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設置船 你需要知道的 用 vang 修剪主帆浸出液 僅使用後撐桿和桅杆撞錘設置節拍和調整主扭轉 如果您在池塘上航行，條件會變化很大。 作為一項規則，我將我的船設置為最輕的條件，但要確保我可以覆蓋主要以控制浸出並在陣風中產生動力 運行檢查清單以進行船隻設置 根據清單檢查無線電設置是否正確 檢查方向舵運動 掃描整艘船以確保一切正常 檢查塞子插入並固定 是否安裝 burgee 觀看 Brad Gibson 42 和 Peter Stollery 39 為 2011 年世界賽設置裝備 細節 如果您查看有關調整 IOM 的幾個視頻和文章（此處 ） ，就會發現人們採用的一致流程似乎有效。 根據船艇計劃用桅杆耙架好您的船，足夠的護罩張力以防止背風護罩在迎風時懸掛鬆動，足夠的後撐拉直桅杆和 15-20 毫米的弦深在船底主要的 然後您就可以開始了。 在主臂剛接觸護罩的情況下將船設置為運行，並在您期望的航向風中保持它。 收緊踢腳帶，直到浸出物扭曲一英寸左右。 在左舷和右舷都這樣做，以確保桅杆居中且筆直。 看看你的一側或另一側是否有更多的扭曲。 設置主帆 設置為近距離牽引並使用後撐桿和桅杆調節主帆扭曲。 目標是使頂部板條與船的中心線平行，並且從後面和背風方向看，從上到下保持一致的公平luff 形狀。 如果您對滑行和節拍之間的主帆浸出張力有問題，請檢查鵝頸管底部是否有一些填料。 2層甲板補丁應該做。 這會改變幾何形狀，因此隨著動臂從節拍到跑步，踢球器會收緊。 檢查從桅杆頂部向下看的桅杆彎曲。 在 A 型鑽機上，桅杆撞錘處應該有輕微的 S 曲線和輕微的反向彎曲。 B鑽機應該有一個公平的曲線，C鑽機也是如此，但程度較小。 如果您按照船隻調整和設置中 的說明進行操作 並註意設置，除了調整更多風或更少風之外，應該沒有什麼可做的。 如果您在樹木環繞的池塘上航行，條件可能會非常多變。 作為一項規則，我將我的船設置為最輕的條件，但要確保我可以覆蓋主帆以控制主帆浸出並保持牢固以產生動力和加速度。 調整臂架 一旦您對主要部分感到滿意，請查看副臂。 您將預先定義的工作表設置，但您需要檢查浸出。 從後面和背風方向看船，水蛭扭曲與主帆平行。 調整頂部升降機以使其如此。 運行所有設置的檢查表，以確保沒有任何不合適的地方。 根據清單檢查無線電設置是否全部正確。 您可能需要根據條件微調圖紙設置。 通常，尋找主噴桿以平坦水面為中心的密布，並隨著風浪的增加將噴桿稍微放開。 檢查舵運動是否正常，最後掃描整艘船以確保一切正常，然後將 burgee 添加到桅杆頂部。 檢查塞子已插入並固定好，您就可以啟動了。 不要相信我的話來設置你的船，看看一些專家。 在這裡 。 The Detail If you review several of the videos and articles on tuning an IOM (HERE ) , there is a consistent process people have adopted which seems to work. Having set up your boat with the mast rake according to the boat plan, enough shroud tension to stop the leeward shroud from hanging loose when beating to windward, enough backstay to straighten the mast and 15 mm of chord depth in the foot of the main You are then ready to start. Set the boat up on a run with the main boom just touching the shrouds and hold it in wind that you expect on the course. Tighten the kicking strap until the leach twists by an inch or so. Do this on both port and starboard to make sure the mast is centred and straight. Look to see if you have more twist on one side or the other. If the mast is straight and the twist is different on each tack then your gooseneck may not be parallel with the mast. Set up the mainsail Set up for close hauled and adjust mainsail twist with the backstay and mast ram. The goal is to have the top batten parallel to the centreline of the boat and a fair luff shape consistent top to bottom when viewed from behind and leeward. If you are having problems with the mainsail leach tension between the run and beat, check that you have some packing under the bottom of the gooseneck. 