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索具和帆 英國 豪斯馬丁帆 PJ帆 貓帆 帆等 索克帆 隱形帆 石墨帆 打電話給約翰·圖欣厄姆 01943816808，或郵箱 john@graphitecreative.co.uk BG 帆和設計 波特解決方案 克羅地亞 帆船遙控車 新西蘭 動力帆 新西蘭無線電遊艇協會 我們 從這裡開始美國模型遊艇協會

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世界各地一些國際移民組織所有者的位置 I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.

了解您的無線電控制 作為一名玩家，你只想專注於控制可控 - Carli Lloyd 你需要知道的 如何使用發射器菜單 (Flysky i6) 如何在船上佈置電路和元件 操作和設置功能菜單 故障安全模式。 失去對船的信號。 船繞圈航行，床單放鬆。 細節 Flysky i6 設置視頻（14 分鐘） 這是一篇很長的文章，因為它解釋了無線電控制的工作原理。如果您完全了解您的無線電控制，請忽略這篇文章。否則繼續閱讀。 其他發射機品牌使用與本頁類似的術語。 這有多複雜。去年我購買無線電系統時，我有一個發射器 (Flysky i6)，帶有 4 個開關、2 個旋鈕、2 個可在它們之間移動 4 種方式的控件、4 個微調按鈕和一個帶有最初難以理解的導航菜單。很明顯，它是為駕駛飛機或直升機而設計的，但是當它本來可以如此簡單時，卻花了很長時間才弄清楚如何設置 2 通道操作。 將鑽頭（接收器、開關、絞盤、伺服器）放在船上稍微簡單一點，儘管我確實必須學習如何使用烙鐵，這樣我才能用更大的 XT30U 連接器替換接收器式連接器，這些連接器在惡劣的環境中更加堅固. 所以按照RG Winch 指南 ，我的佈局如下。 1600 mA LIPO 電池連接到安裝在前甲板後艙壁上的開關上。開關連接到 RG 絞盤，然後連接到 6 通道接收器的第 3 通道。接收器上的通道 1 為舵機保留。接收器的電源通過通道 3 運行，因此接收器電池插槽是空的。 一旦全部連接好，基本操作就很容易了。我左右移動右手撥動以移動自動居中的方向舵，左手撥動上下移動以控制板料。後者（工作表）切換保持在您放置的位置。到目前為止一切順利，但你如何進行微調。 打開您的發射器和船用電池並進入菜單。但我怎麼聽到你問。 屏幕回亮。片刻後指示燈熄滅。您需要按 ON 使屏幕亮起，然後按住 ON 直到您看到 SYSTEM 和 SETUP。 當您在 Flysky i6 上打開 MENU 時，您有兩個選項，FUNCTION 或 SETUP。我們對 SETUP 感興趣，您可以通過按一次 UP 或 DOWN 鍵進入。有兩頁功能。我只會介紹與航行相關的內容。它們是終點、顯示、子修剪、雙倍率/指數。 END POINTS 允許您設置方向舵運動和極限位置的限制（風和跑步困難） 將方向舵保持在 100%。使用 ON 按鈕而不是 UP 和 DOWN 按鈕調整通道 3（Sheeting）。 UP 和 DOWN 按鈕允許您調整百分比數字以微調片材。將您的船裝好船帆，並在吊桿剛接觸護罩的情況下將帆布調整為順風，然後在吊桿偏離中心線幾毫米的情況下將帆布捲入順風中。一旦快樂保存您的設置，按住取消按鈕保存它們。這將帶您返回上一個菜單。一旦完成，每當您用力纏繞床單時，它總會將吊桿（主臂和副臂）纏繞到同一個位置。 如果您遇到問題，例如像我一樣方向舵沒有返回中心的問題，則 DISPLAY 很有用。三個月來，我的舵有自己的想法。有時它會居中，有時它會向左居中幾度，然後向右居中，但總是以隨機的方式。它使船無法航行，我認為船上有問題。 3 個舵機之後（好吧，我認為它們是問題所在）並且在對 You Tube 進行了一些研究之後，我從發射器上取下背面，發現一根電線未對準並壓在方向舵萬向節上。這導致了問題，快速重新調整永遠解決了這個問題。線索在“顯示”菜單中，您可以清楚地看到方向舵被電線固定在一側或另一側。終於，我有了一條可以直線行駛的船。 微調 副配平讓您可以微調方向舵或床單。它與舵桿下方和操縱桿左側的微調按鈕執行相同的功能。在每次比賽之前，我都將船沿直線航行，並鬆開帆以查看船的軌跡是否筆直。如果沒有，我會微調方向舵直到它出現，然後在比賽期間離開它。使用 ON 按鈕上下移動菜單。請記住，通道 1 是方向舵按鈕，而通道 3 用於工作表控制。 雙倍率/經驗 總之，這允許您改變方向舵的運動範圍，並使轉向范圍中心的轉向不那麼敏感，這有助於避免在緊張情況下轉向過度。您會在左側看到一個帶有 Ch1、rate 和 EXP 的面板，右側有四個帶有一條線的框。使用 ON 按鈕上下移動菜單。使用速率設置限制方向舵運動的範圍。它默認為 100，因此將範圍縮小到適合您的範圍。 EXP 調節轉向的靈敏度。單擊向下按鈕讀取 -100 並查看這對您的方向舵的影響。您應該會發現舵桿的微小移動對舵的影響很小，但是當您將舵桿移向范圍的極限時，舵會轉動得更快。調整 EXP 值以適合您控制船隻的風格。 最後，您可以設置兩次。左上角的開關允許您進行航線設置或直線航行的微調設置。您可以通過拉下左上方的開關來完成此操作，您將看到設置發生變化。嘗試將方向舵 RATE 調整為 30，看看會發生什麼。請記住按住 CANCEL 按鈕幾秒鐘保存設置。 故障保護 如果您的發射器電池電量耗盡或失去信號，您可以將船設置為在放鬆床單的情況下繞圈航行。 在系統菜單上，向下滾動至 RX SETUP 菜單，單擊確定，然後向下滾動至 FAILSAFE 並單擊確定。在通道 1 上，您可以設置方向舵位置。使用頻道 1 屏幕左側的箭頭單擊“確定”。 在 FAILSAFE 模式下，將方向舵操縱桿移動到您想要的位置。 按住 CANCEL 直到聽到嗶聲。 按向下按鈕以同樣的方式進入通道 3 和單帆。 按住取消 直到您聽到嗶聲並重複以保存設置並返回菜單。 您可以通過關閉發射機在水上進行測試，看看會發生什麼。 當您完成所有這些操作後，您就可以開始航行了，您只需在每次下水時稍作微調即可。

