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  • Building an IOM | IOM Build Race Tune

    How I chose a design and built my IOM Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

  • Developing the Alioth Boat 2 | IOM Build Race Tune

    Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.

  • Why Build and Alioth | IOM Build Race Tune

    It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

  • Sailing an IOM - Fast | IOM Build Race Tune

    活動前 確定 你的 航海目標 了解你的 賽車規則和戰術 謹慎管理您的投資 船隻維修 向右快速航行 船隻調整和設置 了解您的無線電控制 有效的 船練習 確保使用一致的設置 檢查清單 知道如何 天氣 會幫助你 有用 參考

  • Add the sails | IOM Build Race Tune

    Fitting the sails onto the rig 登入 Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom 在鑽井平台上揚帆 前幾天與我兄弟的一次談話讓我開始思考 IOM 鑽機應該如何工作。我們都曾經在小艇和遊艇上航行。大多數情況下,我們會在部分鑽井平台上航行,其中桅杆的底部由護罩、吊具和滑輪控制。彎道固定在獵犬身上,您可以使用跑步者增加或減少彎道,但是一旦設置好桅杆就相當僵硬。訣竅是讓桅杆在部分鑽機的無支撐部分的獵犬上方為您工作。理想的場景是這樣的。如果你遇到陣風,桅杆的頂部會彎曲,壓平主帆的上部並打開水蛭,這樣船就可以加速進入陣風。風一緩和,桅杆就會伸直,電力就會恢復。我們曾經在一艘船上航行,該船的鑽機平衡完全正確。這意味著您可以在更大的微風中攜帶更多的帆,並提供巨大的競爭優勢。這艘船贏得了許多重要的近海和近海比賽。 然而,IOM 鑽機介於遊艇上的部分鑽機和桅杆鑽機之間,其中前撐和後撐在桅杆頂部和彎道處相遇,因此主帆水蛭控製完全通過調節滑輪進行管理。 當然,您對遊艇還有其他重要的調整,例如主帆腳、坎寧安等,所有這些都必須通過風力範圍進行調整,但在本文中,我只關注桅杆彎曲和對主帆的影響。 IOM 鑽機介於桅頂和部分索具的遊艇之間。 .我們的前桅位於獵犬上方,桅杆頂部有一個後撐。幾何形狀的設置使得預彎曲構建到主梁中,由後撐桿拉直,張力被施加到前帆的luff和leech線中。懸臂旋轉線到甲板的位置確保大部分張力沿著懸臂而不是水蛭線向下傳遞。桅杆彎曲和主帆水蛭形狀在整個桅杆撞錘、吊具耙和後拉索上的張力中得到控制。吊臂水蛭張力由水蛭線控制。 我們想要一個可以稍微充氣的鑽機設置,這樣船就會加速和行駛,而不是後跟和失速。那麼如何才能做到這一點。 如果您閱讀了有關鑽機設置的所有關鍵建議,那麼您可以將護罩張力收緊到足以阻止背風護罩在逆風時變軟。這允許桅杆在抽吸時稍微彎曲以提供加速。如果桅杆太硬,氣流會失速,船不會在噴氣中加速。 開始您的船設置,船指向就好像在奔跑一樣。修剪後撐桿,使桅杆前後伸直。將主帆腳設置為 15 毫米的深度或任何您的滑翔機建議的深度。設置起升器張力,使主帆水蛭略微扭曲,頂部板條位於與主臂平行的外側。檢查兩個陀螺儀以確保桅杆垂直筆直。每個 gybe 上的扭曲應該是相同的。然後像在節拍一樣指向船。 我假設您已經使用量尺或捲尺根據船計劃設置了耙子。 我們的目標是通過調整後撐桿和桅杆柱塞來設置主帆,使頂部板條與吊桿的中心線平行。設置完成後,除了對後撐桿進行 1 毫米調整外,幾乎不需要更改風範圍。在最近與 Brad Gibson 在美國中央公園 MYG 的一次變焦會議上,Brad 談到將後撐調整正負 2 毫米。我不了解你,但在過去,我對後撐的使用稍微激進一些。現在我對設置的精度有了更多的了解,也知道頂級球員的所作所為,我更加小心了。 幸運的是,如果您完成了所有這些工作,您將擁有一個外觀完美的鑽機,如果您沒有過度拉伸護罩,該鑽機將在陣風中為您服務。 網絡上有足夠的關於鑽機設置的信息,您應該能夠在第一時間實現正確的設置,更重要的是,每次航行時都要重新創建該設置。 下面是一些圖片,顯示了 1 毫米變化對 B 鑽機後撐的影響。 從底部開始 從底部開始並處理一組圖片。它們顯示了內置於桅杆中的預彎件,以及長達 5 毫米的附加後撐桿的逐漸影響。您可以看到對浸出液的軟化效果最好。在你自己的船上試試這個,看看你的裝備是什麼樣的。忽略吊臂的設置,因為水蛭太緊,吊臂可以稍微放鬆。下次我嘗試這個時,我會將相機安裝在三腳架上,這樣照片之間的角度就不會改變。明天我會為 A 鑽機拍一組類似的照片。 鑽機設置 - 5mm 對 A 鑽機的影響 只是一個簡短的帖子,以反映我對 A 裝備的使用以及對不同風和斬波條件設置的想法。請看下面的照片。當然,在微風中,風帆的外觀會略有不同。 配備 15 毫米英尺深度和直桅杆的鑽機。設置為波濤洶湧的水。在微風中將失去扭曲以在波浪上加速 圖中顯示瞭如何從直桅杆開始,在 A 型鑽機上增加 5 毫米後撐桿的影響。 超過 10 毫米的後撐導致帆變形 Next Section Weigh and check measure

