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第一迎風腿 你需要知道的 執行你的計劃 需要注意什麼 提前計劃好標記四捨五入 你可以撥打什麼電話 細節 執行你的計劃。 好吧，那假設你有一個。 那麼你認為在你的計劃中做什麼？ 我們在“開始前航行”一節中討論了這一點 這裡 嘗試從不同角度觀察航線，並在開始前駕駛您的船並觀看其他船隻時測試您的觀察結果。 通過從岸邊觀察或航行時，找出迎風腿的哪一側是有利的。 一側或另一側的風看起來更強。 是否有障礙物（樹木、建築物、大船）、 這可能會影響整個球場的風。 陣風是如何順著跑道而下的，它們是偏向一側還是另一側，風在它們中是否發生顯著變化以及進入陣風的方向是有利的。 是否有可能導致風彎曲的重要海岸線。 如果可以，與另一艘船一起航行，通過在節拍的相反兩側航行來測試風。 不管你怎麼做，制定一個計劃並遵循它，直到情況發生變化並且有證據表明採取不同的行動方案。 保持在課程的中間，除非有明顯的理由去其他地方並且 觀察當地人，看看他們去了哪裡。 你在第一拍就進球 避開人群和被困 受益於任何風彎 繼續尋找輪班路線 避免由障礙物引起的無風區 盡量減少粘連 當試圖到達路線的有利一側時，通過躲避而不是跟踪來犧牲 1 或 2 艘船，並且可能會被拖到路線的錯誤一側。 為迎風標記方法提前做好計劃。 如果你靠近前部，你的進場有一定的靈活性，如果有利於你可以執行最後一分鐘的左舷進場，但是如果你在人群中，那麼確保你早點在右舷排隊，至少在 4 船區外，您可以在晴朗的空氣中快速航行。 確保您知道您想要運行的哪一側並相應地定位您的船。 在球場上歡呼 在這一點上，值得一提的是，您可以在開始和繞航線航行時發出一些冰雹。 規則規定了下面列出的一些允許的調用 由競爭對手 “24 Room to Tack”在障礙物處或為通行權船 - 可選擇回复您 呼籲抗議 - 24 次抗議 15 船 33 失控（因此成為障礙物） 戰術冰雹 右舷 熬夜 沒有空間 - 在迎風標記處向內釘 重疊 無重疊 標記房間 由委員會 個人召回 一般召回 代碼 U 標誌召回 黑旗召回 觀察者冰雹，例如 59 擊中目標。 45 和 67 之間的聯繫 其他任何事情都令人困惑。 當你所有的競爭對手和旁觀者都在傾聽時，進入爭論是徒勞的。 他們不會為此感謝你。 混淆通話的示例視頻

清單 你需要知道的 如果您想要一個一致的設置並且不想留下任何東西，那麼檢查清單是必不可少的，需要長途跋涉去另一家具樂部開會。 細節 我爸爸是一名航空公司飛行員，他不能不通過幾個檢查單來駕駛飛機。我在小艇的日子裡開始使用它們，主要是為了檢查我是否擁有所有的設備，然後再出發去參加一個帶有重重宿醉的公開會議。 這樣我就永遠不會忘記任何事情。 那些日子。 現在我出於各種原因使用它們。 1 在離開家之前檢查我是否擁有所有設備 2 檢查房車內的所有物品 3 我的船設置的記錄，例如桅杆傾斜度、後撐張力、床單設置等。 航行無線電遊艇有很多變數，當我第一次開始駕駛我的船時，我曾經用翅膀來駕駛它。我會出現，把船放好，讓它看起來正確，然後去航行。然而，在某些日子裡事情並不完全正確，我無法指出哪裡出了問題。一個小學生的錯誤是將 2 號吊臂掛在 1 號吊鉤上。 在美好的日子裡，我開始記錄我的設置並逐漸構建我的清單。如果你把這個推到極致，每個鑽機大約有 24 個數據點。當然，您不需要深入到這種程度的細節，但是您測量的越多，您對船的設置就越有信心。 我的 原來的 清單在這裡。我修改後的清單大大簡化了

一些你可能喜歡讀的書 理論 CA Marchaj 的帆船理論與實踐 1964年 CA Marchaj 的航行空氣流體動力學 1979年 CA Marchaj 的風帆表演 1996年 弗蘭克·貝思韋特（Frank Bethwaite）的高性能帆船 2010（第二版） 實踐 Paul Elvstrom的專家小艇賽車 1963年 斯圖爾特沃克的風與戰略 1973年 Christopher Caswell 和 David Ullman 的冠軍小艇帆船賽 1978年 布魯斯·班克斯 / 迪克·肯尼的《看帆》 1979年 勝利 - Stuart