down the keel of the hull along with a mark to indicate the foredeck. The brown paper not only seperated the 3 layers of cloth but also allows the cloth to be rolled up and carried as well as protecting the edges, keeping the cloth flat and clean. (Image 1) Last summer on the first boat build, I cut the glass outside on a table, did not use any paper or protective cover and ended up with strands of glass fibre all over the patio! With the cloth prepared, I was ready to lay the hull up in the garden shed. Yesterday it was about 12 degrees which is just warm enough to work with epoxy. I needed a workbench to clamp the hull upside down (Image 4), a piece of wood hanging from the shed ceiling to screw the plug support post to work on the deck (Image 3), paper towel to wipe up mess, acetone for cleaning, nitril gloves to protect my hands, West System epoxy (slow cure), three plastic pots (I use fromage frais pots), a 2 inch paint brush and an aluminium roller for removing air bubbles, peel ply for wrapping the epoxy, screwdriver and electric drill for mounting and dismounting the plug. With all the bits together on site, I was ready to go. After mixing the epoxy using the self measuring plungers that you screw on the resin and hardener tins (3 pushes of the plunger will do one layer of glass) I applied resin to the hull side of the plug, being careful to wet the curves of the deck. The epoxy will not lie smooth on the wax and will pull back into globules looking a bit messy but it won't matter. Taking the first layer of cloth and with the boat mounted upside down on the workbench, hold it over the hull aligning the centreline, bow, stern and foredeck marks before laying the cloth down on the epoxied plug. (Image 2 3 and 4) Gently smooth out the cloth with the paint brush and work out from the centre until the cloth is flat all over. This is quite fiddly but by taking time and being patient the cloth will lay out perfectly. Next step is to go over the cloth with the paint brush (be very gentle) and wetting the cloth where dry, removing air bubbles as you go. Use the epoxy sparingly as excess resin just adds weight. Finally go over the hull with the aluminium roller to get any missed air bubbles. Now remove the plug from the workbench and screw to the bar dropping from the shed ceiling. Initially fix the hull upside down and then carefully allow the plug to rotate down while supporting the cloth over the deck, until the deck is level. (In my first build last summer, I picked the plug from the workbench after wetting the cloth on the hull, rotated it so the deck was uppermost, raised it up to the supporting bar and the glass cloth fell off onto the floor. You have been warned!) Before you work the cloth into the deck with the paintbrush, cut away any excess. On the first layer I used a 1 inch overlap. On the second layer, I butt the ends of the cloth (ie no overlap) and on the third layer use an overlap again. In this way you avoid too much weight along the centreline of the deck. On my first boat I ended up with 6 layers of cloth on the centreline which produced a strong boat but heavy in the ends. Work the cloth into the deck with the paint brush in the same way as the hull, until flat and smooth. Sorry there are no pictures of this as my gloves were coated in epoxy at the time! Check over the hull and deck in good light to make sure there are no air bubbles and the cloth is tightly bonded at the bow and stern. Leave the plug until the epoxy remaining in your mixing jug starts to go stringy. When this happens, the first layer of cloth will be stuck nicely to the plug and won't move when you apply the second layer. The longer you can leave it between layers the better. Half an hour should be long enough. Wash your paint brush, gloves and roller in acetone and mix the second batch of epoxy. Bin the 1st mixing pot. For the second layer, drape the cloth over the hull taking care with the alignment marks and brush out as before using just enough epoxy to wet the cloth. Repeat for the third layer remembering to clean tools in between. I use four plunges of epoxy for the last layer because I wanted the outer layer slightly wetter. Any excess would be absorbed by the peel ply. Finally wrap in peel ply. I used 10 metres of 100mm wide. Overkill I know but it did an amazing job even though the hull look a bit mummy like. (Image 5) At the same time as laying up the hull, I made the components in Image 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 and 18. The fin box was Dave Creed's work. A thin sheet for the bow stern and bulkheads The mould for the deck layout above the fin box and final deck Strip of S glass for bonding the deck Reinforcement for the fordeck understanding the jib tack eyes The radio pot and forward bulkhead Paper template for forward bulkhead I peeled the peel ply off this morning to discover a hull with no air bubbles, perfect adhesion at the bow, stern and foredeck. In all the process took about 3 hours All I need now are two coats of epoxy primer rubbed smooth and I am ready to pop the hull off the plug. Here is the rough finish prior to sanding The finished hull popped