來自世界各地的視頻 2021年 2020 年 2 月 27 日至 1 日，國際移民組織第 5 區科珀斯克里斯蒂德克薩斯州帆船賽。 2019年巴西世錦賽 熱 6 艦隊 A 熱 6 艦隊 E 熱 6 艦隊 B 熱 8 艦隊 A 熱 8 艦隊 B 熱 9 艦隊 A 熱 9 艦隊 B 熱 14 艦隊 A Heat 17 艦隊 A Heat 19 艦隊 A 熱 19 艦隊 B 熱 20 艦隊 B 熱 22 艦隊 D 熱 23 艦隊 B 熱火24艦隊A 2019年澳大利亞全國錦標賽 第 1 天第 2 次種子賽 第 4 場 艦隊 第 2 場 艦隊 第 10 場 A 艦隊 第 5 場 艦隊 Race 5 B 車隊 第 3 場 B 車隊 第 13 場 艦隊 2018年澳大利亞陽光海岸帆船賽 第 4 天第 1 場比賽第 2 場 第 4 天第 1 場比賽第 1 場比賽 Race 4 B 車隊 種子賽 1 種子賽2 Race 2 B 艦隊 Day 1 Race 3 D Fleet 昆士蘭州冠軍 第 2 場 艦隊 Race 2 B 艦隊 第 15 場 艦隊 第 18 場 艦隊 2017 荷蘭國際移民組織大師賽 2017年萊比錫杯 2017 澳大利亞國際移民組織國民 Kogarah Bay I OM Worlds 2015 福斯特城 最後一天 2012 年 2 島 RYC 的英國國民 第 1 場比賽 1 A 車隊 2011年世錦賽西卡比 第 18 場 艦隊 Race 23 A Fleet - Peter Stollery 39 和 Brad Gibson 42 之間的精彩比賽 第一天 第 2 天 第 3 天 第 4 天 第 5 天 第 6 天 一點點懷舊

設置船 你需要知道的 用 vang 修剪主帆浸出液 僅使用後撐桿和桅杆撞錘設置節拍和調整主扭轉 如果您在池塘上航行，條件會變化很大。 作為一項規則，我將我的船設置為最輕的條件，但要確保我可以覆蓋主要以控制浸出並在陣風中產生動力 運行檢查清單以進行船隻設置 根據清單檢查無線電設置是否正確 檢查方向舵運動 掃描整艘船以確保一切正常 檢查塞子插入並固定 是否安裝 burgee 觀看 Brad Gibson 42 和 Peter Stollery 39 為 2011 年世界賽設置裝備 細節 如果您查看有關調整 IOM 的幾個視頻和文章（此處 ） ，就會發現人們採用的一致流程似乎有效。 根據船艇計劃用桅杆耙架好您的船，足夠的護罩張力以防止背風護罩在迎風時懸掛鬆動，足夠的後撐拉直桅杆和 15-20 毫米的弦深在船底主要的 然後您就可以開始了。 在主臂剛接觸護罩的情況下將船設置為運行，並在您期望的航向風中保持它。 收緊踢腳帶，直到浸出物扭曲一英寸左右。 在左舷和右舷都這樣做，以確保桅杆居中且筆直。 看看你的一側或另一側是否有更多的扭曲。 設置主帆 設置為近距離牽引並使用後撐桿和桅杆調節主帆扭曲。 目標是使頂部板條與船的中心線平行，並且從後面和背風方向看，從上到下保持一致的公平luff 形狀。 如果您對滑行和節拍之間的主帆浸出張力有問題，請檢查鵝頸管底部是否有一些填料。 2層甲板補丁應該做。 這會改變幾何形狀，因此隨著動臂從節拍到跑步，踢球器會收緊。 檢查從桅杆頂部向下看的桅杆彎曲。 在 A 型鑽機上，桅杆撞錘處應該有輕微的 S 曲線和輕微的反向彎曲。 B鑽機應該有一個公平的曲線，C鑽機也是如此，但程度較小。 如果您按照船隻調整和設置中 的說明進行操作 並註意設置，除了調整更多風或更少風之外，應該沒有什麼可做的。 如果您在樹木環繞的池塘上航行，條件可能會非常多變。 作為一項規則，我將我的船設置為最輕的條件，但要確保我可以覆蓋主帆以控制主帆浸出並保持牢固以產生動力和加速度。 調整臂架 一旦您對主要部分感到滿意，請查看副臂。 您將預先定義的工作表設置，但您需要檢查浸出。 從後面和背風方向看船，水蛭扭曲與主帆平行。 調整頂部升降機以使其如此。 運行所有設置的檢查表，以確保沒有任何不合適的地方。 根據清單檢查無線電設置是否全部正確。 您可能需要根據條件微調圖紙設置。 通常，尋找主噴桿以平坦水面為中心的密布，並隨著風浪的增加將噴桿稍微放開。 檢查舵運動是否正常，最後掃描整艘船以確保一切正常，然後將 burgee 添加到桅杆頂部。 檢查塞子已插入並固定好，您就可以啟動了。 不要相信我的話來設置你的船，看看一些專家。 在這裡 。 