Walker 的競爭心理學 1980年 Stuart Walker 1981 年的高級賽車戰術 Eric Twiname 的航海、比賽和勝利 1982年 這是 Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 的船調速度 1984年 揚帆取勝系列 - 勞裡·史密斯 (Lawrie Smith) 的小艇舵 1983年 - David Houghton 的 Wind Strategy 1984年 - 由 Lawrie Smith 調整您的小艇 1985年 - 羅德尼帕蒂森/蒂姆戴維森的船速 1986年 Jim Saltonstall 的 RYA 比賽訓練手冊 1983年 感謝 Brian Outram（澳大利亞）的閱讀清單 讓我知道你最喜歡的書，以便我可以將它們添加到列表中

其他供應商 英國 東海岸玻璃纖維 精密秤 Dremel - 玻璃纖維房屋建造必不可少的 雪松條 雪鬆地帶公司 康沃爾模型船 倒計時器 風速計 我們 從這裡開始美國模型遊艇協會

Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.

最後一拍 你需要知道的 為最後一個迎風腿做好計劃 松蓋 留在後面的船和終點之間 快速而自由地航行 細節 船很可能是分散的，沒有太多的收穫或損失，但是作為機會主義者，請始終注意改變遊戲規則的風向轉變，這可能會使您獲得一些位置。它不會經常發生，但是一旦發生，如果您錯過它，您會踢自己。 為最後一拍制定計劃。 在後面的船隻上保持鬆散的掩護，並保持在它們和路線的有利一側之間。 如果後面的船開裂，請鬆開朝向有利一側的船。 如果可能的話，專注於將您的船定位到課程的中心，這樣您就可以利用任何一種方式的突然轉變。 當你遍歷最後一個節拍時，確定終點線的哪一端更近，並瞄準終點。 緊張會導致擠壓和速度損失。 記得呼吸並保持放鬆。 快速而自由地航行，你將保持自己的位置，誰知道呢，也許會在那些注意力不集中、視線從船上移開的人身上獲得幾個位置。

稱重並檢查測量船 用帶有所有配件的 A 鑽機給船稱重，就像在甲板上航行一樣 補丁 鬆散地放在 船。 它應該重4公斤 通過課堂規則並檢查測量船。 Setting the boat to float on its lines What you need to know Bring your fully rigged boat up to weight with correctors Float the boat on a calm day on a fish pond, pond, or deep bath and set correctors to put boat on its lines Check measure against class rules The process Weigh and check measure Weight the fully rigged boat dry. Add two equal weight correctors on either side of the fin box at its centre to make up the weight of the boat to 4 kg . Float the boat and check to see it sits on its lines. You may have to adjust the position of the correctors. Once the boat is on its lines, mark and bond the lead corrector in with silicon sealer. I have heard that some people put a small amount of lead in the radio pot so they can make adjustments to the corrector weight if they change a fitting. Pull a copy of the