off the mould safely in its supporting jig with the deck taped together to hold it secure It all looks good and I know that the hull is useable so I can pay the second design fee and fit the boat out. Having added two coats of epoxy primer, it is time to rub it all back to the surface of the S glass to make the hull as light and as smooth as possible. Up to two hours sanding. Joy! but the end result is worth the effort. After painting on 250gms of High build epoxy primer, I sanded 200gms off on Saturday. The result is a very light smooth hull which you can see through. The hull will remain in this condition until the deck has been finished and all the holes drilled. Then it is time for the vinyl wrap in metallic blue. Can't wait to see how it ends up when cut off the mould. Once the hull is off the mould it goes straight into a support jig, with the frames cut from the design plan. This jig is marked and used for setting the fin position and rudder. (Image 7) The foredeck and aft deck is bonded using 1 layer of 124gm s cloth (Image 13). The hull is strong and ready for the fin box, bulkhead and adjoining deck and radio pot to be bonded in. On Sunday I cut all the access holes, (Image 33) and added two further layers of S glass around the fin box area in the hull, bonded the deck with an extra layer of S glass at the jib take off point and fitted the transom I put small reinforcing plates in the deck at the stern and put 1 layer of S glass about 1 inch wide down the centre of the foredeck. All up weight of the hull with all glass infrastructure but ex fitting will be around 400gms, considerably lighter than my first hull especially in the ends but heavier than the professional hulls. Having said that the hull is very strong, light in the ends and should be competitive. Todays job is to fit the fin, bulkhead, deck moulding and radio pot and a post for the jib tack take off point. On course to finished hull by end of week. A long day sealing the bow and stern, (Image 18 and 19) strengthening the foredeck, building an ultra light foredeck post (Image 14), cutting a slot in the hull (Image 21), measuring and shaping the forward bulkhead (Image 15 and 16) , fin case and deck. Lots of pictures below in a slightly random order. Tomorrow I hope to bond in all the pieces and then the only other major jobs are to fit the plates for the servo and rudder stock which will likely be done on Wednesday. Then a final rub down and drill all the holes for the deck fittings. Finally after that I can wrap the boat in its metallic blue vinyl. Its an experiment but I am sure it will be worth the effort and if it doesn't work I can always paint it. Fitting the fin Yesterday was all about getting the fin box fitted. Alignment of the fin in exactly the right position with the design measurements and having it vertical is the most critical job on the boat. Get this wrong and the boat will be hard to balance and may sail higher on one tack that the other. The boat in my jig is set up to be level on its water line, ie there is a horizontal line connection the bottom of the bow and bottom of the stern. The leading edge of the fin sits perpendicular to this line. Get the jig right and everything is easy. On the plan there are two measurements, one from the hull to the leading edge of the fin and then one from the tip of the bow to the bottom of the fin where it enters the bulb. Set these measurements and the fin leading edge should be perpendicular tp the waterline of the boat. I was less than a degree out. See image 24-27. To get the fin exactly vertical looking from the stern, I level the boat at the shroud point and use a level on the fin to make vertical and then use masking tape to secure it. Gravity helps in picture 27. The string in the picture is used to measure from the bow to the fin but I did have to make holes in the jig. Tomorrow, I can fit the final pieces of the deck and the bulkhead. Finishing the bonding Yesterday was gluing day. Fitted the forward deck, pre drilled bulkhead, radio pot holder and mainsheet post. Only one small error. I forgot to seal and reinforce the top of the fin box I have the fiddliest job to do that today plus final fit for the servo mount and rudder stock mount. Nest jobs are to pre drill all the fitting holes, apply filler where required and final sand ready to apply wrap. When fitting the mainsheet post, I accurately measured a centreline at the deck and then did the same with a string 6 inches off the deck. Then using a set square I was able to get the mainsheet post upright and aligned with the fin case, back stay, jib sheet eyes and jib attachment points which are all marked up. Fingers crossed the sails will set the same on both tacks. Hull weight so far is 420gms. Old hull weight at this point 620gms. Maybe 350gms is achievable with a slightly thinner layup. I was generous with the epoxy at the base of the fin but this is where the correctors with be anyway. Estimate approx 400gms of correctors will be required. Tidying up Final bit of reinforcement went in yesterday. Not much to show as boat looks similar to day before but with addition of rudder stock and servo