2 layer of deck patch should do it. This alters the geometry so the kicker tightens as the boom goes out from a beat to a run. If you have to add a little kicker tension to get the leech right it will not hurt you. Check the mast bend looking down from the top of the mast. On an A rig there should be a slight S curve with slight reverse bend at the mast ram. The B rig should have a fair curve as will the C rig but to a lesser extent. If you followed the instructions in Boat Tuning and Setup and noted the settings, there should be very little to do other than adjust for more wind or less wind. If you are sailing on a pond surrounded by trees, conditions will likely be quite variable. As a rule I set my boat up for the lightest conditions but enough kicker to control the mainsail leach and hold it firm in puffs to create power and acceleration. I am also setting the mainsheet post lower than usual so that as the wind increases the boom is pulled down slightly better supporting the leech Adjust the jib Once you are happy with the main, look at the jib. The sheet setting you will have pre defined but you need to check the leach. Looking at the boat from behind and to leeward, see that the leech twist is parallel to the mainsail and has a max twist according to you setup numbers. Adjust the topping lift to match the twist depth specified for your boat. As the wind increases, tighten the jib luff bowsie slightly to keep the leech from going soft. Run through checklist for all your settings to ensure nothing is out of place. Check the radio settings are all correct as per checklist. You may need to micro adjust the sheet setting for the conditions. As a rule, look for close sheeting with the main boom 10mm out on flat water and ease the booms out slightly as the wind and waves increase. Check rudder movement is OK and finally scan the whole boat to make sure all is OK and add the burgee to the top of the mast. Check bung is inserted and secure and you are ready to launch. Once all is set, you need to consider conditions on the water. The base settings will give you a good setup but there are fine tweaks to be made. The fundamentals are, flatter sails with less twist in flat water with deeper sails and more twist in choppy water. With experience you will develop your own tweaks but always start with the base settings. Never change anything by more than a couple of mm. There are extremely fine margins between and outstanding setup and an average one. Don't take my word for setting up your boat, have a look at some of experts. HERE .