class rules from the HERE Check measure as much as you can. The one measurement you may have difficulty is with the overall length and depth from water line to bottom of fin. This is done in a special tank. Click here for Measurement and Certification Procedure Thought for the day - Getting the most out of correctors Given that we spend a lot of effort getting grams of weight off the foredeck and the mast to reduce pitching moment in a chop, I started thinking about how best to build the correctors. I am looking at roughly 400 gms of lead which I want as close to the centre of the boat fore and aft, but also as low down as possible. I looked at buying lumps of lead but ended up buying lead shot which I could fashion into shape with epoxy. My goal is to make correctors as flat as possible so they sit in the bottom of the boat. The picture shows crudely the difference flat correctors might make. Small I grant but a difference none the less. The top image shows the impact of square lumps of lead at the fin box when the boat is heeled over. The bottom picture show a flattened corrector. The arrows represent the centre of mass for each corrector. The flattened version has a centre of mass lower than the square corrector and in theory when the boat is at an angle the flattened corrector provides more righting moment. All these weight changes I have made, are small. 11gms out of the jib boom, 30gms out of the mast and main boom, 200gms out of the hull of the boat, bigger and lower correctors. It all adds up to more righting moment and less pitching moment. There is easy access to the base of the fin box if you take the winch down. It was easy to lay in two strips of velcro on each side of the hull and place the correctors on this. So now they are