supports. Giving the hull a good t cut to look for any rough spots and then the metallic blue wrap Little remaining jobs to do after the wrap like final fit of fin and add the electronics and fittings Finished the build With the final jobs knocked off on Friday the hull is ready for wrapping. I spent today sanding and cleaning the hull and deck, final fit of the fin and rudder which ended up exactly according to the design plans and are both in line with each other. Tomorrow will be wrapping day. Ordered the new PG tubes from Potters Solutions and a couple of bits and bobs from Sailsetc. Once the boat is wrapped I can set up the new rigs using existing fittings apart from the shrouds. Then a bit of in house tuning and I am ready to get on the water. Its not a wrap The wrap failed. There is so much curvature in the hull and deck, you need to stretch the wrap so much before application and you need several pairs of hands, so it's back to the paint spraying. The boat is finished bar the spray and as Mr Gibson said you are far better off with paint as damaged vinyl is impossible to repair. He should know he used to wrap 18 footers amongst other things. Why didn't I speak to him first. The dream was there, the experience was missing. Loved the metallic finish but it is not to be. Onwards and upwards and off to watch the 18 footers race round Sydney harbour in the JJ Giltinan. On the computer of course Decision time on paint It has been a long process trying to sort the paint for the boat. I could use my tried and tested 2 pack polyurethane which I know is hard durable and the right solution, but I do want to spray to keep the decks looking smart. As you know I tried using vinyl wrap but the curves of the boat proved too much. The search took me to spray cans of epoxy, enamel and other finishes but I came across an industrial acrylic based paint in a spray can. It is designed for repair of industrial coatings indoor or external. Its a risk I know but I prepared a sample this afternoon and it has great colour, is hard, flexible, great UV properties and resistant to scratches. The date sheet is here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf So on it goes tomorrow and we will see how the paint performs. The pictures below show the new spray look on a sample and the effect I am trying to avoid when painting 2 pack Polyurethane. I will show you the result tomorrow and then see how it wears when we get sailing. 新優化的替代船建造 當我打高爾夫球時，如果我因為錯誤的揮桿而從開球檯上開球丟了球，為什麼我的第二次嘗試總是完美的讓我想知道為什麼我在第一次擊球時沒有這樣揮桿！ 當你建造第二艘船時，這有點像。第一次嘗試充滿了小錯誤、氣泡、船首和船尾的玻璃升起、使用了過多的環氧樹脂等。 昨天下午我開始了第二條船，今天早上打開它，她看起來很漂亮。如果你有興趣，這是我用幾張照片做的。 我首先修理舊的船體插頭，當我用 Dremel 從插頭上切下前一條船時修補了一些損壞。擦拭並塗上 5 層脫模蠟後，它就像新的一樣好，可以上籃了。 我從我之前製作的紙樣上剪下 3 張 124 克 S 玻璃。我買了 3 張牛皮紙，它們是從舊花束（我妻子的！）的交付中獲得的。我小心地將玻璃布直接剪到我之前製作的紙樣上的棕色紙上。布被剪得一塵不染。除了切割之外，我還用氈筆劃了一條中心線，並為船頭、船尾和前甲板的邊緣繪製了垂直線（到中心線）。這樣做是為了便於（將布鋪在塞子上時）與沿船體龍骨繪製的中心線以及指示前甲板的標記輕鬆對齊。牛皮紙不僅將三層布隔開，還可以將布捲起攜帶，同時保護邊緣，保持布面平整、清潔。 （圖 1） 去年夏天，在第一艘船建造時，我在桌子上切割了外面的玻璃，沒有使用任何紙或保護罩，最後在露台上佈滿了玻璃纖維！ 布準備好後，我準備將船體放在花園棚子裡。昨天大約是 12 度，剛好足以與環氧樹脂一起工作。我需要一個工作台把船體倒過來夾住（圖 4），一塊木頭掛在棚子天花板上，用來擰緊插頭支撐柱在甲板上工作（圖 3），紙巾擦乾淨，丙酮清潔, 用於保護雙手的丁腈手套、West System 環氧樹脂（緩慢固化）、三個塑料罐（我使用的是 fromage frais 罐）、一個 2 英寸的油漆刷和一個用於去除氣泡的鋁輥、用於包裹環氧樹脂的剝離層、螺絲刀和用於安裝和拆卸插頭的電鑽。 現場準備好所有東西後，我就準備好了。使用自測柱塞混合環氧樹脂後，擰在樹脂和硬化劑罐上（3 次推柱塞將形成一層玻璃），我將樹脂塗在塞子的船體側，小心弄濕了甲板。環氧樹脂不會在蠟上光滑，並且會拉回看起來有點凌亂的小球，但沒關係。取第一層布並將船倒掛在工作台上，將其放在船體上方，對齊中心線、船首、船尾和前甲板標記，然後將布鋪在環氧樹脂塞上。 （圖 2 3 和 4） 用油漆刷輕輕撫平布，從中心開始工作，直到布整面平整。這很繁瑣，但通過花時間和耐心，布料會完美地佈置。下一步是用油漆刷（非常輕柔）在布上擦拭，然後在乾燥的地方弄濕布，邊走邊去除氣泡。謹慎使用環氧樹脂，因為多餘的樹脂只會增加重量。最後用鋁製滾輪越過船體，以消除任何遺漏的氣泡。 現在從工作台上取下塞子，然後擰到從棚頂掉下來的桿上。最初將船體倒置固定，然後小心地讓塞子向下旋轉，同時將布支撐在甲板上，直到甲板水平。 （在去年夏天的第一次構建中，我在弄濕船體上的布後從工作台上拿起塞子，旋轉它使甲板在最上面，將其升到支撐桿上，玻璃布掉到地板上。你有被警告了！） 在用畫筆將布塗到甲板上之前，切掉任何多餘的部分。在第一層上，我使用了 1 英寸的重疊。在第二層，我對接布的末端（即沒有重疊），在第三層再次使用重疊。通過這種方式，您可以避免沿著甲板中心線承受過多的重量。在我的第一艘船上，我最終在中心線上鋪了 6 層布，這使得船很結實，但兩端很重。 用油漆刷以與船體相同的方式將布塗到甲板上，直到平整光滑。抱歉，沒有照片，因為當時我的手套塗有環氧樹脂！ 在光線充足的情況下檢查船體和甲板，確保沒有氣泡，並且佈在船頭和船尾處牢固粘合。 留下塞子，直到混合罐中剩餘的環氧樹脂開始變得粘稠。發生這種情況時，第一層布會很好地粘在插頭上，並且在塗抹第二層時不會移動。層與層之間放置的時間越長越好。半小時應該夠長了。 用丙酮清洗油漆刷、手套和滾筒，然後混合第二批環氧樹脂。將第一個攪拌鍋裝箱。 對於第二層，將布覆蓋在船體上，注意對準標記，並像以前一樣刷掉，使用足夠的環氧樹脂潤濕布。 重複第三層，記住清潔中間的工具。我在最後一層使用四滴環氧樹脂，因為我希望外層稍微濕潤。任何多餘的部分都會被剝離層吸收。 最後用剝離層包裹。我用了 10 米的 100 毫米寬。我知道矯枉過正，但即使船體看起來有點像木乃伊，它也做得很好。 （圖 5） 同時我製作了圖 8. 9. 10. 14、15 和 18 中的組件。 鰭箱是 Dave Creed 的作品。 我今天早上剝掉了剝離層，發現船體沒有氣泡，船頭、船尾和前甲板的附著力很好。 整個過程耗時約3小時 我現在需要的是兩層環氧底漆擦得光滑，我準備把船體從插頭上拆下來。 （圖 6 和 7） 如果一切看起來不錯並且我知道船體可以使用，我就可以支付設計費並將船安裝好。 添加了兩層環氧底漆後，是時候將其全部擦回 S 玻璃表面，使船體盡可能輕巧和光滑。長達兩個小時的打磨。喜悅！但最終的結果是值得的。 在塗上 250 克厚底環氧底漆後，週六我用砂紙打磨了 200 克。結果是一個非常輕且光滑的船體，您可以看到它。 船體將保持這種狀態，直到甲板完成並鑽完所有孔為止。然後是時候用金屬藍色包裹乙烯基了。迫不及待地想看看它在切斷模具時的結局。 一旦船體脫離模具，它就會直接進入支撐夾具，框架從設計計劃中切割出來。 該夾具被標記並用於設置鰭位置和方向舵。 （圖 7） 前甲板和後甲板使用 1 層 124 克布粘合（圖 13）。船體很堅固，可以將鰭箱、艙壁和相鄰的甲板和無線電罐粘合在一起。 週日，我切掉了所有的檢修孔，（圖 33）並在船體的鰭箱區域周圍再添加了兩層 S 玻璃，在懸臂起飛點將甲板與額外的一層 S 玻璃粘合在一起，並安裝了橫梁 我在船尾的甲板上放了一些小的加強板，並在前甲板的中央放了一層大約 1 英寸寬的 S 玻璃。 帶有所有玻璃基礎設施的船體總重量約為 400 克，比我的第一個船體輕得多，尤其是在兩端，但比專業船體重。話雖如此，船體非常堅固，兩端很輕，應該具有競爭力。 今天的工作是安裝尾翼、艙壁、甲板成型件和無線電罐以及懸臂大頭釘起飛點的支柱。在本週末完成船體的過程中。 密封船首和船尾的漫長一天，（圖 18 和 19）加強前甲板，建造超輕型前甲板柱（圖 14），在船體上切槽（圖 21），測量和塑造前艙壁（圖 15）和 16) ，鰭箱和甲板。下面有很多圖片，順序略有隨機。 明天我希望將所有部件粘合在一起，然後唯一的其他主要工作是安裝伺服和舵桿的板，這可能會在周三完成。然後最後擦拭並鑽出甲板配件的所有孔。最後，我可以用金屬藍色乙烯基包裹船。這是一個實驗，但我相信它是值得的，如果它不起作用，我總是可以畫它。 