開始 你需要知道的 開始是比賽的80% 有基本的考慮，速度，清新的空氣，使用線路偏差，向有利的節拍方向前進 其他注意事項，當前，避開人群，注意新風 關鍵規則要知道，你怎麼迴線 付諸實踐 - 直播視頻 細節 開始基礎 晴朗的空氣、船速、線的右端、向有利的節拍一側航行的能力。 什麼可以更簡單？ 我聽到你說很容易，直到你把另外 18 艘船都放在線上，都試圖做同樣的事情。 那麼，您如何設法每次都能獲得良好的一致開端？ 請記住系列帆船的黃金法則不是贏得每場比賽，而是執行您的計劃並取得一致的結果。 本節底部有一些很棒的視頻，它們展示瞭如何避開人群但贏得比賽。 那麼你從哪裡開始呢？ 檢查線路偏差，就是它，左舷或右舷端。 將此與您在開始前航行 時建立的節拍的哪一側聯繫起來。 例如，如果線路有右舷偏斜，但您想向左行駛，則從迎風端的橄欖球爭球開始，到在晴朗的空氣中稍微向背風處開始，並能夠快速走到球場的有利一側，保持平衡（更強的風，海岸線移動，風彎）。 如果你看與15號船比賽的開始（也有大量的視頻HERE ），你會發現只有4-6船在沖壓開始只有40秒左右後，前方艦隊的成功。 這意味著如果你從人群中開始，你取得良好開端的機會不到三分之一。 當然，右舷端偏差越大，您必須越靠近線的一端。 如果存在端口末端偏差並且您想前往球場的左側，則必須在端口末端。 如果你已經徹底練習了你的起跑動作，那麼你將最大限度地獲得一個好的開始。 您在嘗試更保守的起點時面臨的挑戰是，您將被迫提前進入路線不利的一側。 幾乎不可能在前方有一群船或下風的情況下保持您的車道。 疊加在此之上，任何將您推過或落後或上下的電流。 其他注意事項 非常清楚何時加速，以免早或晚。 你的練習將有很大幫助，你應該能夠判斷你的加速度以最大速度擊中線。 查看航線是否有可能將左舷偏置線變成右舷偏置線的任何風向變化或陣風，或者突然有利於左舷偏置線上的迎風船，反之亦然。 如果頂級競爭對手比您快，請避免從他們附近起步，尤其是當他們要下風時。 能夠在低速模式和高速模式下航行，以保持一條離線的車道。 理想的情況是快速自由地清除，以及高模式以清除背風船。 在一條短線的擁擠開始 - 最好從線中間的間隙開始。 那麼計劃可能是什麼樣的。 從輕微的右舷末端偏置線向下 2/3 處開始。 海岸線附近有風向，所以我會以快速模式航行以到達它並提早轉向以保持在路線的中間左側。 在他的點上，我可以判斷我的想法是對的，並相應地調整計劃。 在繁忙的船隊中，如果我接近港口上的迎風標記，我將在距該標記 6 條或更多船長的位置線或上方錨定。 當然，如果情況迅速變化，計劃可能會被拋到窗外，您將對所看到的做出反應。 但最終接近迎風標記的方法將永遠存在。 關鍵規則 了解各種起始規則 30、30.1、30.3 和 30.4。 30 沒有飄揚的旗幟 - 如果您在開始時越線並且必須回到線後，則會受到處罰。 30.1 I Flag - 1 分鐘規則，您的船必須保持在起跑線或其延伸線之後。 如果超過，您必須繞過線的末端，然後開始。 30.3 國旗。 在最後一分鐘由起跑線和迎風標記形成的三角形中沒有船隻的任何部分。 如果被侵權的船隻被取消資格，但如果重新開始或重新航行則不會。 30.4 黑旗規則 - 船隻在本次起跑和所有隨後的重新開始時，因位於線的三角形和迎風標記內而被取消資格。 請注意可能懸掛/發布的任何旗幟或公告及其含義。 最後 請記住 - 迎風船保持暢通，您不能在線路迎風端的起始標記處取水。 需要注意的一個奇怪規則是，如果一艘船停在一條線上，帆在擺動，則它們必須被視為障礙物，並且船可能會要求你或你在他們身上的水繞過那艘船。 如果您對此規則有任何疑問，請查看這裡的 測驗 29。 其他測驗問題將使您對規則大開眼界。 返回航線時，請遠離其他船隻。 如果您受到處罰，您必須立即駛離船隻並進行調整和嘲諷 不惜一切代價。 將其付諸實踐視頻（單擊帶下劃線的鏈接） 開始 1 右舷偏向，左側當然有利 開始 2 右舷偏斜，左側當然有利 開始 3 端口偏置（目前正在尋找視頻） 開始 4 重端口偏置 開始 5 DF95啟動及統計

我最近在 Zing 航海網站Link Here 上發現了一篇文章，當時我正在研究未來的小艇航海網站 我特別喜歡關注 3 個問題，你應該在賽道上不斷問自己。 你在賽道上的什麼地方，你應該去哪裡？ 這個問題是關於你與你的戰術計劃的關係 成像它只是在開始之後，您處於合理的位置。 問問自己，您是否正在前往課程的有利一側，如果不是，您將如何到達那裡。 如果你在錯誤的方向被擋住了，你如何逃生到右邊。 接近迎風標記時，確保您在方位線上大頭，不要因過度而浪費距離。 在奔跑中，當您繞過吊具標記時要果斷，這樣您才能駛入晴風而不是艦隊後面的死角。 你與艦隊的關係在哪裡？ 這個問題有很多答案，所以這裡有一些場景需要考慮。 如果您要上岸，是否值得留在船隊的右側，這樣您在右舷進入時就可以控制。 在海岸線上，您可能會被永無止境的右舷船隻困住。 當您接近迎風標記時，您是否會進近，以便在區域外的右舷處轉彎，保持先行權。 在最近的一次會議上，我們有一個偏差第一拍，所以你幾乎可以從起跑線的左端開始打下第一個標記。 我沒有從最喜歡的左舷端開始，而是從線的中間開始，這讓我可以自由地先轉向，然後快速駛過航線的中間。 這讓我在艦隊前面，然後我可以自由地隨意使用右舷船的優勢。 那時我只需要關注標記的位置線。 船隊港口末端的船隻不得不等待其他船隻靠攏，許多船隻超標了。 這條線是如此的有偏見，我不必擔心在我身後的船隻前面。 你與風的關係在哪裡？ 在起跑線之外，您的戰術計劃將決定您去哪裡利用任何風彎或當地海岸效應、樹木、灌木等。 事實上，在開始之前，您應該立即查看第 1 次重要抽吸的路線，並評估它是否會提升或支持您。 您需要採取行動來解決這一問題，但請記住上述問題的答案。 如果您將您的思維過程限制在上述範圍內，那麼您將比其他在賽道上飛馳的人具有顯著的優勢。