fixed but moveable. Once you identify the correct balance point you can fix the correctors in permanently. Moulding the correctors using epoxy and lead shot which you can get off eBay. Means you can shape your correctors anyway you like 設置船漂浮在其線上 你需要做什麼 知道 使用校正器使您完全裝配好的船達到重量 在平靜的一天，將船漂浮在魚塘、池塘或深浴中，並設置校正器以將船放好 根據班級規則檢查措施 過程 稱重和檢查措施 稱重完全裝配好的船幹。 在鰭箱的兩側在其中心添加兩個等重的校正器，以彌補船的重量 到 4 公斤。 使船漂浮並檢查它是否位於其線上。 您可能需要調整校正器的位置。 一旦船在它的線上，用矽密封劑標記並粘合鉛校正器。 我聽說有些人在收音機鍋裡放了少量的鉛，這樣他們在更換配件時可以調整校正器的重量。 從這里 拉一份班級規則的副本 盡可能多地檢查測量。 您可能有困難的一種測量是從吃水線到鰭片底部的總長度和深度。 這是在一個特殊的坦克中完成的。 單擊此處了解測量和認證程序 今日思考 - 充分利用校正器 鑑於我們花了很多精力從前甲板和桅杆上減輕重量，以減少劈砍時的俯仰力矩，我開始考慮如何最好地構建校正器。我正在查看大約 400 克的鉛，我希望它盡可能靠近船的前後中心，但也盡可能低。我考慮購買鉛塊，但最終購買了鉛丸，我可以用環氧樹脂將其塑造成形狀。我的目標是使校正器盡可能平坦，以便它們位於船底。 圖片粗略地顯示了平面校正器可能產生的差異。小我同意，但仍然有所不同。 上圖顯示了當船傾覆時方形鉛塊對鰭箱的影響。底部圖片顯示了一個扁平的校正器。箭頭代表每個校正器的質心。扁平版本的質心低於方形校正器，理論上當船處於一定角度時，扁平校正器提供更多的扶正力矩。 我所做的所有這些改變都很小。起重臂 11 克，桅杆和主臂 30 克，船體 200 克，更大和更低的校正器。這一切加起來就是更多的扶正力矩和更少的俯仰力矩。 如果您取下絞盤，就可以輕鬆接觸到翅片箱的底部。很容易在船體的每一側鋪設兩條魔術貼，然後將校正器放在上面。所以現在它們是固定的，但可以移動。 使用環氧樹脂和鉛丸成型校正器，您可以在 eBay 上購買。意味著你可以隨心所欲地塑造你的校正器 當天的想法 - 安裝校正器。 如果您取下絞盤，就可以輕鬆接觸到翅片箱的底部。很容易在船體的每一側鋪設兩條魔術貼，然後將校正器放在上面。所以現在它們是固定的，但可以移動。 使用環氧樹脂和鉛丸成型校正器，您可以在 eBay 上購買。意味著您可以隨心所欲地塑造校正器。 發布前的最後作業 這艘船是完全裝配好的，所有三個鑽機都是使用我的檢查單上註明的鑽機量尺和啟動設置進行設置的。無線電控制發射器已經過內部檢查，以確保沒有電線接觸到用於板和舵桿的萬向節。任何接觸都會在萬向節上產生非常奇怪的隨機行為。發射器上的無線電設置作為檢查表。 檢查了所有 3 個鑽機和安裝在 B 和 C 鑽機上的校正器的船重量。這些是我從 Sailsetc 購買的 10 克桅杆插件。因為我在 A 鑽機上節省了 20 克，所以我可以在 B 和 C 鑽機上少使用 20 克校正器。 我還在下層甲板的桅杆周圍貼上膠帶，以阻止任何側向運動，並添加修改後的跟部形狀以阻止桅杆旋轉，這樣在使用桅杆發射時，吊具就不會錯位。見下圖。 每艘船的總重量在 4004-6 克之間。 3 甲板補丁已經就位，所以她準備好在星期一開始她的第一次郊遊，這恰好是我的生日。濺船的好時機。 接下來的步驟是製定一個訓練和航行計劃，為國民和任何指標事件建立起來。 下面幾張圖。