安裝鰭 昨天是關於安裝鰭箱。將尾翼與設計尺寸準確對齊並使其垂直是船上最關鍵的工作。弄錯了，船將很難平衡，並且可能會在一個方向上航行得比另一個方向高。 我的夾具中的船在其吃水線上設置為水平，即有一條水平線連接船頭底部和船尾底部。鰭的前緣垂直於這條線。獲得正確的夾具，一切都很容易。在平面圖中有兩種測量值，一種是從船體到尾翼前緣，另一種是從船首尖端到尾翼進入燈泡的底部。設置這些測量值，鰭前緣應垂直於船的吃水線。我還不到一個學位。 見圖 24-27。 為了使鰭從船尾完全垂直，我在護罩點調平船，並在鰭上使用水平儀使其垂直，然後使用膠帶將其固定。 重力有助於圖 27。 圖中的繩子用於測量從弓到鰭的長度，但我確實必須在夾具上打孔。 明天，我可以安裝甲板和艙壁的最後部分。 完成綁定 昨天是塗膠日。安裝前甲板、預鑽孔隔板、無線電鍋架和主板柱。 只有一個小錯誤。我忘了密封和加固鰭箱的頂部 今天我有最繁瑣的工作要做，加上最後適合伺服支架和舵桿支架。嵌套工作是預先鑽出所有的裝配孔，在需要的地方塗抹填充物，最後準備好鋪沙。 在安裝主板柱時，我準確地測量了甲板的中心線，然後用離甲板 6 英寸的繩子做同樣的事情。然後使用固定的正方形，我能夠使主板立柱直立並與鰭箱、後撐桿、懸臂板孔和懸臂連接點對齊，這些都已標記。手指越過帆將在兩個大頭釘上設置相同。 到目前為止，船體重量為 420 克。此時的舊船體重量為 620 克。也許 350gms 可以通過稍微更薄的上層實現。我對鰭底部的環氧樹脂很慷慨，但這就是校正器所在的地方。估計需要大約 400 克的校正器。 整理 昨天進行了最後一點加固。沒什麼可展示的，因為船看起來與前一天相似，但增加了舵桿和伺服支撐。對船體進行良好的切割以尋找任何粗糙點，然後是金屬藍色包裝 包裹後幾乎沒有剩餘的工作要做，例如鰭的最終安裝並添加電子設備和配件。 完成構建 隨著周五最後的工作結束，船體準備好包裝。我花了今天打磨和清潔船體和甲板，最後安裝鰭和舵，最終完全按照設計計劃完成並且彼此一致。明天將是包裝日。 從 Potters Solutions 訂購了新的 PG 鑽機，從 Sailsetc 訂購了一些零碎的東西。一旦船被包裹起來，我就可以使用除護罩之外的現有配件來設置新的鑽機。然後進行一些內部調整，我準備好上水了。 它不是一個包裝 包裹失敗。船體和甲板的曲率如此之大，您需要在應用前將包裹物拉得如此之多，而且您需要幾雙手，所以又回到了噴漆。 這艘船已經完成了噴霧，正如吉布森先生所說，你最好塗上油漆，因為損壞的乙烯基無法修復。他應該知道他過去常常將 18 英尺長的東西包裹起來。為什麼我不先和他說話。 夢想在那裡，經驗卻不見了。喜歡金屬飾面，但事實並非如此。 在 JJ Giltinan 的悉尼海港周圍觀看 18 英尺長的足球比賽。當然是在電腦上 油漆決定時間 為船挑選油漆是一個漫長的過程。我可以使用我久經考驗的 2 包聚氨酯，我知道它堅固耐用並且是正確的解決方案，但我確實想噴灑以保持甲板看起來很漂亮。如您所知，我嘗試使用乙烯基包裹物，但事實證明船的曲線太多了。 搜索使我噴塗了環氧樹脂、搪瓷和其他飾面的罐頭，但我在噴霧罐中發現了一種工業丙烯酸塗料。它設計用於修復室內或室外的工業塗層。我知道這是一個風險，但我今天下午準備了一個樣品，它有很好的顏色，堅硬、柔韌、抗紫外線性能好並且抗划痕。日期表在這裡： http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf 所以明天繼續，我們將看到油漆的表現。下圖顯示了樣品上的新噴塗外觀以及我在噴塗 2 件裝聚氨酯時試圖避免的效果。明天我會告訴你結果，然後看看我們航行時它的磨損情況。 電池問題 船體裝配完成，龍骨和方向舵完美對齊。當我去測試電子設備時，我開始給電池充電，並立即註意到它正在膨脹。因為有關於電池爆炸的有趣故事，所以我將電池取出到外面。還有兩個訂單。直到下週新的“PG 晶石和電池”到貨，進度才會停止。 請注意，如果您有一段時間沒有為 Lipo/lifo 電池充電，請留意它們。如果它們顯示出擴張的跡象，請將它們帶出房子。 在收音機罐裡面 我閱讀了Darren Paulic 在 Facebook RC Sailing Group 上發表 的一篇文章，可在此處找到。無線電控制在鹽水中航行。 在文章中，Darren 談到了讓您的電器遠離水並用凡士林或矽脂覆蓋的重要性。 他在他的電池和接收器的底部放了一層氯丁橡膠，使它們遠離收音機鍋的底部，以防止它們進水。我想了一個簡單整潔的解決方案，發現你可以使用粘性背面魔術貼，就像你知道的那樣粘住，甚至是 Correx，以保持電池和伺服組件分開並遠離鍋底。您還可以在接收器電線的末端放一小塊，使它們彼此保持 90 度角，以獲得最佳的無線電信號性能。請記住將電池放置在船的中心線上。 圖 38 和 39。 絞盤有問題，還是操作員錯誤 （圖 40） 首先向 Bill Green (RMG UK) 致以崇高的敬意，他提供超級服務，並且能夠快速回複查詢。當我拆卸並重新組裝我的無線電設備轉移到新船上時，我無法弄清楚為什麼當我轉動絞盤上的發射器轉了一圈時。關閉發射器，它返回到原來的位置。打電話給比爾應該可以解決這個問題。他正確地說我應該按照我以前沒有的手冊對絞盤限制進行編程，看看會發生什麼。我這樣做了，但沒有解決問題。 呃，我終於想起來了。在 Emsworth 訓練變焦上，他們的無線電天才理查德·巴拉斯 (Richard Ballas) 說要在發射器上設置故障安全模式。這使您可以在船上設置方向舵和床單，以便在船失去無線電信號時它會繞圈而不是駛向遠處。幾週前我已經設置了它，但忘記了它會做什麼。每次我關閉發射器時，床單會放鬆一圈半，方向舵轉動 25 度。打開發射器，板和舵返回到原來的位置。問題解決了，現在我要做的就是在完全裝配時微調絞盤設置。 目前的權重： 裸殼塗漆 460 克 配件和 RC 373gms 舵 32gms 燈泡和翅片 2500 克 鑽機估計 235 至 300 克 因此估計 365 到 400 克校正器。 這艘船盡顯榮耀。 Next Section Build the rigs

活動前 確定 你的 航海目標 了解你的 賽車規則和戰術 謹慎管理您的投資 船隻維修 向右快速航行 船隻調整和設置 了解您的無線電控制 有效的 船練習 確保使用一致的設置 檢查清單 知道如何 天氣 會幫助你 有用 參考

The finished product 最終結果

Working up the Alioth. Boat 1 This journey with the Alioth is not about 3d printing but about working up a boat to make it competitive. My objective with the Alioth project was to work the boat up in stages and see how speed developed. There was no speed edge to start with in fact the opposite was true to start with as there were some deficiencies in the set up, but confidence is building as I optimise the boat and I see it get faster. First a caveat on the story below. If I was to do the same again, I would have bought the fins from Juan and fitted them as standard. This would give me a balanced boat. I saw the new fins fitted on a new Alioth at the end of 2024 and I have to say I was totally impressed. Save yourself a lot of trouble and go with Juan for the full boat and foil package. You won't regret it. The kit on the boat Alioth hull in Polymer PLA assembled by Paul Barton. The hull is so strong you can give it a good punch with a fist. Alioth standard fins (these were early generation fins) Winch is RMG fast 290 H1 with 45mm spiral drum Spars are PG 11mm Roller bearing gooseneck on A rig Coreless 20g Digital Metal Gear Dual Bearing Mini Rudder Servo - DFMGD1 BG Sails The Journey Now the boat is close to full race mode. It has been an interesting journey to race a vanilla standard boat, no finishing on the hull just a clear coat or 2 and no sanding. All the rigs were set with the boom band at 150mm from the step which made for a rather ugly look with the booms high and pointing up in the air slightly. The look wasn't improved on the A rig with a prebend in the mast that was more like a kink than a smooth bend and made the boat very hard to set up and sail. It did not have an edge as you can imagine. After the Hampton Court charity day, I trashed the A rig and converted it to a B rig. Then I carefully prebent a new A mast and set it up with 62mm spreaders. The result was an impressive looking BG mainsail which could be set twisty and deep for a chop or flat for a breeze on flat water. There were no hard spots causing any creases in the luff as the mast bend matched the luff curve. The challenge with prebending devices is that you can get an immediate bend at the 600mm point. The bend needs to be progressive and other than bending by hand I know of no device that can achieve this. If anyone knows a way, please advise me how it is done. The A rig mast bend matches the luff curve with no hard spots. This is the limit