The Detail If you review several of the videos and articles on tuning an IOM (HERE ) , there is a consistent process people have adopted which seems to work. Having set up your boat with the mast rake according to the boat plan, enough shroud tension to stop the leeward shroud from hanging loose when beating to windward, enough backstay to straighten the mast and 15 mm of chord depth in the foot of the main You are then ready to start. Set the boat up on a run with the main boom just touching the shrouds and hold it in wind that you expect on the course. Tighten the kicking strap until the leach twists by an inch or so. Do this on both port and starboard to make sure the mast is centred and straight. Look to see if you have more twist on one side or the other. If the mast is straight and the twist is different on each tack then your gooseneck may not be parallel with the mast. Set up the mainsail Set up for close hauled and adjust mainsail twist with the backstay and mast ram. The goal is to have the top batten parallel to the centreline of the boat and a fair luff shape consistent top to bottom when viewed from behind and leeward. If you are having problems with the mainsail leach tension between the run and beat, check that you have some packing under the bottom of the gooseneck. 2 layer of deck patch should do it. This alters the geometry so the kicker tightens as the boom goes out from a beat to a run. If you have to add a little kicker tension to get the leech right it will not hurt you. Check the mast bend looking down from the top of the mast. On an A rig there should be a slight S curve with slight reverse bend at the mast ram. The B rig should have a fair curve as will the C rig but to a lesser extent. If you followed the instructions in Boat Tuning and Setup and noted the settings, there should be very little to do other than adjust for more wind or less wind. If you are sailing on a pond surrounded by trees, conditions will likely be quite variable. As a rule I set my boat up for the lightest conditions but enough kicker to control the mainsail leach and hold it firm in puffs to create power and acceleration. I am also setting the mainsheet post lower than usual so that as the wind increases the boom is pulled down slightly better supporting the leech Adjust the jib Once you are happy with the main, look at the jib. The sheet setting you will have pre defined but you need to check the leach. Looking at the boat from behind and to leeward, see that the leech twist is parallel to the mainsail and has a max twist according to you setup numbers. Adjust the topping