為這一天做好準備 “給我六個小時砍一棵樹，我會用前四個小時來磨斧頭。”亞伯拉罕·林肯 你需要知道的 為任何天氣做好準備 使用您的發射器蓋 準備好潮濕的天氣裝備 保持溫暖舒適乾燥 對您的船隻設置已通過檢查清單充滿信心 早點到達並觀察水面上的風模式 條件與預測有何關係？ 檢查海岸線上是否有任何身體活動限制 學習任何航行說明 如果條件發生變化，請準備好快速更換鑽機 手邊準備一瓶水。 保持水分將幫助您在以後的比賽中清晰思考 細節 在一系列比賽的興奮中，想要在比賽中取得好成績，很容易分心，忘記小而重要的細節。有老朋友相會，培根三明治和咖啡吃喝，註冊等。這裡是你的清單的地方，如果你虔誠地遵循它，你將在比賽時間成為車隊中最好的準備。 那麼你需要考慮什麼。 在您的旅途中或之前，您會注意到天氣預報。預測與您在會場看到的情況有任何關係嗎？為任何天氣做好準備。如果早上天氣晴朗溫暖，會不會變壞、變冷或開始下雨。確保您手上有合適的衣服，因為潮濕和/或寒冷無助於您專注於賽艇比賽。此外，如果預報有雨，您是否需要發射器罩。 一定要早點到達並觀察水面上的風模式風模式。試著從湖的不同邊看風景，看看一側或另一側的風是否更強，球場上會不會有風彎。是否有任何重大障礙，例如樹木、房屋以及它們將如何影響風。現在的觀察，將幫助你在開始和第一個節拍。 仔細檢查您的清單，確保您的船設置正確，並且您已完成所需的一切工作。 . 檢查岸上賽馬區的佈局，看看岸線上是否有任何身體活動限制。 研究任何航行說明並牢記它們。特別注意啟動程序和標記位置。 如果條件要求，請準備好快速更換鑽機。如果汽車不夠近，請將您的鑽機箱放在附近，並準備好更換鑽機。 當您將船停在地面上時，請準備一條毛巾放在下面，如果天氣晴朗且炎熱，請確保將船蓋住或將其放在陰涼處，這樣您的鰭就不會翹曲，船體也不會變形重新治愈。 最後，準備一瓶水/茶/咖啡，或者一個能量棒或香蕉。模型遊艇比賽需要全神貫注，保持水分和營養將幫助您在以後的比賽中清晰思考。 請記住 - 完美的準備將帶來近乎完美的表現。

船練習 “他們說沒有人是完美的。然後他們告訴你，熟能生巧。我希望他們能下定決心”——溫斯頓·丘吉爾 你需要知道的 你可以自己做很多事情 專注於開始練習，因為這是比賽的 80% 最佳實踐是與另一艘船或一群人在一起 平衡你的船，讓它自己迎風航行 粘性後稍微放鬆紙張以獲得最大加速度 在任何標記舍入處進入寬闊並靠近 Jibe 使用絞盤，因此您的方向變化最小 細節 當我們最終被允許回到水上時，您可能想在比賽開始前偷偷溜到俱樂部來提高自己的技能。你可能會問，“我如何才能最好地利用我有限的時間”？這裡有一些想法。 靠你自己 首先要做的是檢查您的船是否沿直線行駛。將船直接遠離您或朝向您航行，床單足夠放鬆，使您的船保持直立。如有必要，使用發射器上的精細控制調整轉向。 迎風航行，讓船自己航行。它是升起還是躲避？嘗試使用另一種方法來檢查是否表現出相同的行為。調整調諧直到船沿直線行駛或稍微拉動以迎風。 開始練習 如果您什麼都不做，請專注於啟動技術。開始是比賽的80％。如果您在海岸附近看到一個標記，請在您和該標記之間創建一條假想的起點線，然後練習以下內容： 進入標記的距離時間。在你的手機上設置一個計時器開始，比如 30 秒。 把你的船放在繩子上，從你想要的起始位置全速航行 10 秒，把船轉回來，然後在開始時間開回繩子。這將使您習慣返回生產線所需的時間。改變你航行的時間和角度，你航行遠離線路，但總是盡量在接近開始時間全速越過線路。如果你在這種情況下結束並不重要。 使用 1 分鐘倒計時，練習將您的船保持在距離線或標記的船長范圍內。盡可能長時間地保持這個姿勢。然後在其他課程中練習跳出，即背離，沿著線航行以找到假想的間隙並停下船並保持。 在槍上加速。 對此的一個變體是阻止線路，以便您可以在 3 或 4 秒內開始加速。 如果您觀看大多數比賽，船隻通常會在砲聲響起的 1 秒內進入，因為它們離線路太近了。 那些後退的人可以全速過線。 在一組 最後，如果還有其他船隻，則以一組開始練習，如果附近有迎風標記，您可以跑到那裡然後返回並重複。 駛向迎風 練習在不觸碰發射器控制裝置的情況下迎風航行。您的船是否保持其線，如果沒有，則可能需要進行一些調整。練習在高模式下航行，稍微收緊床單，以便您可以指向高處，然後稍微放鬆床單以加快腳步。在某個時間點，尤其是在開始之後，您將需要這兩種技術（以避免其他船隻或加速離開）。如果您看到一陣微風，請嘗試以快速模式航行以到達它。 定位 固定時，一旦完成固定，暫時稍微放鬆床單以增加速度，然後再將床單放回原處。