  • Build the rigs | IOM Build Race Tune

    Asembling the rig Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works 關於鑽機的初步想法 一段時間以來,我一直在考慮購買哪種鑽機。以下是我目前對新船鑽機的想法和決定。 桅杆 據我所知,有 3 個管子和一個開槽設計可供選擇。 Sailsetc groovy 管、Housemartin 管和Pierre Gonnet 管。我目前擁有 Housemartin 翼樑和帆,對它們的性能非常滿意。我去年買了一個 A、B 和 C 鑽機套件,它們都具有競爭力,但是我讀到 PG 桅杆更輕,具有相似的靈活性,並且擁有帆船,知道高處的重量可以在斬波中發揮重要作用,所以我將嘗試一些並比較重量和剛度,看看它們的表現如何。在與 Potter Solutions 交談後,我們決定 15 毫米或更小是 A 鑽機的最佳預彎曲。再多一點,當您用後撐桿取出預彎曲件時,您可以通過壓縮桅杆來輕鬆扭曲梁,並在吊具和獵犬之間引入不受控制的彎曲,並在天氣晴朗時引入過多的張力。我必須承認,我總是在獵犬下方遭受一點點餓死,並想知道這是否是由預彎曲引起的。 繁榮 我選擇了 Sailsetc 的輕型懸臂臂(Easton 箭頭軸 - 2515. 25/64 英寸直徑,千分之 15 英寸壁厚),以前使用過一個,並將使用主臂的桅杆切下部分,並重新使用我當前的鵝頸管和配件.這裡的想法再次是尋找需要最輕配重的船首最輕的部分。 配件 我在 A 鑽機上使用滾子軸承鵝頸管,在 B 和 C 上使用標準鵝頸管。我使用氣動箔式吊具,但它們掛在電線上,因此很容易調節。護罩穿過桅杆前部的一個孔,裡面有一個蝴蝶結塞子。我在所有翼樑上都使用了風帆等坎寧安環,因為我的豪斯馬丁風帆既有拉夫張力又有坎寧安眼。 帆 正如我上面提到的,我用的是豪斯馬丁帆,今年剛買了一套新的 A 套。在競爭方面,我看到 BG 和 Sailboat RC(現任世界冠軍)和他們的模製帆似乎是錦標賽的首選帆,但這可能只是使用它們的水手。謝天謝地,我看到 Emsworth 的成員都有兩個帆,所以將能夠對這三個帆進行很好的比較。當然還有其他幾家帆船製造商,但這些是目前從可用數據中引起我注意的三個世界冠軍品牌,但我是這個遊戲的新手,可能錯過了很多。 什麼是最好的整體包裝 目前的觀察表明 SailboatRC 套餐,因為他們贏得了最後兩個世界賽並主導了其他賽事,但自 2011 年以來,使用 BG 裝備的 Britpop 在數量和成功方面佔據主導地位。誰將在明年的克羅地亞世界賽中佔據主導地位? SailboatRC 是首創的模製風帆,現在擁有久經考驗的設計,誰知道他們還有什麼。我期待著看到其他風帆設計師和建造者如何回應。 懸臂幾何。這一切都在幾何中。 你們中有多少人遇到過在平靜條件下懸臂從一側或另一側彈出,從而無法航行的問題。自從我推出我的第一艘船以來,我就遇到了這個問題。我只是在上週與 Dave Potter 的討論中找到了解決方案。這一切都在幾何中。見下圖。 右邊的圖有兩個圖。 左邊是我去年用的配置。我的水蛭繩被吊具纏住了幾次我認為最好使用繩索將它系在前臂的頭部,但沒有意識到這會影響幾何形狀並導致吊臂以一種或另一種方式踢出風很小或沒有風。 如果您想看到這一點,請將前帆放好,鬆開當前的瀝水線,然後將鬆散的瀝水線系在懸臂的末端。確保繩索足夠長以到達桅杆上的入口點。將luff和浸出線置於一定的張力下。首先將水蛭線的頂部移動到桅杆右側(即船尾)一英寸左右,如圖所示,您應該看到懸臂拉入船的中心線。現在向相反方向移動水蛭線,在桅杆前方,您應該看到小臂盡可能遠離中心線。 與 Dave Potter 交談時,他告訴我,他和 Deve Creed 解決了這個問題,將吊臂拉桿和吊桿線系在自攻螺釘上,從而確保吊桿線和吊桿拉力線在完全相同的點與桅杆相交,從而允許吊臂動臂可在任何方向自由旋轉 我想了一會兒,想出了另一種使用金屬絲和蝴蝶結的解決方案。鋼絲繩和吊臂拉夫眼連接到桅杆內的蝴蝶結上。它們退出桅杆,可以將懸臂拉桿鉤在用鋼絲製成的孔眼上。兩者都在設置正確幾何形狀的同一點進入桅杆。 手指交叉這意味著在平靜的情況下,小臂可以輕鬆地從一側擺動到另一側。