lift to match the twist depth specified for your boat. As the wind increases, tighten the jib luff bowsie slightly to keep the leech from going soft. Run through checklist for all your settings to ensure nothing is out of place. Check the radio settings are all correct as per checklist. You may need to micro adjust the sheet setting for the conditions. As a rule, look for close sheeting with the main boom 10mm out on flat water and ease the booms out slightly as the wind and waves increase. Check rudder movement is OK and finally scan the whole boat to make sure all is OK and add the burgee to the top of the mast. Check bung is inserted and secure and you are ready to launch. Once all is set, you need to consider conditions on the water. The base settings will give you a good setup but there are fine tweaks to be made. The fundamentals are, flatter sails with less twist in flat water with deeper sails and more twist in choppy water. With experience you will develop your own tweaks but always start with the base settings. Never change anything by more than a couple of mm. There are extremely fine margins between and outstanding setup and an average one. Don't take my word for setting up your boat, have a look at some of experts. HERE .

開始 你需要知道的 開始是比賽的80% 有基本的考慮，速度，清新的空氣，使用線路偏差，向有利的節拍方向前進 其他注意事項，當前，避開人群，注意新風 關鍵規則要知道，你怎麼迴線 付諸實踐 - 直播視頻 細節 開始基礎 晴朗的空氣、船速、線的右端、向有利的節拍一側航行的能力。 什麼可以更簡單？ 我聽到你說很容易，直到你把另外 18 艘船都放在線上，都試圖做同樣的事情。 那麼，您如何設法每次都能獲得良好的一致開端？ 請記住系列帆船的黃金法則不是贏得每場比賽，而是執行您的計劃並取得一致的結果。 本節底部有一些很棒的視頻，它們展示瞭如何避開人群但贏得比賽。 那麼你從哪裡開始呢？ 檢查線路偏差，就是它，左舷或右舷端。 將此與您在開始前航行 時建立的節拍的哪一側聯繫起來。 例如，如果線路有右舷偏斜，但您想向左行駛，則從迎風端的橄欖球爭球開始，到在晴朗的空氣中稍微向背風處開始，並能夠快速走到球場的有利一側，保持平衡（更強的風，海岸線移動，風彎）。 如果你看與15號船比賽的開始（也有大量的視頻HERE ），你會發現只有4-6船在沖壓開始只有40秒左右後，前方艦隊的成功。 這意味著如果你從人群中開始，你取得良好開端的機會不到三分之一。 當然，右舷端偏差越大，您必須越靠近線的一端。 如果存在端口末端偏差並且您想前往球場的左側，則必須在端口末端。 如果你已經徹底練習了你的起跑動作，那麼你將最大限度地獲得一個好的開始。 您在嘗試更保守的起點時面臨的挑戰是，您將被迫提前進入路線不利的一側。 幾乎不可能在前方有一群船或下風的情況下保持您的車道。 疊加在此之上，任何將您推過或落後或上下的電流。 其他注意事項 非常清楚何時加速，以免早或晚。 你的練習將有很大幫助，你應該能夠判斷你的加速度以最大速度擊中線。 查看航線是否有可能將左舷偏置線變成右舷偏置線的任何風向變化或陣風，或者突然有利於左舷偏置線上的迎風船，反之亦然。 如果頂級競爭對手比您快，請避免從他們附近起步，尤其是當他們要下風時。 能夠在低速模式和高速模式下航行，以保持一條離線的車道。 理想的情況是快速自由地清除，以及高模式以清除背風船。 在一條短線的擁擠開始 - 最好從線中間的間隙開始。 那麼計劃可能是什麼樣的。 從輕微的右舷末端偏置線向下 2/3 處開始。 海岸線附近有風向，所以我會以快速模式航行以到達它並提早轉向以保持在路線的中間左側。 在他的點上，我可以判斷我的想法是對的，並相應地調整計劃。 在繁忙的船隊中，如果我接近港口上的迎風標記，我將在距該標記 6 條或更多船長的位置線或上方錨定。 當然，如果情況迅速變化，計劃可能會被拋到窗外，您將對所看到的做出反應。 