of bend before the sail breaks down. This Mainsail was first use in 2020 and used for practice over the last year. Pretty impressive duration and still looks superb. All three rigs had 15mm taken off the bottom of the mast to bring the boom band to the deck. It is still 70mm or so from the measuring point on the deck. I needed to shortened the gooseneck housing to lift the kicker adjuster off the deck so I could get my fingers in to adjust. Here you can just see the rake of the fin and mast and how the boom band sits just above the deck. FIngers crossed it will be perfectly balanced The jib attachment point was lowered so the jib boom is as close to the deck as possible. There has been quite a bit of discussion about end plate effects which I do not buy into because as soon the boat heels or gets into chop, the wind is blocked and disturbed by the hull turbulence. However with the jib boom low and the main boom low and parallel to the deck, the centre of effort of the sails is as low as possible. The look is good and a good looking boat is often fast. Time will tell. You cannot achieve a main boom parallel to the deck on the standard Alioth settings. The mast is too upright and if you try raking the mast you just create weather helm. To achieve the mast rake the fin has to be raked back approximately 2 degrees. Using a standard Alioth fin I shaved 2 degrees off the aft edge of the fin where it enters the fin box and added a front edge fillet using Isopon car filler making for a nice secure fit. The 2 degrees was measured with a protractor acquired in my university days. Remember to adjust the bulb angle, 2 degrees up from back to front should do it. Of course if you rake the fin 2 degrees, you move the bulb back 8mm relative to the hull which will effect the position of the correctors. When I first launched with this configuration, I removed the correctors to see how the boat would sit and was delighted to see it sat on its marks, so I added the 70gm of correctors back on the aft side of the fin box, considerably forward of their original position. The final job was to finish the hull. I had two choices. Either sand the 2 pack clear coat on the hull which was recommended by my builder, 3D printed RC Yachts, who is a licensed builder or go the whole hog and take off the clear coat and thin the hull to reduce weight and paint again. I chose the former as it was a lot quicker. The hull finish is superb with just a hint of evidence of the the two hull joins. I filled any groves with Isopon car filler. To sand the hull I started with specialist finishing paper. It has a lubricant coating which prevents clogging and saves a lot of time over wet and dry sanding. The main advantage is you can easily see the high and low spots. I used 320 grade specialist finishing paper and then polished with 1500 grade wet and dry and T cut car polish. The other minor job was to add an additional fairlead for the jib sheet. The boat only came with two fairleads so I reposition one for the B rig and added the 3rd for the C rig. Each jib boom now goes out 85 degrees on the run. I had to drill a new set of holes forward on the jib boom for the A rig. The boat is now in a position for me to check the balance which I am hoping to do tomorrow if I can find an ice free lake. What is left to do Consider the right fin, rudder and bulb shape. My early generations Alioth blades have a reverse camber at the aft end of the chord. I believe the new clades are good. The bulb has the max chord 25% from the front. There are a few choices for the rudder, e.g. John Gill (UK) who makes a nice product as well as a rig tension meter, Robot,Yachts (UK), Dave Creed (UK), Craig Smith (Australia). Need to do some two boat testing before making any decisions on this front. Once I have checked the balance and got the boat footing nicely and we get near some meaningful regattas , I will bend on some new sails as the final stage of optimisation. Of course all this work is combined with as much practise as I can fit in. It is the nut on the end of the tiller that gets the boat round the race course and all the speed in the world won't make up for bad starts and poor tactics. The sheeting set up - Feeding the main and jib sheet through the small guide hole in the upper left of the radio pot holds any loose sheets away from the winch and drum. Here you can see the 3 sheet lead positions. The numbers on the deck were hand drawn and cut. If I was to build another Alioth what would I do In constructing the hull, remove as much redundant plastic as possible and sand the hull well to reduce weight as much as possible before painting. The printed hull is approx 1mm thick. There are two options for sheeting systems. On deck sheeting where the sheets enter the deck behind the foredeck bulkhead. This will keep the boat dry. The other method is under deck sheeting with the deck entry points on the centreline of the boat. They let a tiny amount of water in although nothing significant even in wild weather. The boat does need rinsing inside after salt water sailing. Personally I like the latter set up. Other than that I would do the same as above.