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

調整 IOM（無特定順序） 布拉德吉布森變焦會議 中央公園模型遊艇俱樂部 懸臂樞軸教程 帆船遙控車 Kantuns 表和 rc 配置 Sailboat RC 建造鑽機 BG風帆和設計 BG Sails Rig 調校指南 BG風帆和設計 Zvonko Jelacic Kantun 2 指南 帆船遙控車 如何設置你的裝備 伊恩·維克斯 經常問的問題 帆等 索具包 帆等 設置裝備 彼得薩頓戴爾碼頭 美國對 IOM 的調整 阿納科特斯無線電控制水手 風帆修剪 羅傑·斯托里 製作 一個電線鮑西 羅傑·斯托里 布爾吉 羅傑·斯托里 模型遊艇的技術信息 萊斯特吉爾伯特 製作裝備 萊斯特吉爾伯特 調音技巧 JG帆 構建 IOM 鑽機 JG帆 鑽機設置 弗蘭克羅素設計 Rubik 的裝備設置和調整 約翰泰勒，泰勒製造的遊艇 如何調整設拉子 約翰泰勒，泰勒製造的遊艇 預彎討論 國際移民組織論壇 製作裝備 萊斯特吉爾伯特 鑽機調整 西雅圖國際移民組織更新 約翰·鮑爾·西拉 迎風標記舍入 西雅圖國際移民組織更新 約翰·鮑爾 點擊這裡 對於 其他有趣的西雅圖國際移民組織更新 布拉德·吉布森專訪 西雅圖國際移民組織更新。 向下滾動到底部採訪 2012

比賽規則和戰術 “像專業人士一樣學習規則，這樣你就可以像藝術家一樣打破它們。” - 巴勃羅畢加索 你需要知道的 錄製 RYA 賽車規則研討會 2021-2024年新賽車規則的變化 規則手冊和案例研究 為參賽者、裁判和其他賽事官員提供完整的賽車規則資源 測試你的知識 細節 如果你計劃在今年夏天參加比賽，你必須至少對比賽規則有一個初步的了解。例如，左舷讓位於右舷，超車保持暢通，標記空間必須給區域內任何重疊的船隻（距離標記為 4 條船的長度）等。遵守規則，保證您不會讓其他競爭對手感到不安。 當然，對於認真的賽車手來說，規則代表了一個機會，可以用來獲得戰術優勢。例如，當接近迎風標記時，右舷（假設左舷倒圓標記）的最後一次轉彎應至少為區域外 2 條船的長度。這樣，您就擁有靠近標記並必須在該區域內錨定的任何左舷錨船的權利。在他們採取行動之後，他們將沒有任何權利，如果他們導致您偏離自己的路線，他們將受到處罰。 您知道嗎，停在起跑線上的船會成為障礙物，因此如果繞過障礙物，您可以呼叫另一艘船的水。 這只是美國帆船協會規則測驗書應用規則的一個例子。 您最好在開始時、障礙物和標記處清楚地了解規則，因為通過對規則進行對您有利的操作，您會獲得或失去很多。 清楚你如何下冰雹也是明智的。你必須清楚簡潔。規則中有明確的呼叫，例如 23 Room to ack，呼叫抗議（24 抗議 06），船 98 失控，並且有戰術冰雹，例如右舷，保持，重疊，標記房間，不標記房間。關於冰雹的最後一點，請確保它們響亮而清晰，以便所有競爭對手都能聽到，因為它們可能會沿著海岸線蔓延。 為參賽者、裁判和其他賽事官員提供完整的賽車規則資源 RacingRulesofsailing.org 規則書和案例書一起在這裡： https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/racing-rules/Pages/racing-rules-downloads.aspx 無線電航行的世界航行電話簿 本書的目的是為參賽者和比賽官員提供在 RRS 下航行時對比賽規則的認可解釋，包括附錄 E，無線電帆船比賽規則。 https://www.sailing.org/documents/caseandcall/call_book_radio.php 以下是 2020 年舉辦的 RYA 規則研討會的鏈接 比賽規則介紹 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFCuwTuW200 開始 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KanGIVzhym0 迎風的腿 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyOx5TAahw4 標記第 1 部分 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzmP5BMkVgE 運行 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQxeasGGr-s 標記第 2 部分大師班 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTYEgv8WjE 一個由 Sail Canada 高級評委進行的模型遊艇比賽非常有用的網站，涵蓋了 2021-2024 賽車規則的變化和獎勵項目，包括適當路線、標記室和通行權之間的區別，在這裡： https://sites.google.com/site/johnsrcsailingrulesandtactics/home 為了將您的知識付諸實踐，這是我在網上找到的一款很棒的遊戲。 