如果有效,我會在本週末通知您 更多關於鑽機的想法 設置的關鍵是讓桅杆彎曲與主俯仰曲線相匹配。如果您閱讀 Brad Gibson 撰寫的關於調音的文章並查看對紐約中央公園 MYC 的最新採訪,那麼您將了解他的設置是多麼精確。 1 沒有大量使用 Cunningham 2 他的風帆非常光滑 3 主腳在所有條件下都設置在相同的深度 4 後拉索將僅在條件範圍內調整 2 至 4 毫米。 5 他按照自己的測量開始設置。 這裡的關鍵信息是有一個固定的設置。 BG 已經在這個遊戲中玩了很長時間,並且知道一個快速的精確設置。我們可以通過遵循他網站上 的設置說明或從您航行的任何船的設計師那裡來縮短經驗學習。 Kantun 有一套類似的設置編號和設計師提供的說明,隨船一起交付。其他設計師也做過類似的事情。 請記住,如果當您的船側放時,您會遇到必須通過過多的 Cunningham 去除的主彎道上的硬點,那麼您將需要調整可用的變量以擺脫這些硬點。他們是: 桅杆是直立的 吊具角度(並檢查它們是否對稱,即您的桅杆沒有旋轉) 桅杆 護罩張力 軟化或硬化預彎 如果您仍然遇到問題,請檢查桅杆是否筆直地到達預彎點,您的預彎是漸進的,而不是突然彎曲。 當然,如果你的帆很舊,它們可能已經拉長了,很難達到完美的效果。 我將在下面向您展示我的設置。我將有一個來自 Potter Solutions 的帶有 Housemartin 帆的 PG 鑽機。設置是從你知道的地方。 在這一點上,您可能會覺得我是 BG 粉絲。這是因為他在他的網站上匯總了所有相關的設置信息,這是我在網上旅行中看到的最好的,但與 Kantun 相似。他還擁有最接近 BritPOP 的設計(替代),可用於我所擁有的家庭建造。 對於那些對桅杆重量差異感興趣的人,Housemartin 和 PG 翼梁之間存在 20 克差異。我聽說 Sailsetc sparcome 介於兩者之間。重量分別為 99 和 79 克。我還沒有對剛度進行過測量,但我相信有人做過。他們倆的感覺都很好。 A 鑽機上的預彎為 600 毫米以上 15 毫米,B 鑽機上為 40 毫米,C 鑽機上有一個。 A 和 B 鑽機都帶有清晰的標記,顯示了預彎開始的確切點。在使用船計劃中的尺寸進行標記後,我將桅杆放在一張長桌上。使用sailsetc(見圖)或類似的東西來確保孔在正確的位置。首先,我安裝了一個粉紅色的塊並對齊桅杆,使預彎與桌子完全垂直。然後,我可以鑽前孔並將所有東西對齊,知道每個孔將前後對齊或垂直對齊(在吊具的情況下)。 鵝頸管用強力膠粘在上面,然後在鵝頸管底部鑽孔並用方形的甲板補片材料固定。 吊臂只需要以與上述相同的方式鑽孔。 使用粉紅色鑽塊將預彎與吊臂、護罩、吊具和鵝頸管的孔對齊。 當天的想法 - 完成鑽機 剩下的就是將桅杆切割成合適的長度,安裝到船上,添加後撐桿和懸臂,然後完成護罩的末端。 為了將桅杆切割成合適的長度,我使用了一根插入桅杆孔的假管,並標記了下甲板和上甲板的水平以及我想要鵝頸管和下限帶的位置。它必須高於下甲板水平面不少於 60 毫米,但在替代方案上,它約為 74 毫米。然後我只是從實際桅杆的下限用假桅杆測量到底部並切割。 超級粘合桅杆頭部和腳跟配件(一旦桅杆被切割成合適的長度),所以它們不會移動。然後我將桅杆放在船上,連接起重臂和後撐桿,並按照計劃將桅杆直接安裝到耙子上。之後,我將配件連接到護罩的末端並將索具螺釘固定到船上。鑽機被輕輕拉緊,因此可以安裝主要設備並調整鑽機。 最後一項工作是找到一種方法來阻止桅杆意外旋轉。建議是使用鵝頸管。不幸的是,我使用的鵝頸管不能將桅杆完全鎖定到位,因此我必須找到另一種解決方案。 我切了一英寸的桅杆部分然後 將其切成兩半,然後用兩條粗紮線帶將其粘在桅杆底部,以阻止膠帶部分壓縮。 通過這種方式,我將桅杆鎖定在中央,並在桅杆台階上將其稍微向前推,從而使船獲得更好的平衡。 下面有幾張完成的B鑽機的圖片 請注意,我不再將電纜紮帶用作懸臂樞軸,因為它們一直在斷裂,因此我將其換成了 Sailsetc 吊臂夾,並用板鉤將繩索連接到吊臂上。 我現在處於可以升高和降低小臂的位置。 Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails

  • Marblehead | IOM Build Race Tune

    A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

  • Build the plug | IOM Build Race Tune

    How I built a male plug 構建插頭 過程最好 解釋者 布拉德·吉布森在他的視頻中 建造船體插頭 但 我將在下面介紹一些細微差別: 單擊任何圖片以展開圖像。 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

  • Craigs Setup guide 1 | IOM Build Race Tune

    Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 1) My Thanks to Craig Richards to allow me to copy his guide that he posted on facebook following his win at the 2023 Global Championships at Fleetwood . Mainsheet bridle: The mainsheet bridal is not your friend. It can burn out winches if incorrectly set and if that does not spoil your race then it has sneaky ways of snagging your mainsheet, which it will always do at the bottom mark when you are in the lead! I think I had one of the loosest mainsheet bridle setups at the Globals. I will show detail later of what the bridal looks like with each of the rigs, but its not something I adjust. It stays the same for all rigs. Mine looks like this: The first snag is probably only on the older boats. The bridle eyes were originally a bit larger and not always screwed all the way into the hull. Because they stood slightly proud, the mainsheet could loop around them and snag. This could be fixed by tacking away if lucky, but often the boat will stall head to wind and it is very difficult to recover from quickly. If you don't realise what has happened and continue to sheet in and hope for the best, the winch is stalled and may overheat etc. The fix is to screw them in all the way and fill the recess with epoxy glue. This is about as close as I will ever sheet in. There is never less than about 5mm between the bridle eye and the boom fitting. The starboard bridle line is slack, so this is as high as you can get the bridle eye off the deck. There is almost no vertical mainsheet tension so the winch has very little load and fine adjustments to the sheeting angle are possible without affecting the mainsails leech tension. The port bowsie should be hard against the deck eye, but I mucked with it for demo purposes and have not fixed to my preference yet. With a straight run for the jib sheet, it can get a bit snagged against the mast. Yes, jib fairlead is glued as well. I'll do a section on each rig, but the further forward you move the jib boom sheeting eye the further the jib will go out on the run. I've set mine so that both the main and jib reach 90 degrees at the same time on the runs Sheeting: This is how I run my sheets. It's not optimum from a friction point of view, but there is a tradeoff between reliability and the jib setting slightly differently on port and starboard tacks. If I only use the front jib sheeting deck eye then the jib boom goes slightly further out on the starboard side. It's a small amount, which is reduced by going through both eyes ... at least I think it does. I put the jib sheet through the port bridle deck eye to keep it away from the mast. In light conditions the thin yellow line (0.20mm) gets snagged between the boom gooseneck and the deck. It's only slightly sticky, but enough to stop the jib going out on the runs occasionally. Its not necessary for stronger conditions, but I stick to one way of routing all my sheets just to keep life simple. The A rig: I'll be posting some measurements, so just want to show what my masthead crane looks like as some of them sit a bit proud of the plastic mast insert. I think the standard sail templates have too much luff curve. I have a 'custom' luff curve from Catsails that has about 2mm less mid mast. I run the top of the sail at the bottom of the silver band and the attachment point to a second hole in the mast crane. I think the top of the sail behaves better with this setup. I run the mast gate as far back as possible and never touch it. It stays like this for all rigs. The DF seems to want as much aft rake as possible. So I rake it as far as it will go. I would rather take luff curve out of the front of the sail than bend the mast further. Too much mast bend means you need more vang on the beat, but this can lead to too tight a mainsail leech on the runs Mast Rake: With no Jib Forestay tension I want the mast curve to match the front of the main sail as far as possible. The curve I settled on was to tighten the backstay until the second attachment point from the bottom was just behind the mast (NB, remember I have about 2mm less luff curve than standard). This was easily repeatable without needing rulers etc. I then marked the backstay adjustment lines and always adjust straight to this point. I never change the backstay again except at the very top of A rig I might add a mm or two. The measurement from behind the bow bumper to the front hole in the masthead crane is 1140mm. This may seem further back than the rigging guides, but remember there is no forestay tension at this point. With a flat edge behind the mast, the mast curve is only 3-4mm, which is less than I was expecting.

  • Developing the boat and rig | IOM Build Race Tune

    A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. 世界各地一些國際移民組織所有者的位置 I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.