您不會放鬆超過半厘米，但它確實對加速度有很大影響。 您也可以在強風中執行此操作。 標記四捨五入 這裡有很多事情要做。除了練習繞過標記的技術外，您還需要養成習慣或在繞過標記之前確定下一條腿要走的路。獨自練習時，如果您要從節拍過渡到跑步，請選擇您想要讓您的船駛向路線最有利一側的選擇。在繞向迎風標記時，如果您離上風線有一段距離，請留出足夠的空間，因為距離很難判斷。 迎風標記 - 靠近左舷並在標記上大頭釘（您在比賽中很少這樣做），對於右舷大頭釘方法，請確保從標記處起 6 條船的長度，以便您在任何試圖通過的左舷小船上方保持通行權在區域內大頭釘在你面前。 背風標誌 練習四捨五入，並在標記處緊貼，以避免其他船隻進入您的船隻。還要練習瞄準標記，就好像在你面前有另一艘船一樣，你必須找到干淨的空氣。 跑步 除了沒有戲劇性的路線改變的快速鵝翼和gybing之外，這裡的練習量並不大。我使用單板絞盤將吊桿穿過吊臂，因此我不需要太多改變航向。 兩船調諧 如果你能找到另一個願意的主人，練習兩艘船的調整。一艘船一直保持相同的設置，另一艘船可以調整設置，看看這是否對速度有任何影響，然後逆轉這個過程。您也可以練習上述任何一項。此外，您還可以將比賽一起進行比賽，這對船舶操縱技能很有幫助。 為什麼要這樣做？ 所有這些練習的目的是建立你的信心。在一支強大的船隊中，您會知道無論您採用什麼機動，都可以以速度進行，最重要的是，您確切地知道每次機動時您的船應該具有什麼角度和風帆。

Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works 關於鑽機的初步想法 一段時間以來，我一直在考慮購買哪種鑽機。以下是我目前對新船鑽機的想法和決定。 桅杆 據我所知，有 3 個管子和一個開槽設計可供選擇。 Sailsetc groovy 管、Housemartin 管和Pierre Gonnet 管。我目前擁有 Housemartin 翼樑和帆，對它們的性能非常滿意。我去年買了一個 A、B 和 C 鑽機套件，它們都具有競爭力，但是我讀到 PG 桅杆更輕，具有相似的靈活性，並且擁有帆船，知道高處的重量可以在斬波中發揮重要作用，所以我將嘗試一些並比較重量和剛度，看看它們的表現如何。在與 Potter Solutions 交談後，我們決定 15 毫米或更小是 A 鑽機的最佳預彎曲。再多一點，當您用後撐桿取出預彎曲件時，您可以通過壓縮桅杆來輕鬆扭曲梁，並在吊具和獵犬之間引入不受控制的彎曲，並在天氣晴朗時引入過多的張力。我必須承認，我總是在獵犬下方遭受一點點餓死，並想知道這是否是由預彎曲引起的。 繁榮 我選擇了 Sailsetc 的輕型懸臂臂（Easton 箭頭軸 - 2515. 25/64 英寸直徑，千分之 15 英寸壁厚），以前使用過一個，並將使用主臂的桅杆切下部分，並重新使用我當前的鵝頸管和配件.這裡的想法再次是尋找需要最輕配重的船首最輕的部分。 配件 我在 A 鑽機上使用滾子軸承鵝頸管，在 B 和 C 上使用標準鵝頸管。我使用氣動箔式吊具，但它們掛在電線上，因此很容易調節。護罩穿過桅杆前部的一個孔，裡面有一個蝴蝶結塞子。我在所有翼樑上都使用了風帆等坎寧安環，因為我的豪斯馬丁風帆既有拉夫張力又有坎寧安眼。 帆 正如我上面提到的，我用的是豪斯馬丁帆，今年剛買了一套新的 A 套。在競爭方面，我看到 BG 和 Sailboat RC（現任世界冠軍）和他們的模製帆似乎是錦標賽的首選帆，但這可能只是使用它們的水手。謝天謝地，我看到 Emsworth 的成員都有兩個帆，所以將能夠對這三個帆進行很好的比較。當然還有其他幾家帆船製造商，但這些是目前從可用數據中引起我注意的三個世界冠軍品牌，但我是這個遊戲的新手，可能錯過了很多。 什麼是最好的整體包裝 目前的觀察表明 SailboatRC 套餐，因為他們贏得了最後兩個世界賽並主導了其他賽事，但自 2011 年以來，使用 BG 裝備的 Britpop 在數量和成功方面佔據主導地位。誰將在明年的克羅地亞世界賽中佔據主導地位？ SailboatRC 是首創的模製風帆，現在擁有久經考驗的設計，誰知道他們還有什麼。我期待著看到其他風帆設計師和建造者如何回應。 懸臂幾何。這一切都在幾何中。 