界面有點笨拙，但它會挑戰你的知識。 http://game.finckh.net/indexe.htm 另一個很好的知識測試在這裡 https://www.ussailing.org/competition/rules-officiating/dave-perrys-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes/ 最後 https://www.rcgroups.com/sailboats-59/ 。一個線程是關於規則的（當我看的時候，從頂部向下的第四個線程，由加拿大地方規則大師約翰鮑爾領導。他已經有一段時間沒有擔任法官了，但我認為他現在是 IRSA 規則委員會的成員，通常是很好。有幾次國際裁判戈登戴維斯插話。

The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

第一迎風腿 你需要知道的 執行你的計劃 需要注意什麼 提前計劃好標記四捨五入 你可以撥打什麼電話 細節 執行你的計劃。 好吧，那假設你有一個。 那麼你認為在你的計劃中做什麼？ 我們在“開始前航行”一節中討論了這一點 這裡 嘗試從不同角度觀察航線，並在開始前駕駛您的船並觀看其他船隻時測試您的觀察結果。 通過從岸邊觀察或航行時，找出迎風腿的哪一側是有利的。 一側或另一側的風看起來更強。 是否有障礙物（樹木、建築物、大船）、 這可能會影響整個球場的風。 陣風是如何順著跑道而下的，它們是偏向一側還是另一側，風在它們中是否發生顯著變化以及進入陣風的方向是有利的。 是否有可能導致風彎曲的重要海岸線。 如果可以，與另一艘船一起航行，通過在節拍的相反兩側航行來測試風。 不管你怎麼做，制定一個計劃並遵循它，直到情況發生變化並且有證據表明採取不同的行動方案。 保持在課程的中間，除非有明顯的理由去其他地方並且 觀察當地人，看看他們去了哪裡。 你在第一拍就進球 避開人群和被困 受益於任何風彎 繼續尋找輪班路線 避免由障礙物引起的無風區 盡量減少粘連 當試圖到達路線的有利一側時，通過躲避而不是跟踪來犧牲 1 或 2 艘船，並且可能會被拖到路線的錯誤一側。 為迎風標記方法提前做好計劃。 如果你靠近前部，你的進場有一定的靈活性，如果有利於你可以執行最後一分鐘的左舷進場，但是如果你在人群中，那麼確保你早點在右舷排隊，至少在 4 船區外，您可以在晴朗的空氣中快速航行。 確保您知道您想要運行的哪一側並相應地定位您的船。 在球場上歡呼 在這一點上，值得一提的是，您可以在開始和繞航線航行時發出一些冰雹。 規則規定了下面列出的一些允許的調用 由競爭對手 “24 Room to Tack”在障礙物處或為通行權船 - 可選擇回复您 呼籲抗議 - 24 次抗議 15 船 33 失控（因此成為障礙物） 戰術冰雹 右舷 熬夜 沒有空間 - 在迎風標記處向內釘 重疊 無重疊 標記房間 由委員會 個人召回 一般召回 代碼 U 標誌召回 黑旗召回 觀察者冰雹，例如 59 擊中目標。 45 和 67 之間的聯繫 其他任何事情都令人困惑。 當你所有的競爭對手和旁觀者都在傾聽時，進入爭論是徒勞的。 他們不會為此感謝你。 混淆通話的示例視頻

活動前 確定 你的 航海目標 了解你的 賽車規則和戰術 謹慎管理您的投資 船隻維修 向右快速航行 船隻調整和設置 了解您的無線電控制 有效的 船練習 確保使用一致的設置 檢查清單 知道如何 天氣 會幫助你 有用 參考

Racing results 2023 Events Schedule IOM Hampton Court Charity 1st Lincoln District 2nd to Darin Ballington Chipstead District 3rd to Peter Stollery and Craig Richards Bourneville District Did not attend due to virus Poole District 2nd to Craig Richards Manor Park District 2nd to Chris Harris Birkenhead Veterans 1st Watermead District Cancelled due to lack of entries Coalhouse Fort Open Postponned due to too much water Huntingdon Open 3rd to Colin Goodman and Darin Ballington Poole Open 1st (tied on points with Tony Edwards but better discard) Lincoln Ranking 5th Saturday and 4th on Sunday Chipstead Open 1st Keighley Ranking 4th Saturday, 2nd Sunday Chris Harris won both Fleetwood Nationals 6th Frensham Open 1st. Clean sheet of results Spain Europeans 23rd Woodspring Ranking 4th and 6th