  • Weigh and check measure | IOM Build Race Tune

    Weighing and check measuring the IOM 稱重並檢查測量船 用帶有所有配件的 A 鑽機給船稱重,就像在甲板上航行一樣 補丁 鬆散地放在 船。 它應該重4公斤 通過課堂規則並檢查測量船。 Setting the boat to float on its lines What you need to know Bring your fully rigged boat up to weight with correctors Float the boat on a calm day on a fish pond, pond, or deep bath and set correctors to put boat on its lines Check measure against class rules The process Weigh and check measure Weight the fully rigged boat dry. Add two equal weight correctors on either side of the fin box at its centre to make up the weight of the boat to 4 kg . Float the boat and check to see it sits on its lines. You may have to adjust the position of the correctors. Once the boat is on its lines, mark and bond the lead corrector in with silicon sealer. I have heard that some people put a small amount of lead in the radio pot so they can make adjustments to the corrector weight if they change a fitting. Pull a copy of the class rules from the HERE Check measure as much as you can. The one measurement you may have difficulty is with the overall length and depth from water line to bottom of fin. This is done in a special tank. Click here for Measurement and Certification Procedure Thought for the day - Getting the most out of correctors Given that we spend a lot of effort getting grams of weight off the foredeck and the mast to reduce pitching moment in a chop, I started thinking about how best to build the correctors. I am looking at roughly 400 gms of lead which I want as close to the centre of the boat fore and aft, but also as low down as possible. I looked at buying lumps of lead but ended up buying lead shot which I could fashion into shape with epoxy. My goal is to make correctors as flat as possible so they sit in the bottom of the boat. The picture shows crudely the difference flat correctors might make. Small I grant but a difference none the less. The top image shows the impact of square lumps of lead at the fin box when the boat is heeled over. The bottom picture show a flattened corrector. The arrows represent the centre of mass for each corrector. The flattened version has a centre of mass lower than the square corrector and in theory when the boat is at an angle the flattened corrector provides more righting moment. All these weight changes I have made, are small. 