你們中有多少人遇到過在平靜條件下懸臂從一側或另一側彈出，從而無法航行的問題。自從我推出我的第一艘船以來，我就遇到了這個問題。我只是在上週與 Dave Potter 的討論中找到了解決方案。這一切都在幾何中。見下圖。 右邊的圖有兩個圖。 左邊是我去年用的配置。我的水蛭繩被吊具纏住了幾次我認為最好使用繩索將它系在前臂的頭部，但沒有意識到這會影響幾何形狀並導致吊臂以一種或另一種方式踢出風很小或沒有風。 如果您想看到這一點，請將前帆放好，鬆開當前的瀝水線，然後將鬆散的瀝水線系在懸臂的末端。確保繩索足夠長以到達桅杆上的入口點。將luff和浸出線置於一定的張力下。首先將水蛭線的頂部移動到桅杆右側（即船尾）一英寸左右，如圖所示，您應該看到懸臂拉入船的中心線。現在向相反方向移動水蛭線，在桅杆前方，您應該看到小臂盡可能遠離中心線。 與 Dave Potter 交談時，他告訴我，他和 Deve Creed 解決了這個問題，將吊臂拉桿和吊桿線系在自攻螺釘上，從而確保吊桿線和吊桿拉力線在完全相同的點與桅杆相交，從而允許吊臂動臂可在任何方向自由旋轉 我想了一會兒，想出了另一種使用金屬絲和蝴蝶結的解決方案。鋼絲繩和吊臂拉夫眼連接到桅杆內的蝴蝶結上。它們退出桅杆，可以將懸臂拉桿鉤在用鋼絲製成的孔眼上。兩者都在設置正確幾何形狀的同一點進入桅杆。 手指交叉這意味著在平靜的情況下，小臂可以輕鬆地從一側擺動到另一側。如果有效，我會在本週末通知您 更多關於鑽機的想法 設置的關鍵是讓桅杆彎曲與主俯仰曲線相匹配。如果您閱讀 Brad Gibson 撰寫的關於調音的文章並查看對紐約中央公園 MYC 的最新採訪，那麼您將了解他的設置是多麼精確。 1 沒有大量使用 Cunningham 2 他的風帆非常光滑 3 主腳在所有條件下都設置在相同的深度 4 後拉索將僅在條件範圍內調整 2 至 4 毫米。 5 他按照自己的測量開始設置。 這裡的關鍵信息是有一個固定的設置。 BG 已經在這個遊戲中玩了很長時間，並且知道一個快速的精確設置。我們可以通過遵循他網站上 的設置說明或從您航行的任何船的設計師那裡來縮短經驗學習。 Kantun 有一套類似的設置編號和設計師提供的說明，隨船一起交付。其他設計師也做過類似的事情。 請記住，如果當您的船側放時，您會遇到必須通過過多的 Cunningham 去除的主彎道上的硬點，那麼您將需要調整可用的變量以擺脫這些硬點。他們是： 桅杆是直立的 吊具角度（並檢查它們是否對稱，即您的桅杆沒有旋轉） 桅杆 護罩張力 軟化或硬化預彎 如果您仍然遇到問題，請檢查桅杆是否筆直地到達預彎點，您的預彎是漸進的，而不是突然彎曲。 當然，如果你的帆很舊，它們可能已經拉長了，很難達到完美的效果。 我將在下面向您展示我的設置。我將有一個來自 Potter Solutions 的帶有 Housemartin 帆的 PG 鑽機。設置是從你知道的地方。 在這一點上，您可能會覺得我是 BG 粉絲。這是因為他在他的網站上匯總了所有相關的設置信息，這是我在網上旅行中看到的最好的，但與 Kantun 相似。他還擁有最接近 BritPOP 的設計（替代），可用於我所擁有的家庭建造。 對於那些對桅杆重量差異感興趣的人，Housemartin 和 PG 翼梁之間存在 20 克差異。我聽說 Sailsetc sparcome 介於兩者之間。重量分別為 99 和 79 克。我還沒有對剛度進行過測量，但我相信有人做過。他們倆的感覺都很好。 A 鑽機上的預彎為 600 毫米以上 15 毫米，B 鑽機上為 40 毫米，C 鑽機上有一個。 A 和 B 鑽機都帶有清晰的標記，顯示了預彎開始的確切點。在使用船計劃中的尺寸進行標記後，我將桅杆放在一張長桌上。使用sailsetc（見圖）或類似的東西來確保孔在正確的位置。首先，我安裝了一個粉紅色的塊並對齊桅杆，使預彎與桌子完全垂直。然後，我可以鑽前孔並將所有東西對齊，知道每個孔將前後對齊或垂直對齊（在吊具的情況下）。 鵝頸管用強力膠粘在上面，然後在鵝頸管底部鑽孔並用方形的甲板補片材料固定。 吊臂只需要以與上述相同的方式鑽孔。 使用粉紅色鑽塊將預彎與吊臂、護罩、吊具和鵝頸管的孔對齊。 