A checklist of everything to do before and event Some notes on measuring your settings I put this section in, because as a newcomer I was confused over how to measure some of the settings. e.g. was the jib foot measurement from the foot of the jib to the side of the boom or the centre of it. So just for clarity I show the measurements for a Britpop. All measurement are from the BG web site. Different designs will have there own measurements to achieve perfect sailing balance. To emphasise the importance of this, take a lesson from Zvonko Jelacic who won the 2023 Europeans. Every morning he would be seen with his boat fully rigged laid horizontally on a table and measuring all his rig settings before he went sailing. To get the mast rake accurate I use a a measuring stick. There are two measurements, one from the deck to a measured point on the mast. A second from the bow (at the back of the bumper to the aforementioned measured point. The marks on the rig stick are the same for the Alternative plan. See pictures below Measuring main/jib foot depth, jib boom angle and leach twist, mast ram, main boom angle Jib foot and the mainsail foot are measured from deepest part of sail to the side of the boom. Jib leech twist is measured from the topping lift wire. Jib boom angle is measured from the centre of the mast to the inside of the boom. Golden rule is the A rig should be just inside the shroud, B rig centred on the shroud and C rig pointing outside the shroud. Mast ram is measured from the 1st sheet loop. Measure the main boom angle from the centre of the post to the side of the boom ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, start with the base measurements recommended for your design. Only with experience and talking to the experts will you learn how to fine tune from there for the wide and varied conditions we experience. A couple of mm adjustment here and there can make a huge difference to performance. Lastly and there is probably some debate on this in some circles, measure your rig tension. I bought a rig tension device recently and was amazed to see the impact of one turn of a bottle screw on the rig tension. Of course once you have it right, put locking nuts on the thread into the bottle screws and you will achieve the same tension when you rig the boat. It is only worth checking again from time to time in case the wires stretch or the boat appears to slow. They are available from johngill1003@gmail.com . I thoroughly recommend these to you and no, I am not on commission.

Tuning tips from one of the worlds greatest sailors, Ken Read at the Newport Model Boat Club Dragonflite 95 Spring Clinic 2024 `(Good to see he has studied the tuning tips from our 2023 Global Champion, Craig Richard s) VIDEO Synopsis For a simple one design boat, who would have thought there was so much to think about. Measure the rake multiple times a week. Rig and setup the boat at home away from any wind to make sure balance is right A rig average rake 1135. Set the backstay before measuring the rake Use a rig stick Set the mast right back at deck level. Keep the backstay the same and tighten the jib luff bowsie slightly as wind builds. Moves rake from 1135 to 1132. Only 3mm. In light weather ease backstay 2-3mm Mainsheet bridle - glue in place so ring is level with boom eye. Makes sure it is centred Jib sheet eye on boom is well forward of deck sheet eye. Main boom out just under 90. Jib boom at 90 degrees. On a windy day sheet in slightly Main halyard. Use a single line so it can swivel and set just below silver band so the sail can pivot Use cord instead of the metal sail ties Making changes. Do down wind and behind yourself. Static loads are so much higher on shore than on the water. Learn where the max bend is on the backstay and mark as a reference. When on the water if you have heavy weather or lee helm you have not got the original set up right. If you change the rake you have to change the topping lift. 2marks on topping lift, 2 marks on headstay and 1 mark on the backstay. With these marks setup is quick and easy. Jib tack. Get as close to the deck as possible Jib cunningham - never used because the sails are board flat. Deck measurements 3 marks on the deck for sheet locations. The marks run down the boom. Make a mark with the boom and then draw 3 1 inch lines on starboard side with a ruler in line with mark to jib tack. Set up consistently to those marks. Use for course tune to get rid of weather or lee helm and a repeat reference if boat is fast. Foot measurement. Use fingers. 1 to 1.5 fingers. Measure and check with your fingers Check vang sailing downwind on the water. Taping a hatch. Start at the back and work forward so you create a water ramp. It is possible to roll gybe the boat. Jib weight pushed right in to avoid getting hooked up in a crash. Tacking in a breeze, you have to let the sheets out. High mode fast mode - Ken just uses the throttle