但最終接近迎風標記的方法將永遠存在。 關鍵規則 了解各種起始規則 30、30.1、30.3 和 30.4。 30 沒有飄揚的旗幟 - 如果您在開始時越線並且必須回到線後，則會受到處罰。 30.1 I Flag - 1 分鐘規則，您的船必須保持在起跑線或其延伸線之後。 如果超過，您必須繞過線的末端，然後開始。 30.3 國旗。 在最後一分鐘由起跑線和迎風標記形成的三角形中沒有船隻的任何部分。 如果被侵權的船隻被取消資格，但如果重新開始或重新航行則不會。 30.4 黑旗規則 - 船隻在本次起跑和所有隨後的重新開始時，因位於線的三角形和迎風標記內而被取消資格。 請注意可能懸掛/發布的任何旗幟或公告及其含義。 最後 請記住 - 迎風船保持暢通，您不能在線路迎風端的起始標記處取水。 需要注意的一個奇怪規則是，如果一艘船停在一條線上，帆在擺動，則它們必須被視為障礙物，並且船可能會要求你或你在他們身上的水繞過那艘船。 如果您對此規則有任何疑問，請查看這裡的 測驗 29。 其他測驗問題將使您對規則大開眼界。 返回航線時，請遠離其他船隻。 如果您受到處罰，您必須立即駛離船隻並進行調整和嘲諷 不惜一切代價。 將其付諸實踐視頻（單擊帶下劃線的鏈接） 開始 1 右舷偏向，左側當然有利 開始 2 右舷偏斜，左側當然有利 開始 3 端口偏置（目前正在尋找視頻） 開始 4 重端口偏置 開始 5 DF95啟動及統計

我最近在 Zing 航海網站Link Here 上發現了一篇文章，當時我正在研究未來的小艇航海網站 我特別喜歡關注 3 個問題，你應該在賽道上不斷問自己。 你在賽道上的什麼地方，你應該去哪裡？ 這個問題是關於你與你的戰術計劃的關係 成像它只是在開始之後，您處於合理的位置。 問問自己，您是否正在前往課程的有利一側，如果不是，您將如何到達那裡。 如果你在錯誤的方向被擋住了，你如何逃生到右邊。 接近迎風標記時，確保您在方位線上大頭，不要因過度而浪費距離。 在奔跑中，當您繞過吊具標記時要果斷，這樣您才能駛入晴風而不是艦隊後面的死角。 你與艦隊的關係在哪裡？ 這個問題有很多答案，所以這裡有一些場景需要考慮。 如果您要上岸，是否值得留在船隊的右側，這樣您在右舷進入時就可以控制。 在海岸線上，您可能會被永無止境的右舷船隻困住。 當您接近迎風標記時，您是否會進近，以便在區域外的右舷處轉彎，保持先行權。 在最近的一次會議上，我們有一個偏差第一拍，所以你幾乎可以從起跑線的左端開始打下第一個標記。 我沒有從最喜歡的左舷端開始，而是從線的中間開始，這讓我可以自由地先轉向，然後快速駛過航線的中間。 這讓我在艦隊前面，然後我可以自由地隨意使用右舷船的優勢。 那時我只需要關注標記的位置線。 船隊港口末端的船隻不得不等待其他船隻靠攏，許多船隻超標了。 這條線是如此的有偏見，我不必擔心在我身後的船隻前面。 你與風的關係在哪裡？ 在起跑線之外，您的戰術計劃將決定您去哪裡利用任何風彎或當地海岸效應、樹木、灌木等。 事實上，在開始之前，您應該立即查看第 1 次重要抽吸的路線，並評估它是否會提升或支持您。 您需要採取行動來解決這一問題，但請記住上述問題的答案。 如果您將您的思維過程限制在上述範圍內，那麼您將比其他在賽道上飛馳的人具有顯著的優勢。

The Starting Point and references My plan for the boat was to sort the rigging and sails so that I have a reliable package which I can put on the water and race with confidence. The boat was only sailed a few times times by the previous 2 owners since 2016 so there is a lot of work to do. Here is a starting jobs list. Fair top of rudder so it fits flush to the hull. Fit Futaba Servo and new 1000mA Lifo battery Check all the electrics are working smoothly and calibrate winch Replace endless sheet cord and adjust lead approach to drum so there is a direct line with no friction Replace all sheets Replace backstay and jib leech topping lift with wire. Check weigh boat Calibrate sheeting angles Check all mainsail heads are set to just below top band. One or two of the fittings may need replacing as they look a bit dodgy Tune all rigs and calibrate and log settings Test sail and check boat is waterproof Buy more deck patches. The jobs were straight forward and I had loads