Emsworth Open 2nd Eastbourne Open 2nd to Dorian Crease in Cheinz Marblehead Chipstead GAMES 1 1st Gust of 25 knots. Three rivers GAMES 8th Suffered from slipping main leech tension fitting Frensham Open In bed with flu Lincoln Ranking Recovering from flu Guildford GAMES 2nd to James Hadden in Up Guildford GAMES 1st Datchet Ranking 6th Datchet Ranking 11th plagued with winch problems Keighley Nationals 6th. Getting to grips with new boat Three rivers GAMES Cancelled Datchet Ranking DF95 Manor Park TT 2nd to Craig Richards Poole Nationals Retired after leading on day 1 2022 Results IOM Manor Park 2nd (winner Darin Ballington) Chipstead 4th (Winner Peter Stollery) Hampton Court 3rd (winner Darin Ballington, 2nd Peter Stollery) Poole 3rd to Craig Richards and Tony Edwards Nationals 24th Chipstead Joint 1st on points but lost on count back to Dave Green Veterans 2nd to winner Tony Edwards Eastbourne 2nd to winner Ken Binks 2 Islands 4th to winner Rob Wilson Poole Ranking 4th and 7th. Tony Edwards won day one and Craig Richards day 2. W Kirby Ranking 12th and 8th Most of the Northern team were on the water. Chelmsford 2nd to Colin Goodman Emsworth 1st Manor Pk Rank 7th and 13th. Most the top UK sailors racing. Winner - Peter Stollery Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st. Masterclass `Met and Southern District championships 1st 2021 Results Chipstead 15th Alternative A day to forget Veterans 15th Alternative Bourneville 1st Britpop (Midland regional champs) Nationals 37th out of 76 - that what happen when you are last off the line in most of the starts. Ranking 3 19th Ranking 4 3rd Frensham open 1st Ranking 5 21st 3 hours sleep in the camper the night before Ranking 6 23rd Only finished 4 out of 9 races due to broken shroud Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st (Metropolitan and southern regional champs) Current UK ranking 21. Room for improvement.

清單 你需要知道的 如果您想要一個一致的設置並且不想留下任何東西，那麼檢查清單是必不可少的，需要長途跋涉去另一家具樂部開會。 細節 我爸爸是一名航空公司飛行員，他不能不通過幾個檢查單來駕駛飛機。我在小艇的日子裡開始使用它們，主要是為了檢查我是否擁有所有的設備，然後再出發去參加一個帶有重重宿醉的公開會議。 這樣我就永遠不會忘記任何事情。 那些日子。 現在我出於各種原因使用它們。 1 在離開家之前檢查我是否擁有所有設備 2 檢查房車內的所有物品 3 我的船設置的記錄，例如桅杆傾斜度、後撐張力、床單設置等。 航行無線電遊艇有很多變數，當我第一次開始駕駛我的船時，我曾經用翅膀來駕駛它。我會出現，把船放好，讓它看起來正確，然後去航行。然而，在某些日子裡事情並不完全正確，我無法指出哪裡出了問題。一個小學生的錯誤是將 2 號吊臂掛在 1 號吊鉤上。 在美好的日子裡，我開始記錄我的設置並逐漸構建我的清單。如果你把這個推到極致，每個鑽機大約有 24 個數據點。當然，您不需要深入到這種程度的細節，但是您測量的越多，您對船的設置就越有信心。 我的 原來的 清單在這裡。我修改後的清單大大簡化了