DF 95 Tuning numbers If you search on the web for DF 95 tuning you can get similar images to the one below. I use it as a guide (ignoring the mast gate positions) to establish some starting points and then adjust as I feel fit. As I get comfortable with my setting I will mark up the cords so I can achieve similar setting on each outing. But the best way to set up is to copy Craig or find the fastest boat on the day and set up similar to that. How do I set the boat up Having raced twice now at a TT and the first day of the Nationals at Poole with top 2 results, I can conclude my light weather set up is OK. The following pages show how Craig sets his boat up and there are many useful tips there. However whilst I have copied quite a bit from his work the are some things I do a little different. I use the table above for foot depth and boom angle. So I start with the mast 2 notches forward from the back. I do this because my luff curve on the main is not shaved like Craigs so I need a bit more mast bend. This sets the mast rake so there is no need to measure bow bumper to the crane. With the jib luff slackish, I adjust the backstay to put in about 5 mm of bend so the mainsail sits nicely agains the mast. Then I apply enough forestay tension to keep the top of the jib is stable in the strongest gust of the day. This will stop the top of the jib wobbling which we all know is dead slow. Then I check my boom angles and foot depth from the chart and make sure the rudder is straight. The last thing I do is holding the boat, sheet everything in to make sure the setup looks OK and then gradually head the boat up into wind to check the jib tell tale and the tell tail I have at the top of the main react in unison. Then I know the boat should be balanced. I put the boat on the water to see how it sails upwind. If I have lee helm, I apply a tiny bit of kicker until the balance is relatively neutral and the reverse if there is weather helm. That is pretty much all there is to the set up. It is very easy to over complicate. Far better to go with your setup and focus on the sailing. These are one design boats and there is much to be gained by sailing smart. How do I sail the DF In summary, I think lower and faster upwind is my mantra usually with the sheets eased a notch or two to get better VMG. I do have a high mode for getting off the start line and sailing in the stronger gusts but rarely use it. Starting In a one design boat I have become more aggressive on the start line. In the past I have hung back but find you lose too much distance if the line is biased like it was at Poole. So on a very port biased line I want to be the pin end boat but this does require a level of skill and timing. If the line is squarer and there is no advantage to go left I want to be one of the starboard end boats so I have positional control on the fleet and always look to find a gap on the start so I can tack when I like. On the first beat I will try and stay to the right of the fleet so I do not get forced left by starboard boats and have to take pot luck coming into the mark on port. Of course if there is a favourable left side shift or more pressure I will head that way. On the reach or run in lighter conditions I find the boat does like heading up in the lulls and bearing away in the puffs as this maintains a better overall speed. I have used the technique in dinghies, yachts and model yachts. It all comes down to manipulating apparent wind. There is a lot more on tactical sailing round the course in the section "Racing and IOM". This winter I will rearrange the site so it covers IOM, DF and Marblehead and have racing as a separate section. Overall message is keep everything simple and focus on sailing fast when your boat is on the water.

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Starting Point and references My plan for the boat was to sort the rigging and sails so that I have a reliable package which I can put on the water and race with confidence. The boat was only sailed a few times times by the previous 2 owners since 2016 so there is a lot of work to do. Here is a starting jobs list. Fair top of rudder so it fits flush to the hull. Fit Futaba Servo and new 1000mA Lifo battery Check all the electrics are working smoothly and calibrate winch Replace endless sheet cord and adjust lead approach to drum so there is a direct line with no friction Replace all sheets Replace backstay and jib leech topping lift with wire. Check weigh boat Calibrate sheeting angles Check all mainsail heads are set to just below top band. One or two of the fittings may need replacing as they look a bit dodgy Tune all rigs and calibrate and log settings Test sail and check boat is waterproof Buy more deck patches. The jobs were straight forward and I had loads of spares so no additional cost. If the hull is competitive which I believe it should be then I think an order for new sails will be on the cards as well as a lightweight swing rig and maybe a gismo to control leech tension upwind. For now I will work with what I have and assess whether the investment will be worth while. Looking around on the web I found the following references Marblehead section on the MYA Web site. This provides links to all the relevant Marblehead web sites Pimp my Marblehead by BG on the MYA web site Great information on how to pimp up older designs. More from the man himself on pimping. Here is the web link but have put extracts of the text below