of spares so no additional cost. If the hull is competitive which I believe it should be then I think an order for new sails will be on the cards as well as a lightweight swing rig and maybe a gismo to control leech tension upwind. For now I will work with what I have and assess whether the investment will be worth while. Looking around on the web I found the following references Marblehead section on the MYA Web site. This provides links to all the relevant Marblehead web sites Pimp my Marblehead by BG on the MYA web site Great information on how to pimp up older designs. More from the man himself on pimping. Here is the web link but have put extracts of the text below because it adds to the jigsaw. Its well worth reading the full article HERE Originally Posted by Brad Gibson on RC Groups.com Weight - Anything with a designed displacement upwards of 5 kg ready to race will struggle in light winds. The current competitive parameters for an all round design live between 4.4 - 4.8 kg with the most recent winning designs sitting in the 4.7- 4.8 range. - Any hull weight with radio and rudder installed ready to sail, less rig and fin/ballast, should not be more that 900 - 950 grams. The better boats live within the 780 - 840g region. - Beam Waterline should be no greater than 160mm. Current designs are as low as 130 -150mm Hull weight is 840 grams, less rig and keel. Overall designed displacement is 4.9kg. - With a newer thin profile stiff fin we go a fraction deeper on the fin and shave 100 grams off the lead. Lighter boat, similar righting moment with less drag. Win win! - The original Bantock rigs are stiff as hell for their weight so very little to do there other than modernise the sail plans to modern ratios if you desire, and replace sails accordingly. The original rigs were set some 85mm off the deck to the lower mast bands, so we follow what works on our IOM's and modern M's in cutting down the goosenecks to get things as low as we can. These last points are more fine tuning but give us a little more from the boat across the wind range. Sailsetc/Bantock swing rig plan How to program an RMG Smartwinch

Getting round the course (Click on a heading) Start 1st Windward leg Windward mark rounding Run Leeward Mark 2nd windward leg Last windward leg Finish After sailing

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