當天的想法 - 完成鑽機 剩下的就是將桅杆切割成合適的長度，安裝到船上，添加後撐桿和懸臂，然後完成護罩的末端。 為了將桅杆切割成合適的長度，我使用了一根插入桅杆孔的假管，並標記了下甲板和上甲板的水平以及我想要鵝頸管和下限帶的位置。它必須高於下甲板水平面不少於 60 毫米，但在替代方案上，它約為 74 毫米。然後我只是從實際桅杆的下限用假桅杆測量到底部並切割。 超級粘合桅杆頭部和腳跟配件（一旦桅杆被切割成合適的長度），所以它們不會移動。然後我將桅杆放在船上，連接起重臂和後撐桿，並按照計劃將桅杆直接安裝到耙子上。之後，我將配件連接到護罩的末端並將索具螺釘固定到船上。鑽機被輕輕拉緊，因此可以安裝主要設備並調整鑽機。 最後一項工作是找到一種方法來阻止桅杆意外旋轉。建議是使用鵝頸管。不幸的是，我使用的鵝頸管不能將桅杆完全鎖定到位，因此我必須找到另一種解決方案。 我切了一英寸的桅杆部分然後 將其切成兩半，然後用兩條粗紮線帶將其粘在桅杆底部，以阻止膠帶部分壓縮。 通過這種方式，我將桅杆鎖定在中央，並在桅杆台階上將其稍微向前推，從而使船獲得更好的平衡。 下面有幾張完成的B鑽機的圖片 請注意，我不再將電纜紮帶用作懸臂樞軸，因為它們一直在斷裂，因此我將其換成了 Sailsetc 吊臂夾，並用板鉤將繩索連接到吊臂上。 我現在處於可以升高和降低小臂的位置。 Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails

一些你可能喜歡讀的書 理論 CA Marchaj 的帆船理論與實踐 1964年 CA Marchaj 的航行空氣流體動力學 1979年 CA Marchaj 的風帆表演 1996年 弗蘭克·貝思韋特（Frank Bethwaite）的高性能帆船 2010（第二版） 實踐 Paul Elvstrom的專家小艇賽車 1963年 斯圖爾特沃克的風與戰略 1973年 Christopher Caswell 和 David Ullman 的冠軍小艇帆船賽 1978年 布魯斯·班克斯 / 迪克·肯尼的《看帆》 1979年 勝利 - Stuart Walker 的競爭心理學 1980年 Stuart Walker 1981 年的高級賽車戰術 Eric Twiname 的航海、比賽和勝利 1982年 這是 Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 的船調速度 1984年 揚帆取勝系列 - 勞裡·史密斯 (Lawrie Smith) 的小艇舵 1983年 - David Houghton 的 Wind Strategy 1984年 - 由 Lawrie Smith 調整您的小艇 1985年 - 羅德尼帕蒂森/蒂姆戴維森的船速 1986年 Jim Saltonstall 的 RYA 比賽訓練手冊 1983年 感謝 Brian Outram（澳大利亞）的閱讀清單 讓我知道你最喜歡的書，以便我可以將它們添加到列表中

背風標誌 你需要知道的 有一個計劃。 不一定是您如何接近標記，而是您如何遠離標記。 定位船以採取節拍的有利一側。 細節 有一個分數四捨五入的計劃。 你的目標是成為內船，如果你面前有一堆慢船，你必須採取迴避行動，這可能會很困難。 如果有疑問，有一堆慢船在標記上並且您無法進入，請繞過它們的外側，但是如果您需要提前定位，最好讓一群船跟隨在它們後面，這樣您就可以有自由發揮。 如果您沒有其他船隻或周圍的船隻上有“標記室”，請在寬闊的地方進入並關閉，這樣當您開始節拍時，標記就在您身邊，沒有人可以進入您的內部。理想地定位船，以便您能夠在需要時轉向並在下一個迎風航段航行到選定的一側。 如果您面前有一艘船，請立即尋找乾淨的空氣。 他們只會減慢你的速度，當你從前面的船上落入下風向臟空氣中時，你最終將不得不轉向。這裡有一個附帶條件，即大頭針將帶您進入晴朗的空氣，而不是穿過艦隊。有時，更好的選擇是吃土，直到您可以進入清晰的車道或進入清晰的空氣（如果有該選項）。 這完全取決於您面前有多少艘船。 最後記住當標記處重疊在區域時，左舷和右舷不再適用。 視頻示例 1 3條船在一條線上，最好是裡面的船 視頻示例 2 避免被困在船外。 會以淚水結束