because it adds to the jigsaw. Its well worth reading the full article HERE Originally Posted by Brad Gibson on RC Groups.com Weight - Anything with a designed displacement upwards of 5 kg ready to race will struggle in light winds. The current competitive parameters for an all round design live between 4.4 - 4.8 kg with the most recent winning designs sitting in the 4.7- 4.8 range. - Any hull weight with radio and rudder installed ready to sail, less rig and fin/ballast, should not be more that 900 - 950 grams. The better boats live within the 780 - 840g region. - Beam Waterline should be no greater than 160mm. Current designs are as low as 130 -150mm Hull weight is 840 grams, less rig and keel. Overall designed displacement is 4.9kg. - With a newer thin profile stiff fin we go a fraction deeper on the fin and shave 100 grams off the lead. Lighter boat, similar righting moment with less drag. Win win! - The original Bantock rigs are stiff as hell for their weight so very little to do there other than modernise the sail plans to modern ratios if you desire, and replace sails accordingly. The original rigs were set some 85mm off the deck to the lower mast bands, so we follow what works on our IOM's and modern M's in cutting down the goosenecks to get things as low as we can. These last points are more fine tuning but give us a little more from the boat across the wind range. Sailsetc/Bantock swing rig plan How to program an RMG Smartwinch

Here is what you get in the Alternative plan 獲得計劃 在查看了所有不同的設計之後，我得出結論，鑑於我完全缺乏知識，任何接近英式流行音樂的東西都必須是最佳選擇。 所以我買了替代設計 BG 網站 ，這給了我 一切 我需要建造包括正確裝備的船 設置 測量。 你在計劃中得到了什麼 設計筆記 甲板佈局 帶設備位置的甲板平面圖 從船尾基准開始的所有測量的側高 船體框架 前甲板框架 船體開口模板 桅杆索具佈置 懸臂佈置 主臂佈置 BG 網站上的另一部分是 Alternative 的佣金設置 一旦我有了所有的計劃，我就有信心我擁有建造這艘船所需的所有信息。

A summary of the build process and cost 建立 IOM 介紹及費用 2020 年，我在沒有任何經驗的情況下構建了我的第一個 IOM。 在看過 Brad Gibson 製作的插件視頻後，我仔細考慮了構建材料並選擇了玻璃環氧樹脂。 我只是邊走邊買材料，以防萬一我的任務失敗了。 我無法想像結局 結果 成為一個堅強的人 競爭的 在當地比賽中划船。 這是建造的故事。 構建的摘要和成本 為我的構建添加一些顏色。 我過去是小艇水手和遊艇手，過去曾使用過一點玻璃，但與製作模型遊艇沒什麼區別，所以我是第一次建造。 我最大的挑戰 - 有很多可用的信息，但它在互聯網上廣泛傳播。 你可以在這個網站上看到我的來源和每個引用的網站的鏈接。 它始於去年春天的一個 covid 項目，我受到 Brad Gibson 關於構建男性插頭的視頻的啟發，並意識到我可以分階段構建，而無需為整個項目投入資金，以防萬一我在過程中的任何階段被擊敗。 我本可以沿著木質路線走，這會更便宜，但我覺得我可以用環氧樹脂獲得更輕的結果，而且我沒有木材工具，也沒有環氧樹脂。 所以我開始使用 5 分鐘環氧樹脂、幾管 UHU POR、一些紅牌、Brad Gibson 的計劃 22 英鎊、一盒 600x600x100mm 藍色泡沫塑料 76 英鎊、一些輕木砂光板和一些砂紙。 第一階段是用泡沫建造一個公平的船體，令我驚訝的是我做到了。 一旦我到了那個點，我就可以訂購玻璃墊和環氧樹脂，很快我就有了一個男性模具。 在模具上製作船體相對容易，但要注意船頭和船尾的角落，因為您可以獲得空氣間隙。 一個問題是決定上籃。 船隻製造商提供了一些線索，但我不確定是否相信他們。 我知道您需要每平方米總計 10 到 12 盎司的上籃。 在我下一次上籃時，我將嘗試使用 3 層 124g s 玻璃，這比我的第一條船輕一點 一旦船體從模具中拉出，重要的是要有一個夾具來放置船體並用於精確測量總長度，使龍骨和方向舵居中並垂直於中心線。 然後是添加內部零件並構建鑽機的情況。 唯一的重大失敗。 我忘了加固桅杆下的船體，差點把桅杆推過船底，這在水上看起來不太好。 除此之外，一切都是笨拙的多莉。 重新裝備。 我從 Housemartin 帆購買了一套用於鑽機、帆和配件的套件。 沒有關於這些位的說明，但是有關於如何在 Salesetc 上組裝鑽機的很好的文檔，我能夠從那裡解決所有問題。 帆很便宜，而且很容易安裝。 您最初可能只需要購買 A 和 B 鑽機。 我從 Dave Creed 那裡買了鰭舵、燈泡和鰭箱，我認為他是該行業中最好的。 由於這艘船是第一次在水面上，我已經做了很多合適的改進，我想我現在有了一個最終配置好的船。 黃金法則越簡單越好。 這艘船很有競爭力，但我相信它在強風中永遠不會像頂級生產船一樣快。 我的目標是看看當排名活動開始時我能走多遠。 這艘船是 Frensham 池塘的常客，在訪問 Emsworth 時，我在由一些非常有經驗的水手駕駛的生產船組成的船隊中，在 15 場比賽中的 10 場比賽中獲得了第 4 名。 關於成本和時間。 我在船體（包括工具）上花了大約 400 英鎊，在配件上花了大約 900 英鎊（鑽機套件 A、B、C 300 英鎊，rmg 絞盤加開關 235 英鎊，無線電套件 108 英鎊，鰭燈泡和方向舵 110 英鎊）。 我以不到 50 英鎊的價格製作了自己的船箱和鑽機箱。 將此與購買全套套件（包括 A - C 鑽機、鑽機箱、船架、船箱）進行比較，價格為 3-4000 英鎊，具體取決於您購買的地點。 如果這些信息激勵您建造一艘船，您將不會失望，我總是很樂意提供任何建議。 你可以有耐心，最重要的是非常仔細的計劃，並記住那裡有很多人願意提供幫助。

A directory of championship races from around the world 來自世界各地的視頻 2021年 2020 年 2 月 27 日至 1 日，國際移民組織第 5 區科珀斯克里斯蒂德克薩斯州帆船賽。 2019年巴西世錦賽 熱 6 艦隊 A 熱 6 艦隊 E 熱 6 艦隊 B 熱 8 艦隊 A 熱 8 艦隊 B 熱 9 艦隊 A 熱 9 艦隊 B 熱 14 艦隊 A Heat 17 艦隊 A Heat 19 艦隊 A 熱 19 艦隊 B 熱 20 艦隊 B 熱 22 艦隊 D 熱 23 艦隊 B 熱火24艦隊A 2019年澳大利亞全國錦標賽 第 1 天第 2 次種子賽 第 4 場 艦隊 第 2 場 艦隊 第 10 場 A 艦隊 第 5 場 艦隊 Race 5 B 車隊 第 3 場 B 車隊 第 13 場 艦隊 2018年澳大利亞陽光海岸帆船賽 第 4 天第 1 場比賽第 2 場 第 4 天第 1 場比賽第 1 場比賽 Race 4 B 車隊 種子賽 1 種子賽2 Race 2 B 艦隊 Day 1 Race 3 D Fleet 昆士蘭州冠軍 第 2 場 艦隊 Race 2 B 艦隊 第 15 場 艦隊 第 18 場 艦隊 2017 荷蘭國際移民組織大師賽 2017年萊比錫杯 2017 澳大利亞國際移民組織國民 Kogarah Bay I OM Worlds 2015 福斯特城 最後一天 2012 年 2 島 RYC 的英國國民 第 1 場比賽 1 A 車隊 2011年世錦賽西卡比 第 18 場 艦隊 Race 23 A Fleet - Peter Stollery 39 和 Brad Gibson 42 之間的精彩比賽 第一天 第 2 天 第 3 天 第 4 天 第 5 天 第 6 天 一點點懷舊

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Project I have sailed an IOM for two years and think I am beginning to understand how the boats are fitted together and pimped for speed. My challenge with racing the IOM is dealing with speed in a breeze so a sensible solution to developing my skill was to buy a faster boat and get used to the speed as well as understand how another boat design work and could be optimised. In looking into the Marblehead designs, I note that the Grunge is the boat of choice but unfortunately there were none available when I looked. The were a few Starkers designs available built by Dave Creed which seemed to be a good platform to get me started and one in particular took my eye so I took the plunge and bought it. Over the autumn and winter this year, my plan is to optimise the boat. It has a standard A rig, B, C 1,2,3. The A is a standard swing rig and the others conventional. All will need re rigging as the cord is over four years old and whilst not used cannot be considered to be reliable. The next section looks at the jobs list on the new boat.