11gms out of the jib boom, 30gms out of the mast and main boom, 200gms out of the hull of the boat, bigger and lower correctors. It all adds up to more righting moment and less pitching moment. There is easy access to the base of the fin box if you take the winch down. It was easy to lay in two strips of velcro on each side of the hull and place the correctors on this. So now they are fixed but moveable. Once you identify the correct balance point you can fix the correctors in permanently. Moulding the correctors using epoxy and lead shot which you can get off eBay. Means you can shape your correctors anyway you like 設置船漂浮在其線上 你需要做什麼 知道 使用校正器使您完全裝配好的船達到重量 在平靜的一天,將船漂浮在魚塘、池塘或深浴中,並設置校正器以將船放好 根據班級規則檢查措施 過程 稱重和檢查措施 稱重完全裝配好的船幹。 在鰭箱的兩側在其中心添加兩個等重的校正器,以彌補船的重量 到 4 公斤。 使船漂浮並檢查它是否位於其線上。 您可能需要調整校正器的位置。 一旦船在它的線上,用矽密封劑標記並粘合鉛校正器。 我聽說有些人在收音機鍋裡放了少量的鉛,這樣他們在更換配件時可以調整校正器的重量。 從這里 拉一份班級規則的副本 盡可能多地檢查測量。 您可能有困難的一種測量是從吃水線到鰭片底部的總長度和深度。 這是在一個特殊的坦克中完成的。 單擊此處了解測量和認證程序 今日思考 - 充分利用校正器 鑑於我們花了很多精力從前甲板和桅杆上減輕重量,以減少劈砍時的俯仰力矩,我開始考慮如何最好地構建校正器。我正在查看大約 400 克的鉛,我希望它盡可能靠近船的前後中心,但也盡可能低。我考慮購買鉛塊,但最終購買了鉛丸,我可以用環氧樹脂將其塑造成形狀。我的目標是使校正器盡可能平坦,以便它們位於船底。 圖片粗略地顯示了平面校正器可能產生的差異。小我同意,但仍然有所不同。 上圖顯示了當船傾覆時方形鉛塊對鰭箱的影響。底部圖片顯示了一個扁平的校正器。箭頭代表每個校正器的質心。扁平版本的質心低於方形校正器,理論上當船處於一定角度時,扁平校正器提供更多的扶正力矩。 我所做的所有這些改變都很小。起重臂 11 克,桅杆和主臂 30 克,船體 200 克,更大和更低的校正器。這一切加起來就是更多的扶正力矩和更少的俯仰力矩。 如果您取下絞盤,就可以輕鬆接觸到翅片箱的底部。很容易在船體的每一側鋪設兩條魔術貼,然後將校正器放在上面。所以現在它們是固定的,但可以移動。 使用環氧樹脂和鉛丸成型校正器,您可以在 eBay 上購買。意味著你可以隨心所欲地塑造你的校正器 當天的想法 - 安裝校正器。 如果您取下絞盤,就可以輕鬆接觸到翅片箱的底部。很容易在船體的每一側鋪設兩條魔術貼,然後將校正器放在上面。所以現在它們是固定的,但可以移動。 使用環氧樹脂和鉛丸成型校正器,您可以在 eBay 上購買。意味著您可以隨心所欲地塑造校正器。 發布前的最後作業 這艘船是完全裝配好的,所有三個鑽機都是使用我的檢查單上註明的鑽機量尺和啟動設置進行設置的。無線電控制發射器已經過內部檢查,以確保沒有電線接觸到用於板和舵桿的萬向節。任何接觸都會在萬向節上產生非常奇怪的隨機行為。發射器上的無線電設置作為檢查表。 檢查了所有 3 個鑽機和安裝在 B 和 C 鑽機上的校正器的船重量。這些是我從 Sailsetc 購買的 10 克桅杆插件。因為我在 A 鑽機上節省了 20 克,所以我可以在 B 和 C 鑽機上少使用 20 克校正器。 我還在下層甲板的桅杆周圍貼上膠帶,以阻止任何側向運動,並添加修改後的跟部形狀以阻止桅杆旋轉,這樣在使用桅杆發射時,吊具就不會錯位。見下圖。 每艘船的總重量在 4004-6 克之間。 3 甲板補丁已經就位,所以她準備好在星期一開始她的第一次郊遊,這恰好是我的生日。濺船的好時機。 接下來的步驟是製定一個訓練和航行計劃,為國民和任何指標事件建立起來。 下面幾張圖。

  • The final Alioth settings | IOM Build Race Tune

    After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

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